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HMS Pegasus by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 scale


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Return to the blunt end.

Over the past few days I have  turned my attention back to the stern.

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Some of the previously rigged lines now need to have the falls formed before the area gets too crowded.

Mizen Topsail Yard Braces

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I used 1½" line (0.20mm) eye spliced around the Gaff end taken up thro' the brace pendant blocks  and down thro' the lead blocks at the gaff peak.

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Eyebolts are fitted to the top of the Tafferal to take the tackle blocks for the Mizen Topsail braces

The falls pass thro' the outer lead block on the Tafferal, and thro' the fixed block to belay at the Qtr deck rail. 6" single blocks (I used Syren 3/32nd blocks) and 3mm hooks

Vangs

Steel says:

VANGS. The bight is put over the peek-end with an overhand-knot, and the double-blocks spliced in the lower ends are connected by their falls to a single block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the upper part of the quarter-piece on each side. The standing-part makes fast to the becket in the **** of the single-block, and the leading-part leads from the double-block, and belays to a cleat nailed on the taffarel fife-rail, or round the **** of the single-block.

A Pendant line of 3" (0.37mm) is hitched around the centre of the Gaff - I used Morope 0.4mm with 6" blocks (2.38mm) spliced in. Falls of 1½" line (0.20mm)

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Although they don't look it on this photo the pendants are of equal length below the Gaff.

The falls pass thro' the lead block  hooked to the Tafferal to belay. Again  Syren 3/32nd blocks and 3mm hooks were used.

For those using the ffm Vol IV as their rigging reference you should note that the guidance to run the falls of the Mizen Topsail Braces and Vangs thro' the fixed block at the Qtr deck rail may not work with the kit version at least because there is less Tafferal outside of the rails in which to bring the falls in from the outside.  The book references are in relation to the Resolution model which has Quarter Galleries, and more space to work with.

This is not a problem the Vang falls can either be expended around the lower blocks or  hitched to a cleat on the inner face of the Tafferal.

 

Mizen Topmast Backstay

This was fitted a while back but now is a convenient time to secure with the deadeyes. For this I used 2.5mm Boxwood Deadeyes.

To recap:

The kit arrangement shows two topmast backstays set up with deadeyes hooked into eyebolts just forward of the Quarter Badge.

Lees indicates the use of a stool or a deadeye plate bolted to the ships side.

The ffm (Standing rigging plan) indicates a single backstay for which the addition of a small stool fitted at drift rail height aft of the Quarter badge is required.

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I opted for a deadeye plate fixed to the hull forward of the Quarter Badge, a lot less fussy than a mini stool and a little more secure.

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A peek thro' the Quarter badge lights. Looks like someone needs to have a sweep up in the Great Cabin.

 

The lantern

Chuck's little beauty was fixed some time ago, but there remained the supporting braces which have now been fitted.

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B.E.

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Main mast rigging ongoing

Tying up a few more loose ends.

Firstly the Main Topmast and T'gallant backstays need to attached with their deadeyes to the Channel, and secondly the Main sheets which pass outside of the stays, but then pass thro' a fixed block and inboard to belay at a timberhead.

At this point I have one of those 'oh bugger' moments, as I realise I have slipped betwixt two stools (no pun intended) when it came to the backstays.

The kit provides for two Topmast backstays, the ffm only one, and I find I have one too many deadeyes on the channel. Needless to say I have only one backstay hanging from the Topmast head.

Too late to remove all the top hamper to add another backstay in the proper manner, but it was just about possible to thread the line up beneath the stay collars, feed it around the masthead and down to the channel.

I am encouraged by Lees comment that Main Topmasts sometimes carried one more backstay than the Fore topmasts.

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Crisis over and I move on, no real visual impact of this little deception, and only you and me know about it.

My approach is to attach the deadeyes to the backstays, but leave off applying the lanyards until the sheets have been fitted and belayed.

 

Main Sheets

 I had trialled the run of the Main sheets back in November,now is the time to fix them.

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The run of the Main sheets can look awkward because without sails rigged they tend to lie against the Backstays before they lead inboard. For this reason I like to have a degree of slackness in the sheets so that they do not  bind hard against the stays.

That the Channels are sniped towards the aft end on the ffm plans, which throws the backstays a little more inboard may be done to counter this .

Of course the simplest method is to not rig the sheets and tacks on a bare stick model.

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The sheets are a substantial line scaling to 0.56mm ø This is an awkward size in relation to scale line. Syren has 0.45mm and 0.63mm and Morope has 0.4mm 0.6mm

I need also to take into account the tack line which is larger at 0.69mm.

I would prefer to use Syren for this particular line as the synthetic Morope needs to have some tension on it to avoid unnatural looking  kinks.

