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Gaetan Bordeleau

74 gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24

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Vossiewulf, have you a thread anywhere elaborating a bit on how you carve those things? I'm trying to carve letters and am having a bit of difficulty.

Sorry for the slight thread drift Gaetan.



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In simplest terms, I get the knife insanely sharp and then for each triangular chip I first cut lines from each triangle point to the center of the triangle so the chips for each side of the triangle can fall away independently, and then I remove most of the waste before making the final cuts. Removing the waste means much less force is needed for the final cuts and the less force used, the greater the accuracy. With chip carving everything has to be dead perfect, one triangle out of shape and it disturbs a pattern and is therefore easy to notice by anyone.


However letter carving isn't usually done with knives, primarily it's done with v-gouges of various sizes. Are you talking about scale lettering for a ship, or full sized for some other purpose? If it's small for a ship I might switch what I just said and recommend a knife.


Also let me see if I can find the photos I took of how I hold a pencil-style knife for precision work. Found it, as you see only my pinky and the knife edge touch the wood, and my ring finger is against the side of the blade and is pressing down into my pinky- the point is to have each finger pressing down on the next one, it makes for a strong and steady support. If you keep your index finger and thumb quiet, you can cut very straight lines using this grip. Or you can carve and do curves by manipulating the blade just with the index finger and thumb- the fewer moving parts and the more constrained their movement, the more accuracy you get.


Not sure if any of that helped, but we need to get back to Gaetan's beautiful ship build :) If you want to discuss it further, please start a thread over in the modeling tools/techniques forum.


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3 things:


Unfortunately, here is what Ron said:
"I hate to disappoint but we don't have a good way to make this for you. Sorry, no quote.''

Vossiewulf, I am sure you will agree: there are sharp knives but there is also extremely sharp knives


May be after Christmas I will write to  a company to see if they would like to produce a good Standard Detail Knife which would be extremely sharp. Actually they do not really have any. I think that PM V11 steel would be a very good choice!

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Wow, that's disappointing, never had him say that before. Did he say why? Maybe a fairly minor change to the design would make it possible for him to make it for you? If he didn't explain, I would ask, I don't know of anyone good who is willing to do custom work like he does, and certainly not with the same quality of steel.


You can also work around his limitations by being willing to grind it down and shape it if needed yourself. That can be done reasonably safely to the temper of the steel by constantly dipping the blade in ice water and never letting it get more than warm under grinding. In one case I changed my mind about what I wanted, and took a blade he made and ground it quite a bit to change it to the new shape.


Let's figure out how to change your design so Ron can make it, and then you might need to invest a bit more time before you can put a handle on it.


And yes, I agree there is sharp and there is super sharp. When chip carving with the Hock knife, I can maintain super sharp for about 15 -30 minutes, after which I use the strop. I only do that a few times before returning to the 1000 grit stone to resharpen because strops, being soft, always start to round over the edge, and even the most subtle change in the bevel of the knife is noticeable to me when I'm carving.

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That will work if Ron won't help, but will be a fair amount of work to process it into what you want. On the up side, PM-V11 steel and you'd definitely feel like it was your personal knife.


Below is a piece of wenge wood planed down with my Lee Valley low-angle smoothing plane with a PM-V11 iron. I don't anticipate having a need to do better than this.

planes testing 5.jpg

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2019, the beginning of the construction inside the model ship.


First part,   planks to support the deck beams, very easy to position; the height in reference with the gun port openings  is the same everywhere.

Followed by 7 inner  frames. 

Still other parts to do before to fix everything.






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As Mark says, nice to see the shipyard back at work again Gaetan.  Very clean work.





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 Installation of reinforcement pieces. The easy way to assure parallelism between each one is to set a spacer.


2 of these have a double use: they will also receive the planking of the false and first deck.


Deck beams of the first deck will rest on a large plank on each side of the boat. Each frame will have 1 notch each side to sit them. The first deck is the one withe the greater span. For this reason, some of the frames will be made in 3 parts with taper notches. This is  a great method to assemble beams. Probably with the weight of the parts only, it would be enough to fix the parts of the beam. I remember the first time I tried it, I was surprise how strong locking this mechanism is able to perform; the same way as a taper sleeve but because the parts are assembled in an arc additional  lateral strengths comes to lock even in a stronger way the assembly.


Depending also from the needs, there will be beams from 1 part, example the first 2  in front. beams made from 2 parts will also be include in the first deck depending of the needs.


With the fabrication of the camera studio stand, it will be easy to insert  a full frame camera inside. One of the advantage is that it is easy to set the camera parallel to the model. I will try to give access as much as possible inside. For this reason, deck  and wall planking will be install only in essential circumstances. In a way there will be as less as possible longitudinal planks but more perpendicularly to the keel.


Parts are temporary fix until all the notches to receive the beams of the first deck are done.


I got an answer from Lee Valley and Veritas for the detail knife. Here is a part of the last paragraph:  ''We also have some other design we are working on. In order to avoid any conflict your product submission will not be reviewed by our designers. SO, I can only hope they can produce a sharp knife with their wood plane blade. While this time, when I will want to have a sharper knife, I will regrind one of those  blade  in a V shape or may be I could do a knife blade from  a half  wood plane blade.







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Glued  most parts except the rail where the deck beams will rest. These rails must be still removable to  be able to cut notches for  the deck beams from the first deck later.

Half frames rest on these rails and to glue the half  frames , a spacer is added under the rails  so that the half frame can be glued somewhere.


Also the setup to take photos is now completed with a new tv. This way, it is very easy to observe very closely construction details photos





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Gaetan, you are a master! What a precise work. So many details. The photos are the icing on the cake. So sharp and clear. Very good!

Congratulations !!!


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Gaetan, that is extremely cool. Also you probably know this, but do you know the artist's trick of looking at their work in a mirror? I do that all the time when making stuff, I take a photo and I mirror it horizontally, I see all sorts of issues once flipped that I didn't see in the basic image. Your camera setup is genius for that.

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