paulv1958

Cazador by paulv1958 - OcCre - xebec 1:60

Hi

As promised / threatened  I'm back with the Occre Cazador / Jabeque / Xebec

 

A xebec (/ˈziːbɛk/ or /zᵻˈbɛk/), also spelled zebec, was a Mediterranean sailing ship that was used mostly for trading. It would have a long overhanging bowsprit and aft-set mizzen mast. The term can also refer to a small, fast vessel of the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries, used almost exclusively in the Mediterranean Sea.
Xebecs were similar to galleys used by Algerian corsairs and Barbary pirates having both lateen sails and oars for propulsion. Early xebecs had two masts; later ones three. Xebecs featured a distinctive hull with pronounced overhanging bow and stern,[1] and rarely displaced more than 200 tons, making them slightly smaller and with slightly fewer guns than frigates of the period.

Some victorious xebecs of the Spanish Navy, about 1770

Andaluz, 30 guns (4 x 8 pounders)
Africa, 18 guns (4 pounders)
Atrevido, 20 guns
Aventurero, 30 guns (3 x 8 pounders)
Murciano, 16 guns, 4 pedreros (light rotary guns)
San Antonio

Notable xebecs of the French Navy include four launched in 1750:

Ruse, 160 tons, 18 guns
Serpent, 160 tons burthen, 18 guns
Requin, 260 tons burthen, 24 guns
Indiscret, 260 tons burthen, 24 guns

In the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, a large polacre-xebec carried a square rig on the foremast, lateen sails on the other masts, a bowsprit, and two headsails. The square sail distinguished this form of a xebec from that of a felucca which is equipped solely with lateen sails. The last of the xebecs in use by European navies were fully square-rigged and were termed xebec-frigates.

The British brig-sloop Speedy's (14 guns, 54 men) defeat of the Spanish xebec-frigate El Gamo (32 guns, 319 men) on 6 May 1801 is generally regarded as one of the most remarkable single-ship actions in naval history. It was the foundation of the legendary reputation of the Speedy's commander, Lord Cochrane (later known as the "Sea Wolf" and Admiral Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald, GCB), which has in turn inspired fictional accounts in sea fiction, like Patrick O'Brian's Master and Commander

Sea-going Mediterranean peoples greatly favoured xebecs as corsairs. The corsairs built their xebecs with a narrow floor to achieve a higher speed than their victims, but with a considerable beam in order to enable them to carry an extensive sail-plan. The lateen rig of the xebec allowed the ship to sail close hauled to the wind, something that often give it an advantage in pursuit or escape. The use of oars or sweeps allowed the xebec to approach vessels who were becalmed. When used as corsairs, the xebecs carried a crew of 300 to 400 men and mounted perhaps 16 to 40 guns according to size. In peacetime operations, the xebec could transport merchandise.

The Spanish jabeque had only lateen sails, as portrayed in the Cazador. The Spanish Crown built Cazador in the mid-eighteenth century to fight Algerian corsairs (privateers) in the Mediterranean. Algerian corsairs also used three-lateen-sail xebecs in their raids on Mediterranean trade.

*

Proportions of a vessel of 20 guns

 

feet inches

 

Length 119

Width 31

Hollow 10 8

Back to the master-couple to the gunwale. . 0

Length of the veranda maltresse 7 9

Acculement of the veranda mistress... 4

Slenderness of the bow 14

Quest of the stern 8 3

The bow height 22 6

Height of 1' stern 24 6

Rehabilitation of the bridge in the front 4 1

ID. in the back 5 7

Difference of draught 1

Length of the ceiling smooth 20 8

Height of the smooth of hourdhy, at the top of the

Coronation 7 9

Protrusion of the wings outside the value-

the bow form 16 4

The length of the arrow outside the per-

process of the stern 29

Width of a gunwale coltis 7

Height of the fa? ons from behind 8

ID. before p 4

The center of the main mast is at the back of the real

Middle, of 2 6

Distance from the perpendicular of the stern

 

 

at the center of the mizzenmast 10

Nirvana and Elijah like this

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Having got that done here are the kit details

 

Lenght 860mm

Height 630mm

Width 160mm

 

Scale 1:60

 

The kit normally retails for $600 Aus but I was lucky enough to be in Float A Boat in Ringwood, Victoria Australia , having a browse when I saw the ship for $299. A bargain !!!!

 

Anyway I have had it for 2 years and having 3 kits left ( This kit, The Santa Ana & Jotika Victory) I was leaning towards the Santa ana, but being a single layer hull and a long journey, I decided more practice was needed.

 

Here is the Kit contents,

 

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Okay here is where the confusion sets in

 

Its not Laser Cut ( 0 burn) , its not CNC ( No sawdust or gap), so what is it ??? ( I have no idea) it is very clean and prts fitted like a glove with no sanding ( like laser) .

