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IJN Battleship Mikasa by CDW - 1:200 scale - Plastic - Wave Models


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11 minutes ago, CDW said:

So I don't know too much about cameras and photography, but I've been thinking I would like to have a better setup for backdrop and lighting when I photograph my models. Looking through Amazon, I found this setup, and hoped some of you more experienced photographers out there could give my your opinion of this set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTLT8EG/?coliid=I6GEYPNG6G89G&colid=1T4TM1TOH7YS5&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

I know the backdrop probably exceeds the size of most ship models, but probably isn't too far off for 1:200 scale modern warships, and I would guess it would be better to have more backdrop than not enough. Thoughts?

That doesn't look too bad  - its basically giving you three color change back drops, three brollies/tripods/bulbs,  a good way of changing the light  field - a good dslr and wide to tele zoom would be great  say a  24 - 100mm   would be good.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks for all the kind comments.

No new model photos this time, but I am very near completion now with small details in the works and still waiting for my flags to arrive from England.

 

I ordered and received this display case from a vendor on Amazon. Inside measurements are 33" x 14" x 25". It's much larger than I need for the Mikasa, but when I found it on sale for a mere $99 (w/free shipping), I could not pass it up. it does not come with glass, so now I have it at the glass cutter's shop waiting for the glass to be installed. Total cost for my display case including the glass is $158, so I felt like I got a real bargain. If I find a smaller case more suited for the Mikasa later on, I will just use this larger one for a sailing ship and that should be perfect.

Display Case.jpg

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Thats a nice case  - should display your work superbly.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I use just some normal backdrop paper, it's 120cm by 3000cm so there's extra to spare and cost like 25e and I just drop it down from a chair.

I have 2 LED lights on stands for light and use a mobile phone to take photos. Looks like this.

 

KT8mFpZh.jpg

 

Not a photographer by nature myself aswell so the set had to be cheap and quality of my photos are good enough I think.

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Kop has the right setup, the Amazon is good for a really serious Amateur photographer.  Keep it simple and inexpensive. Only thing I would add is make sure the LED light bulbs are labeled DAYLIGHT and not Cool White, affects the color rendition. BTW I am a amateur photog with experience. 

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Thanks for the photo input. Much appreciated.

I have not purchased anything yet, was just waiting for input just like what you have provided. Would much rather spend less and keep it simple. However, I do need to buy some lighting. Will be sure to watch for and buy something labeled for "daylight". 

What's the idea behind the umbrella-looking devices. Is it used to diffuse the light, similar to placing a piece of tissue paper over my flash? Do I need something like that?

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These are the ones I have. They have a switchable filter for different tones.

Whatever you choose, get ones with rechargable batteries as the portable LED eat batteries in no time.

And you don't need the umbrella thingies they are used for flash afaik.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yongnuo-YN1200-LED-5500K-Video-Light-Lamp-for-Canon-Nikon-Pentax-Olympus-Cameras/382055427521?hash=item58f4472dc1:m:mIV9Br_dMHa3OTHZeY7L4ZQ:rk:15:pf:0

Edited by Koppalakki
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I use a looooong  rollup window shade in a setup like Kop is using; for lighting I use a goose neck type lamp with a 100 watt daylight rated LED.  For reflectors you can use a large piece of cardboard covered in standard kitchen aluminum foil (don't make it too smooth a little crinkled is good) In my case the window shade is attached to brackets attached to the floor joists in my cellar .  Kop is using background paper instead of a window shade, either will work. Use a white or very light grey shade.

 

Yes, those umbrellas are reflector/diffusers.  The tissue over the flash cuts the intensity.  With Kop's setup you can control intensity by just moving the lights or using a lower watt bulb. Two lights eliminate shadows. 

 

The reason for daylight LED is so you don't have to adjust the white balance on your camera/phone which defaults to daylight. Indoor lighting, called tungsten, is rated at 3200 degrees Kelvin, daylight is 5600-5800 degrees Kelvin. If you use  ordinary indoor lightbulbs (tungsten) without adjusting the white balance the photos taake on a yellow or amber cast.  Just look in the lighting section of Lowes or Home Depot for the LED bulbs, check the rating on the package. They are the standard "incandesent" replacement bulb  .

