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Nirvana

Bluenose by Nirvana - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

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Well the main cap rail is now installed.

As I mentioned before, the stern became a little to "fat", so some adjustments were needed. But I think I have covered the main gap fairly well.

5a9c126d7867f_caprailadjustment.JPG.1042daa279b0b39c7b42fff8237cfcb4.JPG

She got 3mm wider in total, once painted I think it will be hard to tell.

5a9c1295314a8_sterncaprail.JPG.e7e241506d49019fa70fae64aa0e013d.JPG

With little more white and it will be hard to tell.

 

 

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It was tricky to shape the monkey board at the stern but I was able yo do it without breaking the wood strip.

Here I used a combination of hot water and heat from air gun but also my fingers.

 

Put it in place to dry out and to get the final shape.

5a9c3c2f300e9_monkeyboard.JPG.f323089924f20787ddaeec35f9cbcb9d.JPG

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For awhile I thought "how am I gonna get a nice monkey curve"......

Well I had cut my planks, and trimmed the end. Then it hit me while looking at the whole picture - "I have that curve already"

This time I used the old soaking technique with moisture and let it dry clamped to the stanchions.

The out come was as I expected. 5aa2141644c9c_monkeyboardportandstarboard.JPG.87a98679eb570e31460dc3d76f0536a3.JPG

Next will be sanding - sanding  - painting  - painting  and maybe another layer of paint.

I have to say I really like the Valejo paint, as the paint can be applied in layers without showing signs of being thick.

 

 

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Sorry, for not posting anything lately. The shipyard came to a stand still for some time.

However, every time I go out to the garage I am met by Bluenose asking for attention. After spending the day with the Admiral and Sadie (our oldest dog), I got time with Blue......

The monkey board has been installed and now is the rail time. 

As before the rail has to be altered, the laser cut piece was to small and then I realized that the empty space became the perfect base for a new rail.

5ac02f395db4f_newaftmonkeyrail.thumb.JPG.4a00faa4a47d746673229f2256d5dc70.JPG

 

After cutting out the new piece I saw it's slightly to large, just perfect.

This will help me to create the part I need.

To make it easier on me, I am making this in two parts.

5ac02d3a8614a_Halfmonkeyrail.thumb.JPG.39a69ef1f0fe95f7daf79e5abec6f578.JPG

Before final sanding and shaping I will pre-treat the wood for painting.

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I have had some monkey time,

Sometimes parts aren't matching at all and then once you have a matching one it breaks.

At the very end I got what I wanted, my monkey board and monkey rail in place. 

It took some trial and error in this matter, but again I am please with the outcome.

5acc24e4d6bc5_Monkeysallonboard.thumb.JPG.56fdb5fc599a2190ffcd23f726c93de0.JPG

 

I am to do some final touches with this part before I call it good.

5acc24e9b50cb_moremonkey.thumb.JPG.68b1b994c05dce26b8d56fc4d09180dd.JPG

Forgot to mention but I reduced the rail of the monkey to half the height. The original parts made her look "chunky".

 

Now I am to focus on the Buffalo area.

 

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A quick update,

I am now into the detailing before rigging, with other words - dead eye manufacturing.

I followed the instructions of not gluing or soldering.

Kind of tricky with all loose parts but very rewarding.5ae63cf329e8e_deadeyemanufacturing.JPG.e37e36addddd693ada5f65e7e6c88208.JPG

5ae63cf25aeb7_deadeyemanufacturing2.JPG.6386961d766028ea1f76c2df609444be.JPG

The material is black wire from the build of the Longboat. Unfortunate I ran out before all is made.

Michaels Craft (the big chain) has material for continuation so I will be fine. The black looks better than the brass.

So far I have assembled 12 of the 16 big deadeyes, still have to make the four small ones.

As you see I haven't made any wholes in the chain plates.

Dry-fitting of parts are always good. Gives me a good indication of where adjustments are needed.5ae63cf1928cb_deadeyeinrail.JPG.a52ead8269210f8adeaa5a9cabfc8cfb.JPG5ae63cf0a871c_deadeyedryfitting.JPG.2e4a19b11884c7f6605d8a40015f2034.JPG

In order to get the holes done, I am working on chain-plate at the time.

First getting the length right, then round the bottom off. 

Using clear tape on the plans I lifted the hole patterns.

Before any drilling, I taped the "plates" down using masking tape.

Applied the strip with hole pattern. With an awl and a hammer I transferred the holes before starting drilling.

P1040046.JPG.272a756a7b8d1aa3c50d07be2fcf21ba.JPG

P1040047.JPG.61a3ae02a18f7bddf19ddeb9f26b0798.JPG

This way the drill won't wander of the part.
I am hand drilling the holes.

P1040048.JPG.eea3cf23f708d4b2cd30bba5eb83bccd.JPG

 

 

P1040045.JPG

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So the brass chain-plates were treated with the Brass Black and came out to my liking.

All the plates has the deadeyes installed.

Next is to figure out nails to be installed in the small holes.

