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La Renommée by JOUFF - 1/48 - French Frigate - by Patrick JOUFFRIN


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Beautifully done, Patrick.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi Gentlemen !

Here is a project in the project.

To vary the pleasures a little, I think to make a small plate with the name of the ship and ... mine! I explain all that to you ...
Many years ago, I had graduated where my name was written in a very nice way, especially with both "f". I always "flashed" on this writing so I was inspired to rework with the computer and use it. Here is a "screen" view with left the extract that interests me and my version right:

 plaque10.png


It remains to finalize the project with the name of the ship, a small anchor to decorate and here is my future plate:

plaque13.jpg


I will try to achieve it inlaid fashion. For that, as it looks like at Ecole Boulle, I make a "package" with a pear tree (1mm), an ebony plate (1mm) surrounded by two brass plate (0.5mm). All these plates are glued together slightly on the periphery (on 1mm). Brass should prevent wood, especially ebony, from bursting during sawing:

plaque12.jpg


I cover my drawing with strips of tape to preserve it, always when sawing:

plaque14.jpg


I'm going to saw everything by hand: I had a PROXXON saw but I quickly got rid of it because I "feel" things better by using my hands, even if it is not as fast. The "Bocfil" will be equipped with super-thin blade, both in blade thickness and in cutting thickness:

plaque11.jpg


plaque15.jpg


I was going to forget: the plate will be 15cm x 8cm:

plaque19.jpg


To introduce the blade, I have to drill 0.4mm, below it does not pass:

plaque16.jpg


plaque10.jpg


And here we go, here are my very first pieces:

plaque17.jpg


plaque20.jpg


As there will be a lot, and very small, I requisitioned a box to arrange everything as you go, just to find me and not to lose anything:

plaque18.jpg


It advances, slowly certainly, but surely:

plaque22.jpg


After about thirteen hours of work, spread over two days, about 25 broken blades, here are all the pieces cut and arranged:

plaque23.jpg


I can dismantle the "package". In the end, I will be able to make two plates. One in pear tree (with brass lettering):

plaque21.jpg


and one in brass (with an ebony lettering):

plaque25.jpg


plaque28.jpg


With the second brass plate I will make a small plaque to my name, as it is:

plaque29.jpg


The ebony plate is unusable: it broke out in several places:

plaque24.jpg


Before continuing, I rectify some small defects on the brass plate. Really almost insignificantly:

plaque26.jpg


I stick my brass plate on a support - brass - also (Super-glue "GEL"):

plaque30.jpg

It remains for me to stick my ebony pieces. I use Super-glue "UNIVERSAL" this time: it insinuates itself better in the interstices:

plaque31.jpg


Taking advantage that the glue is not dry yet (we have a few seconds), I sprinkle ebony dust that I had put aside: it will fill any small interstices remaining. I know, it's not very pretty but ... patience:

plaque32.jpg


Four hours later, it's over: the pieces are glued, the whole plate is sanded, a little "Polish" and here is the result:

plaque33.jpg

To complete it all, a small border with a brass profile:

plaque27.jpg


Voila, I hope that my cut "Jouffrin laser" you liked!

I will continue with the second plate - in pear and brass. Photos as soon as it's over ...

Patrick

 

Edited by JOUFF
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Fantastic work Patrick

 

Regards

Paul 

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

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Hello gentlemen and thank you !

Contrary to what I said, I did not go back to working on La Renommée but I continued on the plate ...

I was not entirely satisfied : the drawing seemed a little bland, banal in its design. So I decided to redo with a
more worked drawing, but the problem is that it complicates a lot of cutting ! Even judge yourself :

plaque10.jpg

After studying the feasibility, I relaunched. I will not explain again : I did as the previous time. I simply tape the ebony plate and pear to tape to protect the wood because the cuts will be very "delicate" for some. I took about sixteen hours to cut everything, but I broke less blades: only ten. Here are all my little pieces :

plaque14.jpg

And here are the two plates that I will be able to exploit (the ebony plate will not be) :

plaque13.jpg

plaque11.jpg

A view a little closer where you can see that in places the cuts are at most what I can do :

plaque17.jpg

plaque12.jpg

Finally, after five to six hours of assembly and sanding, the final result on the pear plate :

plaque15.jpg

I find it much better than the previous one and it's her that I'll keep for the showcase ... in 20 years ! (Is not it Chris !)

plaque16.jpg

Will remain to make a small brass frame, but it will be for later, when I know how to braze ...

See you later !

Patrick

 

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Wow!!!!!!!

Regards Paul 

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello gentlemen!
 

Thank you very much !