 

Here are the parts separated from the board and dry assembled.

 

 Prior to cutting and numbering. ( Hard to see parts)

 

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Numbered up ( makes it easier)

 

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All the parts ( very little waist wood left )

 

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A close up of the part cuts ( no sanding) ( BTW its really cheap 3 ply .A bit like Balsa)

 

post-18011-0-93521700-1486723390_thumb.jpg

 

Dry fit ( till tomorrow)

 

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See you shortly.....

 

 

 

 

Elijah, mikiek, Canute and 7 others like this

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Hi Paul, nice looking kit that I've often admired, looking forward to seeing it come together - from your build logs, looks like you're building up quite the resume'!  You were wondering about the cutting method on the kit parts, I believe they are die cut - just like anything else, they can be well done or badly done, in your case, thankfully well done.  It might also have something to do with the thickness (or lack of) the parts.  Have fun, Steve
 

Nirvana, Elijah, donrobinson and 1 other like this

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Tks for likes all.

 

After an overnight dry the bulk heads are all fitted and glued. Next up the main deck.  

 

The deck has a very pronounced convex shape with an upward sweep to the bow. Fitting was quite easy and required no adjustments or sanding. The only difficulty was holding the deck in shape whilst adding the pins to hold the shape and glue. Pinning from middle to bow along the centre and then to the edges solved this.

 

The instructions suggested using the supplied brass nails (pins) for holding the deck and then filing them smooth with the deck after it dries. ( Yeh sure, not gunna happen). Due to the nature of the ply ( close inspection shows it is a balsa like wood with laminated ply surface) the nails just pulled out under the stress of the deck shaping. Map pins were no issue and the flat pin surface held the deck in place. As they do not stick to PVA they pull out easily afterwards.

 

Glued and ready for decking

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The deck is added and pinned in place.

 

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PIns removed. Note the curve of the deck. ( sleek)

 

post-18011-0-21910700-1486988444_thumb.jpg 

 

Next the rear wall was to be planked. ( The same wood is used for the decking. its 1 x 3 Ramin.  This is difffent in width and thickness ti the stuff supplied with AL kits which is .5 x 4mm. )

 

post-18011-0-98637600-1486988446_thumb.jpg

 

The decking strips are nice and clean and finished off.

 

I have decided to go with a 3 butt shift at 9cm ( = 18ft planks at 1:60). The reasoning for this was the deck gratings & mast holes are 6cm apart. With a 3 butt shift of 3/6/9 and an overall deck length of 39cm it all fits nicely. 18ft also seems a reasonable length for the planks.

 

The kit suggests applying the deck planking next, but I have skipped ahead and added the lower supports and will start to shape them before I add the decking finish to avoid accidents.

 

Supports added

 

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I will be back with the planking.

 

Cheers all

 

Paul

 

mikiek, donrobinson, Canute and 3 others like this

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Great build so far. The Cazador is on my to do list after I finish the current build, an aircraft. Question, what do you think about the pre sown sails? I was not that impressed. I think I will sew my own sails.

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Hi TorBogdan.

 

Making sails is a PITA.

 

Getting the right material, decent materiel cutting sheers,having a Good machine with quilting capability etc. ( Luckily the Admiral does), and being able to sew straight  and then they still look toyish, Very hard to produce realistic sails at that size due to the weight to size ratio and the fact they don't hang correctly

 

There are a few thread around and sites with the written how

 

As to the Occre ones ( yep just cut and glued cotton muslin  with sewn lines) and a hoop on the end.

 

The are usable, but  need some cleaning up, staining up, stiffening and threads added etc  I will see when I get to them.

 

If you feel like it go for it... AL Spanish Galleon was the first go at making my own, Lotta work and no where near perfect. For a distance look they are okay but do not bare close scrutiny.   I d rather have fun building than be stressed out over it.

 

Cheers  Paul,

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Glad to see a build of this kit Paul. I was torn between this one and Arrow and went for Arrow. Cazador will be next so lead on!

paulv1958 and Torbogdan like this

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Tks Mike , Torbogdan

 

We will see how it goes, so far so good. nice kit, Not a lot of parts, Info mostly makes sense....

 

Paul

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The deck has now been added to the main deck.
The inst called for the use of contact adhesive, however as I was not in a rush and to allow me move movement, I used good old PVA.
DSC03050.thumb.jpg.f0a21a1f9359206e1a9a055061a878ca.jpg



All went well and after a light sanding and coating of water based sealer the desk came up very nice.


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Next the rear deck was added. This was simpler than main, but has again a pronounced curve that need to be held in place whilst drying.