5b2703f68d314_Deadeyeready.JPG.1b707edd62ef79ab59907365179d081c.JPG

I also made the block-eyes from the 28 gauge wire.

5b270401f04ac_9bolteyes25sq_mm.JPG.5c8291c0f26debafa113185364be9ffe.JPG

5b2704925ddf1_Blockeyeanddeadeye.JPG.640212e2c1d010f36a14887a61cf27f7.JPG

At this stage I am looking at the plans and instruction regarding the build up of the masts and booms.

There is still a lot of work when it comes to the deck furniture and other parts.

 

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After a long time I am back at the ship yard, pondering the belaying pin situation.

I can't decide whether using wood

817796703_Woodbelayingpin.JPG.d7471ef68dfcfca1c4b03a941c50379b.JPG

 or blackened brass

1482869044_blackenedbelayingpin.JPG.9c46ed53708f107e31ef37cd1b08f284.JPG

or grey painted brass.

552825796_greypaintedbelayingpin.JPG.97064571aea6c52b761d4bee50970412.JPG

So please any feedback will be gratefully appreciated. 

 

 

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you kinda need to weigh out the pros and cons.........the wood ones will always look the part.......but even though blackened,  the brass belaying pins may patina after a time.    the wood ones might be more fragile that the brass ones,  concerning breakage.........but the wood ones will take more kindly to cement better than the brass ones.   there are other things to consider,  but overall,  the looks of the model must take precedence.   then again,  I haven't seen any belaying pins made of wood that I liked.......they always look like the tops of a banister post  ;) 

 

I got some wooden ones supplied in my Thermopylae kit.......that;s exactly what I'm going to use them for ;)   I do notice that you next hole is in line of a bulwark post.........did the Bluenose have pinrails?

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Hi Per, I am catching up as I haven’t been on MSW for a while. Bluenose is looking good! I used the blackened kit pins since this was my first large kit. I think the wood ones look best though they appear a bit short. Difficult to get the correct proportion in small wood parts.

Have a very Merry Christmas.

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Attacking the fife-rail, I want to be able to dry mount as much as possible before, this to reduce any misses that may occur while assembling.

The brittania metal was adjusted to get a less "meaty" figure.  The other legs will be thinned as well.P1040431.JPG.5bc272300e92a6c40f2aadeebd77a918.JPGP1040432.JPG.ed222b4d62f61f16cd11ff4b0d117c83.JPG

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Thank you for the compliment! Bluenose is a great lady to build.
Another thing to keep in mind when it comes to the fife rail, there will be a very tight fit between the legs and the mastcoat part.
I may reduce the outer diameter a little to be able to slide it in afterwards.

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The anchor pads doesn't have any material description, and when looking at the has been provided in the box I found that the brass piece was just right size in thickness and width. After having this painted black or blackened I think it will be just perfect.

I will make indication of nails to hold the pads down. Like they can replaced after wear.

334439584_Pad1.JPG.53bf53e0b1a44188350dd325f1011a94.JPG

Pad.JPG.4f8b4deb2ea34c3ff6db93486190f7ba.JPG

I have no idea if Bluenose in real world had a wood or metal pad. My mind says metal, but I could be wrong.

But considering the wear at this area, metal make sense to me. If anyone else know more, please let me know. 

 

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The fife-rail is a challenge.

Here I made sure all parts had been treated with poly-wipe-on, 

The lower square leg are slightly larger than the plans, but with the "plank" on top and additional parts I think it will turn out fine.

Here 3/4 of the assembly is dry mounted for check up.

Since the parts are all going to be white I am not to worried for slight marginal error.

423394833_fiferail1.thumb.JPG.b5d21b1cc8ff56745c3e6e92fb49282e.JPGfiferail.thumb.JPG.e789ddb613613b3e157b162ea3440004.JPG

 

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a jig for the fife rail?  straighten the legs and all you'd really need to do is make sure the boom rest is aligned properly.  it looks fine.  is the height what the problem is?

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my Bluenose is still in the closet,  along with the other two hull frames.  when I received it from a friend,  it was such a disaster,  I ripped it apart {then came the idea for the Bluenose II and the America}.  so far,  you've given me ideas for the bulwarks and the transom {those areas are non existent on the frames {well,  two of them anyways}.  your forging along slowly.....and that's OK,  'cuz your building a log that I can follow when they finally come out of mothballs ;)    I think your doing a fine job so far........as a mater of fact,  the fife rail is consistent with the one supplied in the Billing's kit.  I can post a picture of the diagram,  if you'd like :) 

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So I got the fife rail together, for awhile I didn't know whether to go with painted or varnished version, I went for the a latter.

1877777918_fiferail2.JPG.45c2d5a1432e741180dbfe0ad83320b7.JPG
Somehow it got a more weathered appearance.

1147018888_fiferail3.JPG.ace1bb94a42b4a767721bb70d59ad926.JPGfiferail4.JPG.ffced80e5556edcb612ce6e8f6a7695b.JPG

At this stage, the "rail" is not glued into place, cleats are to be added to the base legs. This has to happen before the final glue down.

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