Sunsanvil Posted February 17, 2017 Share #1 Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) Might be a long shot, but has anyone uses General Finishes Dye on basswood, something like their Vintage Cherry? I'm trying to visualize what that would look like. In general, how are their waterbased dyes in terms of grain lifting (they say they include some resin to minimize it, but that implies there will still be some lifting). B Edited February 17, 2017 by Sunsanvil Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Current project: HMS Bounty Launch The Suns Anvil Modelworx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 17, 2017 Share #2 Posted February 17, 2017 You can probably minimize this problem: Treat the surface with an application of 5-10% PVA wood glue in water and let it dry. Sand/scrape the surface and then use the aniline dye. The swelling fibers would be much less with the second . Aniline wood dyes also come as Iso/ethyl alcohol soluble to avoid swelling wood fibers. The cost is that the dye does not penetrate as deeply as water base dye. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted February 17, 2017 Share #3 Posted February 17, 2017 I've used their dyes and stains - very nice product. You can look through my logs for examples. Not sure that I've used their products on basswood, but have used it on a variety of woods. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted February 17, 2017 Share #4 Posted February 17, 2017 A trick from the gunsmithing trade is to simply wet the sanded wood and let it dry. A well dampened rag will do. After it dries, rub down the now raised grain and wet it again. When the wood is smooth after wetting you're done. This works on woods like walnut, maple and cherry. Basswood with its fuzzy grain structure might be another matter. Roger mtaylor, donfarr, DarkAngel and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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