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Kop and I cross posted. His lights are rated at 5500K aka 5500 degrees Kelvin, in other words daylight. 

 

I forgot to mention "tungsten" light is 3200-3400 Kelvin

Edited by Jack12477
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Lots of good advice there from both Kop and Jack,   photography is one of those hobbies that tend to leave your pocket rather empty if you let it.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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These are sections of the catwalks, provided in the Pontos update set. Each side of the ship gets seven catwalk sections to finish a side.

These are the last three I assembled and are now ready to be attached to the ship, completing the tedious catwalk assemblies.

 

Once these are installed, along with the torpedo net boom assemblies, it becomes more obvious why I decided early on that these assemblies must be among the last assemblies installed to finish the ship. Once they are added along with the props, handling the model becomes much more difficult without inadvertently knocking something off and possibly losing it.

 

At this juncture, my mind is made up to go ahead and install the extended torpedo nets and booms. I thought maybe I would not, but have changed my mind. I was concerned the nets may easily be broken off if the ship was handled, but I now believe the boom assemblies are sufficiently engineered to support the extended nets. Hope I'm right, we shall soon see.

DSCN1875.JPG

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If they do prove to be too fragile in the extended position then it should be fairly easy to convert them to the stowed configuration. (?) Either way it is going to be impressive.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Every time I that I think this ship can't get more impressive............ It does!

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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I am Amazed at how you are bringing her to life  - Excellent work.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I'm trying to figure out how I will attach the all torpedo net booms so that they hang level. It seems I need to devise some type of jig to keep them all uniform. The booms attach to the hull by means of a hook/swivel at their base point against the hull, then by cables at the top that serve to "adjust" their level. However, the cables are not functionally adjustable, rather the adjustment takes place when they are glued to their attachment point on the hull. It seems to me that what I need is a strip of some material (probably wood) that runs parallel to the length of the hull at the elevation/height needed to attach the torpedo net.

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great looking model CDW!    the cat walks really dress up the sides of the hull :)   

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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This is an absolutely stunning build. I have been out of the Hobby for years, but you got me inspired to get back into it. I have this kit with the Pontos set waiting to be built!  Thank You for this inspiration. I just wish there were more of these early ships in the same scale, ( that were not paper )!!

 

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Hey CD,

 

Its amazing all the goo gahs and foofarahs available to dress up a plastic model, man times they are a changing. 

I'm always impressed with the artistic and imaginative prowess of all the plastic and card builders on this site.

 

Beautiful work I believe your doll is almost ready for a walk down the red carpet.:cheers:

 

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Thanks again for all the positive and encouraging comments. 

As for the photo backdrop and lighting, no purchase has been made as of yet, but I am inclined to go the route described by Dubz and others who suggested a separate, improved backdrop with LED lighting as required or even natural light outdoors. I guess I am too impatient and lazy to wait for daylight hours and /or good weather to photo my models by depending upon natural light alone.

My work on the torpedo net continues as I look for appropriate material to create the net. I'm just not sold on using the photo etch net in it's entirety as it comes from the Pontos set. On the other hand, my experiments for a suitable material to replace the photo etch has not yielded the results I want yet. My search continues.

I did acquire a set of IJN battle flags from this company:

http://becc.co.uk

I like what I received from them. 

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Take care with those red-carpet photos, as I have a sneaking suspicion that certain persons are drooling over the prospect of featuring this model on the MSW Facebook page! 

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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well deserved too...I might add  ;) 

Edited by popeye the sailor

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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On 11/17/2018 at 4:33 PM, src said:

One question, how would the ships boats be deployed? it appears if they rotated the davits together the boat would hit one or the other?

Sam

I wish I knew that answer. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will help us solve this mystery. 

I stared, looked, and wondered the same. How the heck do they get these big boats off the ship?

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Whaat?? I can't hit the "like" button for that! But then again, people have been waiting for 12 years for me to finish Fly, so I guess I can't complain. 

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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