For these reasons I am using Syren 0.45mm line for the sheets, and 0.63mm for the Tacks, which give a visible difference between the two.

To get a smooth kink free run of the sheet between the sheet block and lead block on the hull I dip the line in very dilute pva, wipe off the excess and put the line under light tension for a while.

The standing end of the sheet is 'false' spliced around an eyebolt  above the aftermost gunport.

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It leads thro' the sheet block from out to in, runs down to a lead block seized just above and aft of the standing part, and runs thro' the fixed block to belay at a timberhead.

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The Main Sheet belay can be seen opposite the gratings.

With the Main sheet belayed I can now secure the T'gallant backstay.

 

Main Brace Falls

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The ffm (18.43) indicates that once the brace line has passed thro' the the fixed block it is belayed to a timberhead some 6 to 8 feet forward to allow the Mizen topsail braces and Vangs to belay aft of the Main brace.

 On the kit model this would place the belay on a timberhead adjacent to the tiller lines.

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I have run the brace falls forward to belay opposite the Mizen mast.

The Main Tack

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Belaying the tack to the forward Range cleat in the waist proved a little tricky, mostly because I added the waist gangboards.

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Just about managed it from the opposite sides with very long tweezers, but there are several risks poking around beneath the Pinnace at this stage.

Ffm Vol 11 para 12.15 indicates an eyebolt for the Main tack fixed in side. - note this is applicable for double tack rigs not the single tacks as used in 6th rates.

I will now move onto the Fore Sheets.

 

B.E.

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The Fore Sheets

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4½" line 0.56mm Syren 0.45mm

Eye spliced to eyebolt below fixed block in hull, 5mm fwd of  sweep port.

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Thro' sheet block at the yard,then aft thro' aft fixed block.

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.......to the range cleat in the waist.

 

The Fore Tacks

TACKS, SINGLE, lead through the block lashed round the outer end of the boomkin on each side, then lead upon the forecastle, and belay round a large cleat upon the cat-head, or to the topsail-sheet-bitts.

Deciding the run of this lead caused me some  trouble and I raised the issue in a separate post.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/15232-run-of-the-fore-tack/

The response to my query was somewhat thin but I have concluded that the tacks should run outside of other rigging lines leading into the Foc'sle.

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On a purely practical basis, with the sail set, the tack line would otherwise be fouled.

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Tack line taken inboard and belayed around top of Head rail.

B.E.

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Stanchions, and miscellaneous finishings

Stanchions.

These run along the Foc'sle and the waist.

Foc'sle

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A passing rope (2½" - 0.30mm) threads thro' the Foc'sle stanchions. Eyebolts at either end of the stanchions in the planksheer and bollard timbers to secure the line.

Waist

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The iron stanchions along the waist are topped by a rough tree rail. I have used a length of 'ebony' boxwood strip.

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Always a fine point to when to fit these delicate pieces, don't want to do it until I am sure no more fiddling in the waist area is required, hope I'm right.

Entry stanchions and Entering ropes.

The stanchions are kit provided in brass etch, but seemed a little too short to me, so I modified them. According to Steel the Entering ropes are of 3" line (0.38mm)

I  initially used Morope 0.40mm. which is closest to scale, knotted at 5mm intervals down to the water level.

On reflection I thought the overhand knots looked too bulky; I retried it using pva blobs to represent the knots, didn't like that either.

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Finally I downsized to Syren 0.3mm line and this suited my eye best.

 

Swinging Studding Booms

I made these a long time ago, there are sets for the Fore and Main Studding sails.

The Fore booms are a problem inasmuch that unlike the Main booms which lie along the Main channels, the Fore Booms have nowhere to lie insitu when not in use.

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When in use the Gooseneck hooks into an eye bolt fixed in the hull just aft of the Bridle port and forward of the Billboards.

The Upper deck seems to be only practical place to store these, or perhaps lashed to the spare topmasts on the Gallows.

At over 30ft in length manoeuvring and fitting these items must have been an awkward exercise when at sea.

The Main booms hook into an iron strap with an eye at the Fore end of the channel and is supported by an iron crutch towards the aft end of the channel.

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Not quite sure how these are secured along the channels but I have taken the view that lashing to a deadeye strop is a reasonable option.

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The Main booms do have various guys rigged to operate, but I have not included these.

B.E.


 

 

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Ensigns.

I have opted for the Red Ensign, and a Union Flag at the Jack staff. There should also be a Commissioning Pennant worn at the Mainmast head, but these very long pennants can be difficult to  get to hang right on a model, and may be best left off, I am undecided at present.

The two references I use for flags are:

Flags for Ship modellers and marine artists by Alec A Purves

Flags at Sea by Timothy Wilson.

