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IJN Battleship Mikasa by CDW - 1:200 scale - Plastic - Wave Models


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Great having you back at the Epic scale.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Glad to have you on board, OC. 

With this Mikasa model, I am hoping to tune up for the next big project coming up. I need to decide between these...cast a vote if you wish:

1:250 Woody Joe Akagi

1:250 Woody Joe Yamato

1:250 Arri Yamato with Very Fire update set

1:200 Trumpeter Iowa with two huge Pontos Update sets. One is the detail up update set with the teak deck, and the guns update set.

1:200 Trumpeter Bismarck with full update sets.

All these big models are sitting in my closet, waiting to be built. 

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Yamato, hands down!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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That’s going to be one of my upcoming projects (eventually).  I bought the Anatomy of the Ship for the Yamato.  I’d like to build in 1:150 or 1:200 scale.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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7 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

That’s going to be one of my upcoming projects (eventually).  I bought the Anatomy of the Ship for the Yamato.  I’d like to build in 1:150 or 1:200 scale.

I would like a 1:200 scale Yamato as well. But I am hesitant to shell out $500+ for the antiquated Nichimo kit that will require another large investment in aftermarket to do it right. I keep hoping that Trumpeter or someone will come out with a newly tooled 1:200 Yamato. Seems to me there would be a market for it.

 

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I vote for the bird farm - Akagi. A changeup from all the gun toters.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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This is where I left off and where I begin, again. Gun port doors. Builder has the option of posing the doors either opened or closed. I'm going to have to carefully examine the locations of the several torpedo net booms that line each side of the ship so that installation of the doors (open doors in my case) don't interfere with the installation of the boom hanging hardware.

DSCN1611.JPG

DSCN1615.JPG

Edited by CDW
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36 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

So you are going for the grey hull and superstructures as it is painted today. 

 

Yves

I am using black-gray for the hull color. I never use straight black. The flash on the camera lightens it up WAY more than it appears in person. This is more how it actually looks:

DSCN1613.JPG

DSCN1614.JPG

Edited by CDW
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CDW, try placing a single layer of Kleenex (brand or any similar brand) tissue over the built-in flash when you take the pictures. If one layer still is too bright then add another layer.   The tissue will diffuse the light, make it softer and help keep from "washing out the color" in the extreme close-ups.  You'll have to experiment with the number of layers of tissue until you get what you want.  It's an old photographers trick.

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I didn't know you had this project in the works!   you gotten off to a very nice start so far :)   glad to see your continuing the build.......very interested in following along  :) 

 

BTW......my vote is for the Iowa.........I'm a sucker for a gorgeous battleship  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

I didn't know you had this project in the works!   you gotten off to a very nice start so far :)   glad to see your continuing the build.......very interested in following along  :) 

 

BTW......my vote is for the Iowa.........I'm a sucker for a gorgeous battleship  ;) 

Thanks for the kind comments. I should have mentioned, I also have the 1:200 USS Hornet to add to the mix. 

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Much better with the flash trick, back in my days we used to experiment with all sorts of flash diffusers, anything we could find around the house realy.

 

Anyway great progress  - see your at the the captains walkway.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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On 8/10/2018 at 10:05 PM, CDW said:

Following Jack's advice, I took the last two photos with a piece of tissue covering the flash. The other pictures are taken without a flash, low light.

That worked well, Jack! Thanks for the tip.

That worked well.  You can play with the light intensity just by adding or removing layers of tissue.    Nice work on the boat and painting.

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look'in very nice CDW :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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5 hours ago, CDW said:

It's Vallejo black-gray paint.

You might get a problem if it is applied on bare brass ... looks very crisp though, can't beat an airbrush at these details

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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7 hours ago, cog said:

You might get a problem if it is applied on bare brass ... looks very crisp though, can't beat an airbrush at these details

To avoid problems with painted photo etch, the PE must be prepared sufficiently to give the surface something where the paint can "bite". 

I first place all my photo etch sheets into a warm sonic cleaner using a small amount of Dawn dish washing detergent and leave to clean for about five minutes. I then thoroughly rinse. Next, I place the sheets in a diluted bath of vinegar for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly again. I place the sheets on paper towels to dry.

When the PE sheets are dry, all the oils and glossiness are gone. Paint can get a bite into the metal when applied. Failure to do this can and will lead to problems with paint adhering to the PE regardless of whether it's primed or not. Primer is used primarily to fill minor surface irregularities (which photo etch does not have) and to provide a surface that finish paint can bite. There are no qualities inherent in model primers I am aware of that give a better bite to photo etch in and of themselves. In automotive body applications, we used "self etching" primers on metal bodies before finish paint. This primer actually causes the bite into the metal all on it's own...self etching. But those types of primer are far too harsh for modeling purposes and besides, many modelers would kill themselves using it for not having appropriate respirators/ventilation.  

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Good info on your PE prep. Need the vinegar bath to really clean and etch the brass.  👍

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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