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Decking was added in the same manner as the main at 9cm lengths with a 3 butt pattern.
 

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The next step called for the adding of supports for the bulwark. These consisted of using some 2 x 5 ramin ( lime wood). This is the same used for the hull planking.

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The came the bulwark instructions. The inst called for the adding of .5mm ramin lining and then attach the bulwark.


1. The bulwark has to be curved at the rear and bent at the front. Whilst the bending should not be an issue ( it was) the curving is severe and the heat would have lead to issues.

Bulwark as supplied and ship shape.
 

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Time to used the patented electric plank bender ( which works brilliantly)

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Result
 

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Next came the removal of all the cannon ports. ( Each is a actual part to be used later, so care must be taken and the parts bagged.
 

DSC03058.thumb.jpg.21942cde7fd7973fb04637b9830afd37.jpg

The bulwarks were then planked with .5 ramin again at a 9cm length and pencil edged. This time a 2 butt pattern was used.

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Here is where the issue occurred. Dampening the wood and heat bending caused the lining to lift. Whilst not a huge issue, it was still a pain to re seat. Lesson learned, do all bending first.
 

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The bulwarks were then lined up as per the inst and nailed and glued in place.DSC03074.thumb.jpg.67c67de3b0b2ecb642bc797ed508b584.jpg

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After drying the nails were removed ( despite Occre still recommending they be cut and filed.......)

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The final result.
 

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Now all I have to do is repeat for the other side !!!!! ( lining lesson learned)

See you soon Paul

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

mikiek, Canute, Torbogdan and 1 other like this

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Okay lesson learned, this time it was all smooth sailing.

Pre bend bulwarks !.

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Line and glue in place. ( Gee they fit nicely)

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Next add the upper deck Bulwarks ( Nice fit without only a little sanding at tabs. ( no bend req on these)

DSC03086.thumb.jpg.16dcfb4ac2ef649be38a37bd5312e76f.jpgDSC03087.thumb.jpg.391fd24b74f385d377936bc61240e5cb.jpgDSC03088.thumb.jpg.5f63e8a0b722df7f0f9b1ad24fda9939.jpg

 

Next was fill in for 4 false cannon ports with backing. ( it does not mention painting them black but....)

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The instructions then suggest applying the final rear veneer, I stupidly stated and then re checked the photos. Yep theY applied this first anD then the rest of the hull planking. In my mind this causes two issues ( and in there instruction photos and box art on close inspection).

1. The inner and outer hull planking become clearly visible as white & brown plank outlines at the rear of the ship and would req staining for even color and this in turn could leach to the rear and not be an exact match.

2. First sanding of the hull is liable to damage the veneer,

Solution stop where I was and apply after hull complete. This then applies a neat end cap
Whilst it may not be ship correct it is neat and clean looks, better, and suits me.

DSC03090.thumb.jpg.ef21fc037e5c0ef4e2bc5db3478d4671.jpg

 

DSC03091.thumb.jpg.5e6af345afa523b837407d9870554933.jpgDSC03096.thumb.jpg.8c490b4d5d7764a0b7f2e4523f057d11.jpg


Okay so that aside, it was time to start the hull planking.

Occre suggest adding the keel after planking and then cut 4mm gap to allow for keel.I decided to add keel and plank up to it. Although more care has to be done for the cutting and shaping of planks, This then allows a neater and closer fitting finish( which I need more practice for the Santa Ana..

One plank added only....

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DSC03094.jpg (44.28 KiB) Viewed 6 times


The ship is now 750mm in length and growing.....

See you after some more planking.... ( I hope)

 

Canute, Jack12477, hof00 and 3 others like this

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et the planking begin!!

As I have the Santa Ana to do next, I figured now was a good time as any to play with planking techniques. I decided to cut planks at mid , Mid +1, Mid -1 bulkheads and shape and bend each. As Occre gave me plenty of planks to play with and a 2 mm thickness, some fun could be had.


NOTE: As per AL & Occre, there is never a mention of a Rabbet line. It became obvious that it was needed to ensure the correct thickness at the rear, bow and at the Gar-board planking. At 2mm the planks consume half the keel. Out with the Dremel and fixed.

For those who have not seen

http://www.boat-building.org/learn-skil ... e-vessels/

The video on he site is worth a vewing.


The only thing I do not like about Occre is that the Keel is Walnut ply, not solid, so any sanding nicks show up. I will stain the keel walnut prior to the hull veneering to fix any marks.

Whilst taking longer the result did not need anywhere as much sanding.

A quick edge clean and general surface smoothing with the Dremel and a wipe down with damp rag revealed the small gaps and dents yet to be filled.

See you on the other side of planking, filling & sanding.
 

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Jack12477, Canute and mikiek like this

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