For Pegasus the pre 1801 Union flag design is appropriate; for Fly with a career spanning the Act of Union of Great Britain and Ireland, either would be appropriate.

Many depictions of the pre 1801 Ensign, and Jack show quite a broad white diagonal representing the Scottish Saltire

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However, contemporary marine  art does tend to show the Union flag with a much darker blue ground and a much narrower white diagonal.

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This extract is of a painting that hangs above my desk. It is entitled A Two-decker and a Frigate off Harwich  by One of my favourite contemporary marine artists, Charles Brooking, and is my guide for the Pegasus Ensigns.

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This is my preferred design, albeit in rough form.

Making the Ensign

A photo of the Ensign is printed out at the appropriate size to form the pattern. This scales to 57mm x 87mm.

 

To make the Ensign I used Modelspan tissue.

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A piece of Modelspan is taped across a box with a rectangular hole in it.

It is then painted both sides with dilute pva, and dried with a hair dryer.

It is then taped over the photo image of the Ensign and  run thro' the printer.

I allow sufficient extra on the hoist edge to form the hoist thro' which the halyard will be fitted.

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The printed image on Modelspan is a little too faded so it is again taped over a backing piece and is painted over.

At this point I place a sheet of polythene beneath the image to prevent paint bleed sticking the Modelspan to the paper beneath.

To paint the flags I have used Humbrol Acrylic paints, No 60 (Red) No 77(Blue) and No 34 (White)

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Painting both sides of the Ensign completed.

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The Jack was prepared in the same manner, measuring 23.8mm x 36.5mm.

The next stage is to get the flags to hang limply in a natural fashion.

My approach is to steam them and tease them into shape.

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These little hand steamers are just the ticket, beats holding it over the kettle spout.

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A heath Robinson device to hold the Ensign at the correct angle

whilst it is steamed and pulled into shape.

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The Ensign is left to dry and hopefully stick in the arranged position.

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Line is loosely tied around the  flag to assist in shape holding.

The next post will deal with attaching the flags to the staffs.

B.E.

 

 

 

 

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Hoisting the Ensign

This is a schematic of how I attach the Ensign to the Staff.

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Incidentally this is Blue Ensign made for my Victory build, using the tissue/printing method.

I had made the Ensign and Jack Staffs some time back in the build.

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The Ensign is raised.

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The Jack before tweaking...............

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 .........and after.

 

Almost there folks, some tidying up now to do, and a base to make.

This post marks the seven day task of rebuilding this log, I think I've got it all in the correct order.

B.E.

11 March 2017.

 

 

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Merged final installment of the new replacement log.....enjoy!!!  :)  Please be careful around the delete button this time around please, LOL. :)

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Log recovery well done B.E.

and a whole set of excellent photographs..:)

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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B.E.

 

So glad that you were able to bring much of this log back to life. By far on the superlative side of log and works that live here at MSW. Your's is such a delight to follow and especially to learn from indeed.

 

PS: Though Nils - your "SS K" is also such a joy to follow (;-)

 

As always Cheer,

 

Michael

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Thank you Chuck, Nils, and Michael, and to all those  who have re-visited the log and hit the 'like' button multiple times.:)

Scuppers

One of tidy up items to do is the Scuppers for the Manger.

I had much earlier in the build attended to the other six scuppers required along the hull and this is the last one.

These are 'false' scuppers in the sense that they are drilled from outside and do not connect to the scupper outlets in the waterway, a much too fraught exercise to consider.

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The lead flanges are made from thin slivers of aluminium tubing bashed flat on my anvil and painted  with a flat lead grey colour.

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The run of seven scuppers along the hull.

With Pegasus out of her cover I took the opportunity to take some general shots.

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I keep spotting things that require attention or that I have overlooked, I think this process could take a while.

B.E.

 

 

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Absolutely magnificent B.E. !!! Looking forward to seeing her in the stand

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BE, let me add my voice to the loud chorus of people that appreciate all the time you have put into not only posting your very detailed build log -- one of the very best logs ever on MSW -- but also for reposting it twice!  I have to say, you are a saint in being so patient and good hearted about all this.  I have to confess that I don't think that I would do the same one time, let alone twice.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Thank you, Don, Lawrence, Joe, and Mike for your most generous comments, much appreciated.:)

@ Lawrence, served brass wire comes in very handy for a number of tricky little rigging requirements, and Catharpins are one of the best examples.

@ Mike, I didn't repost the log twice,  just in two halves. Fortunately the first half was a straight copy and paste from another forum, and the second half (Masting and Rigging) from my word/photo files, which were in a reasonable order but still took several day to complete and proved the most tiresome. Otherwise I doubt I would have had the heart or inclination to start again.

I now live in fear of the 'delete' button :o

ps: Have you changed your tag name from 'Landlubber Mike?

