Jump to content
ctclock

To use full length planks or not. (EDIT BY MOD)

Recommended Posts

ctclock   

As the subject says

 

100ft planks were not available (and still aren't :P ) when the models that most of us build were actually produced in real life

 

Here's my question to the hardcore builders and those with oodles of knowledge. 


Why do most use builders full length planks (as supplied by kit for example) to plank their hulls and not shorter more "scale lenghts"? - (and obviously shown the tree nails etc)

 

This may have been discussed before but I could find no particular reference

 

Would be interesting to hear the opinions/advice

mtaylor, thibaultron and Canute like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeremy,

 

I prefer to use scale length planks and it helps in the shaped areas of your hull.  I have attached a table of plank butts and pictures from my "Fair American" build.

 

Pete

image0065.jpg

image0092.jpg

image0142.jpg

thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanasis   

Beside  wood and time saving, a full length plank can give you  smoothly the curving lines of a hull, rather than a row of small planking parts.

But that depends on everyothers will.
Thx

Canute, mtaylor and thibaultron like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ctclock   

I am really in 2 minds as to the path I want to follow on my current build

 

On the one side, the use of "scale" planks appeals to me and on the other, wanting to make the model look good

 

Pete - I did use the "scale" length planks on the deck - its now the hull I need to do and hence the quandry. And thanks for the guide on butts!

mtaylor, Canute and thibaultron like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gregory   

Mary1.JPG.ce95cff687da384c1f83455338e56e0a.JPG

Here is an example of something I am working on.

 

I think it depends on the model, and the desired effect. 

 

I like a wood finish rather than paint, and with this in mind, using various ( scale? ) plank lengths, creates an interesting look, that might not be as

effective when painting.


 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ctclock   

Thanks Gregory

 

I too am a natural man :) - love the look of natural wood

 

Something tells me that the darker wood for a hull is the way to go. The lighter wood tends to show imperfections too easily

 

My current build has the hull painted which I am not to keen on [its my build :P]

thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, ctclock said:

As the subject says

 

100ft planks were not available (and still aren't :P ) when the models that most of us build were actually produced in real life

 

Why do most use builders full length planks (as supplied by kit for example) to plank their hulls and not shorter more "scale lenghts"? - (and obviously shown the tree nails etc)

 

    I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks.  Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route.

 

    Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends.  This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.

ctclock, grsjax, John Allen and 7 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ctclock   
11 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

    I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks.  Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route.

 

    Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends.  This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.

That makes sense Chuck - thanks for the feedback!

edmay, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wefalck   

I gather using full length planks has the advantage of making it easier to get clean strakes and hence to look neater on a model. Whether this is prototype-fashion is another question in addition to the scale plank length. The problem is to get the butting ends aligned properly. Perhaps the best way is to fit a full length plank and then to cut it into shorter sections before attaching it. This ensures that the planks have exactly the same wiidth at the butt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dafi   
On 17.5.2017 at 5:34 PM, Pete Jaquith said:

Jeremy,

 

I prefer to use scale length planks and it helps in the shaped areas of your hull.  I have attached a table of plank butts and pictures from my "Fair American" build.

 

Pete

image0065.jpg

Very nicely done the curved planks!

Marking the positions of the butts is the best way to do, but be aware, the frames of the kits are usually not in the right positions!

 

You can see on the sketch, that the beams  - and therefore the butts - go through the scuttles. Like this the cargo would go not downwards. The position of the beams are always in front and back of the scuttles, or better saying in real life the scuttles follow the beams underneath.

 

Deck-beams.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

XXXDAn

mtaylor and achilles like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks

Just looked in on this.

For what it's worth, the approach I have taken to this issue is to soften a plank of full length and pin it in place. I let this dry overnight. Then I take it off and cut the pre-bent plank into planks of around 30 scale feet (in the early 19th century on the US east coast they were cutting planks up to 40 ft - this will differ in different locations and different times). To cut the planks I use some little nippers which give the plank butts a very slight shamfer. Clearly when the pieces are butted together they fit perfectly.

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Best wishes all

Don

Sgt Mike, _SalD_ and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its best on a double planked hull to use full length planks on the first layer, This way you get the nice even shape of the hull. Then the second layer with scale planks are easily layed with the right contours. 

Gregory and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planks in real ships were not always a "fixed" length. It varied from ship to ship and was dependent mostly on the length of available timbers. I wouldn't be surprised to find different lengths of planks in the same ship. That said, I always use 120mm length planks in my planking jobs, especially on decks. 120 mm is a very approximate length of planks at almost any scale. Besides, 120 can be divided exactly by 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 which facilitates some calculations when needed. :)

My 2 cents :)

 

riverboat and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19/05/2017 at 9:38 AM, wefalck said:

I gather using full length planks has the advantage of making it easier to get clean strakes and hence to look neater on a model. Whether this is prototype-fashion is another question in addition to the scale plank length. The problem is to get the butting ends aligned properly. Perhaps the best way is to fit a full length plank and then to cut it into shorter sections before attaching it. This ensures that the planks have exactly the same wiidth at the butt.

I agree with this, of course, but why making it extra difficult by cutting the planks, while scoring them would give a safer butt joint and will look exactly the same?

mtaylor likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mickgee   

My 1st wooden ship has long single strips for the 2nd planking.

 

The 2nd ship I used 4 different lengths, staggered.  The longest plank is a scale 10 meters (about 33').  This is on a 1:50 model.

 

So, from the deck on down to the keel, the plank run is every 4 layers, redundant.  I like the look, and the difficult bends were easier too, my opinion.

 

Plus, there are no very short planks to compensate.  I like the look, and the overall planking ordeal went a lot smoother and fluidly than the 'single plank method'.

mtaylor likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I should add to my former post that I do use partial length planks... to save on wood strips.  This has had the advantage that I have never run out of hull planking wood so far.  But I have taken care to have the butt joints only where the planks are full width.

mtaylor likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×