A small activity "annex" to change a little: the barrels.
I am planning to include some of them in the boat. I based myself on this page of the "Vaisseau de 74 canons" of Jean BOUDRIOT, I will try to realize the models for which I calculated the measurements at 1:48

tonnel17.jpg


I set my circular saw on an inclination of the blade of 11 °:

tonnel26.jpg

tonnel25.jpg


I then debit my  pear sticks. These are 1cm in height:

tonnel31.jpg


Then, each stick is passed in black felt on 2 sides:

tonnel29.jpg

tonnel30.jpg

tonnel24.jpg


The sticks are then glued together at the rate of 16:

tonnel22.jpg


Adhesive is used to tighten the glue drying time:

tonnel32.jpg


I thus constitute myself several games of different diameters - function of the future barrels:

tonnel28.jpg


For the rest of the steps, I print J.BOUDRIOT's page with a reduction coefficient of 50% so as to get my barrels at 1/48 (the page representing them at 1/24):

tonnel27.jpg


The next step is to make tools to turn the barrels. On an old saw blade, I stick my templates:

tonnel42.jpg


I then shape them, first the general form:

tonnel34.jpg


Then I create a "cutting edge":

tonnel33.jpg


Result:

tonnel41.jpg

tonnel40.jpg


I then cut them to the right length:

tonnel38.jpg


I first "mark" the form on the lathe:

tonnel39.jpg


Then I continue with the chisel to rough:

tonnel36.jpg


Then I finish with the tool:

tonnel35.jpg


I realized a little more than 40 barrels without major problem, except that it is quite long:

tonnel37.jpg

tonnel50.jpg


To dig the ends, I could use a mill for small barrels, but it's not terrible: it vibrates:

tonnel48.jpg


So I decided to continue with the lathe, anyway I would not have the mill needed for larger diameters. The problem was to find a way not to "mark" the barrels with the jaws of the lathe ... The solution: rubber "toothed" like this one:

tonnel43.jpg

tonnel49.jpg


It works very well, all of which is to center the barrel:

tonnel46.jpg

tonnel47.jpg

tonnel44.jpg


I shot at 2000 RPM:

tonnel51.jpg


No problem for very small barrels:

tonnel49.jpg

tonnel45.jpg


All barrels have been treated on both sides:

tonnel52.jpg


For the rest, I used "punch" ?  on striated pear with a point. With a little work of adjustment, my diameters were sufficient for all barrels:

tonnel58.jpg

tonnel57.jpg


For strapping, I will use this:

tonnel56.jpg


that I will mark at first at the tip and cut with scissors: considering the small thickness it works, but it is long:

tonnel59.jpg


Burnishing:

tonnel53.jpg


Finally, pose: it's long and delicate! I started with the smallest model to see:

tonnel55.jpg

tonnel54.jpg


I'm not unhappy with the result, but there are still more than 40 to do ... I'll have to be very patient!

Especially since there is still work on each barrel: bungs etc ...

See you !

Patrick

 

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I used a "punch" (correct, it's called just that)

 

Those barrels look marvelous. When I started at the top, I thought them way bigger, until the last image. Quite a surprise ! Lots of patience

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Salut Chris !

 

One side will be open but simply between the frames : I will not make a "hole" in the hull. Similarly, the opposite side of the decks will be open at each level. I intend to illuminate the interior with micro-leds that I ordered ... That's where I am of my reflection ...

Have a nice day my friend !

Patrick

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Caulking would "taint" the taste of the contents. Ever seen a caulked wine barrel ? It's the liquid which make them swell and tighten the seems shut ... such a perfect system ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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5 hours ago, cog said:

Caulking would "taint" the taste of the contents. Ever seen a caulked wine barrel ? It's the liquid which make them swell and tighten the seems shut ... such a perfect system ...

This is, of course, sensible from a strictly realistic perspective.  On the other hand, how else is one to see that the modeler has taken pains to represent tapered barrel staves?  I would keep them as they are.

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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On 3.5.2018 at 8:32 PM, JOUFF said:

Hi Johann !

 

Thank you for the appreciation !

Warning : I made a mistake by simulating a black seal ,according to Gérard DELACROIX : there was no caulking on the barrels ... It is not very serious, but I prefer to warn you !

Patrick

Hello Patrick,

the black seal serves to illustrate that the barrel is made from individual staves.
That's legitimate in model making.

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You seem to be having a lot of fun, keep up the good work!

 

John

John

 

Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Current Builds: Tugboat Dorothy  Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #1 (complete)

                            Iron Clad Monitor (complete) 

                            Sardine Carrier which I will Name Mary Ann (complete)

                            Pilot Boat John H. Estill Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #12 (my avatar)

                    Harbor tug Susan Moran

                    Coast Guard 100' patrol boat

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That nameplate shows the class really well - you managed to cut that super thin "bridges" between the letters in the center, fantastic!

 

And looking forward for your approach to the LED lighting of the hold! ;) 

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