 
B.E.

 

 

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Out of breath reading the last installment, so much to consider, the only think missing from this rip roaring tale are a couple of gypsies thrown in for spice.  I was devastated to see the issues with the log (seems to be every time that there is an upgrade) and want to say again how appreciative of your time and effort I, and I'm sure everyone, is to keep this jewel of a log alive and kicking.  So much great information, tips and tricks...I love the shot of the great cabin deck, I'm assuming its not accessible at this point though?

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

ps: Have you changed your tag name from 'Landlubber Mike?

 
 

 

Looks like I had to go back in and change the display name from the login tag.  Thanks for pointing that out!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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AHOY BE!!!  Thanks to the hint you made on my log, I realized yours was back up and running.  HOORAY!  It's been said repeatedly, but not enough, that this log is among the Constellation of MSW Stars.  The latest photos looks terrific, but seeing the ensigns go up means that we're nearing the conclusion of Blue Ensign's log.  :(

 

I've had to fly through today because work has me by the gills (though I did find myself gazing at certain details of a 'cephalic feline' nature).  Even my beer time has been severely truncated of late.  But I'm planning on some serious boatyard time this weekend, and will be doing some close observing/admiring here.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

 

PS Thanks for alerting LL Mike to his inadvertent name-change:  I for one am fond of the Double-L Handle!

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Making a Base for Pegasus

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The cradles are cut from some 1/8th Boxwood sheet stuff having used the kit stand as a template.

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For this the beast has to come out.

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Two lengths of  12mm square walnut are slotted to take the cradles.

The little miller is very handy for this.

 

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The basic cradles completed.

My preferred option is for a base where the model sits on stylised Keel Blocks supported by cradles of the minimum profile sufficient to give the model stability.

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The Bohler makes quick work of cutting the keel blocks from 12mm section Walnut, which will be topped by 9mm section blocks on which the keel will sit.

This is not the proper base, just an old drawer front used for the purpose of setting out.

The model sits on a plain oak base which will be contained within a  protective  acrylic  case.

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Setting out the keel blocks.

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The base completed.

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I now need to have the protective case made.

This is not unsubstantial being 780mm long x 640mm high x 330mm wide.

In the meantime I will continue to fuss over the model tweaking and cleaning.

B.E.

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B.E,

 

Nice looking base. If I may be so bold as to offer an opinion? Your case frames should be (IMHO) "minimalist" if you plan on using wood framing; sometimes case frames are too striking (large) and "out of scale with contents within. Subjective on my part - but sharing (:-)

 

PS: Cheers, again on log resurrection/re-build and completion of this brilliant ship. 

I would venture to guess that your extensively well researched and detailed build log along with the 100s of excellent photos could be turned into a book of sorts. This might have been mentioned here before?

 

With respect,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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I very much like that base plate B.E.

 

choosing oak give a nice warm tone, am now looking forward to your casing.....

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Just superb BE you must be very proud!

Anton T

 

Current build

1/78 Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal - kit bashed

1/72 Arleigh Burke class DDG flight iia/iii - Sratch built RC - no log

 

Waiting for further inspiration

STS Leeuwin II 1/56 scratch built (90% completed)

 

Previous builds - completed

1/72 HMAS Brisbane, Airwarfare Destroyer 2014 -Scratch built RC - completed

1/64 HMS Diana 1796 - caldercraft kit - completed

1/75 Friesland 1668- mamoli kit - completed

1/96 HMAS Newcastle FFG 2011- scratch built RC - completed

1/75 Vasa - Billing Boats - completed

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Absolutely magnificent B.E. I don't think I exaggerate to say that this is probably the finest build from a kit that has ever been displayed on MSW. Congratulations.

 

Bob

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B.E,

 

just hit your "like" button too many times (re-visiting) 

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Sweeeeeet!!!!!  I love the look of her in place.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Outstanding B.E. Love the stand/cradle. Looking forward to seeing her finally in her case.

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Thank you Christian, Michael, Nils, Anton, Bob, Steve, Mark, Grant, Tigersteve, and Kurt, and to those who hit the 'like ' button.:)

@ Michael - There won't be any framing around the case, a simple acrylic cover to fit over the base.

                   I guess the re-issued log uninterrupted by comments is a Kindle edition book of  sorts.:D

@ Bob -       Steady on there Bob, there are many builds on here that I rate far higher than mine, your own great models

                   included, but very nice of you to say so, you bring a blush to my cheek. ;)  

                   

@ Kurt -      Nothing finally decided as yet, except it won't be a three masted square rigger. Something like a larger scale smaller 

                   boat is probably favourite, but I need to get Pegasus off my work bench and under cover before I begin.

 

Once again many thanks to those who have followed my Sloop adventure.:)

 

B.E.

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