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Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set


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I painted enamel (humrol)  on all my brass effect parts, and just forced dryed them with a hairdryer then did acrylic washes over it and dry brushed highlighting again with acrylic - straight after the enamel,  with no lifting or reacting of the different mediums.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks semore

I think that makes it clear enough that even a dummy like me can do it with some practice. Looks like I'm not done spending yet!

 

The only problem I have with the film is not with the technique but with the hull weathering. I think that class of fast attack boats have fiberglass hulls and there is no way they would be rusted! But then it is a modern day ship so I could be wrong and opened my fat mouth again.

 

Thanks for the video it really is helpful along with all the other input above on the subject.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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18 minutes ago, JohnEnglish said:

I asked because all the paint compatibility matrices I've seen have been similar to this one that cautions using enamel over acrylic.

 

PaintMatrix.png

 

I have never come across this before and have never had a problem with applying enamel, or even oil paints over acrylic. I think the problem lies in applying paint over a coat that hasn't had enough time to "cure". I have always left a coat of paint at least 48 hours to cure before applying anything over the top.

Completed Build --- Virginia 1819 - Artesania Latina

Other Models      --- German Armor plus others    Mastermind

 

Current Build --- Liveship Vivacia

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It deffinatley  helps to heat up the enamel paint  to force dry it,   I used to work for a cycle manufacturer  and when we painted the frames with enamel paint  it was (in effect) backed on with heat  on a slow moving track with  heaters either side blasting hot air at them  - hence why I use a hairdryer on full and hot setting.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I'd say that's a sound plan of attack ;)    the cranes look excellent.....well done!  

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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This is what I found this morning. No one wants to fess up to it lol. Its ok **** happens. It should be an easy fix to reglue in 3 spots, touch up the paint with the airbrush and re attach it.... in theory.  I bet I brake a railing or somthing on the ship before its repaired. 

A2707E33-B855-42E0-AFD8-390155510F9F.thumb.jpeg.eac3e14692e970dd33094bf92eb80067.jpeg51E9EEF7-5A39-4CF4-BB12-FC3FC02883B5.thumb.jpeg.dc3acd23c632c6c9a2fbf82f46078cf3.jpeg

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I touched up the damaged mast and re-attached it. It actually looks better than it did before. 

3CBD3F77-E58B-433C-A990-604A12A2CA4B.thumb.jpeg.e900b7879124d6adf10666fbdc9a5c7e.jpeg

I supose  I can’t delay this any further. 😒I have begun the process of airbrushing the launches.  So far so good. 

 The first thing to do it to paint all the hulls with tamiyas hull red. 

A46B782A-9349-44C2-B9EF-3E8B6AB1A96E.thumb.jpeg.f9b0c520c03688b8dbcd679fc2ae9a99.jpeg5560C5E4-F6E7-49E2-9E0E-91B5E4CEB697.thumb.jpeg.3fea3799073d8df96e6c36200054a4a3.jpeg

pretty simple and came out ok. Next I will tape off the hulls and apply the greys. 

1BA2164B-00C0-429C-B27E-4604D561BD91.thumb.jpeg.c52dbf07cb813e42d17a879387f09a32.jpeg632B70BA-1851-4C11-8EE9-5FCA6B3527E2.thumb.jpeg.0324b27114bbf5b59bc8b20359de3478.jpeg

 

 

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 Scott what an outstanding build you have got going here still got pages to look at but work in my shop beckons.I want to share with you a build a fella is doing of the Eugen in doc/dio and plant a seed for lights maybe on Big Mo if you go down that path.This is his build log https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=171&t=123675 and if I may a pic and weathering is spot on ;) Kevin

IMG_20181122_004809_HDR.jpg

Edited by Javlin
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23 hours ago, semorebutts said:

Holy crap!! Thats one of the most amazing things ive ever seen!  That has to be home made PE. I dont think you can buy those PE sheet.... amazing!

Yeah, further on down the page the guy says he designed the cranes, warehouses, and submarines himself in Adobe Illustrator and then sent them here (https://www.etchworks.eu/) to be made. He said he had to do that because he couldn't find what he wanted anywhere.

Edited by JohnEnglish
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I read through the rest of the thread and he said he got a book that detailed U-Boat construction and he did a high resolution scan of a lot of the blueprints and images, imported them into Illustrator, and then traced them to make vector drawings. For the cranes and buildings he just found photographs online and traced them. He then sent the vector images to the photo etch manufacturing company.

Edited by JohnEnglish
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On 11/8/2017 at 12:41 PM, semorebutts said:

Im not happy with the weathering. Its matches what I weathered months ago but I'm just not happy.  

 

Before

IMG_0954.thumb.JPG.6c6d6cd289b91c381343199eb6d0ce76.JPG

After 

IMG_0956.thumb.JPG.4fb1f712e709c213a0fd885cd2b1cb0f.JPGIMG_0961.thumb.JPG.a69b9257f2ea90ff4feefacfdce2649a.JPGIMG_0962.thumb.JPG.f8c89f7151f2b9b7347af15fb75293ba.JPG

It matches whats on the ship though. 

IMG_0948.thumb.JPG.2ea3be26b2f85b947424e4fd337a90c8.JPG

on the up side I love putting on these decks. 

IMG_0963.thumb.JPG.c127f41fc6ad014c892f83cc67c1520d.JPG

I think the weathering/highlights look just fine.A story I was painting a Ki-45 Nick 1/48 pale green/darker blotches with the dark blotches done by brush.I did 1/2 of the plane about 1 1/2 hrs of work put it down and came back later the next day actually.I started repainting and crap the blotches were turning out different and the pattern was off??It's all a creative process and one cannot always tap the mood from the day before it was the 2nd time this occurred now I paint in one sitting.Keep that in mind and the formula you used if you walk away keep the paint with the kit. ;) Kevin

 

I know this from a long ways back but just something I have learned.Now back to pg6 :wacko: got lots of catching up.

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I will be sooo happy when these launches are done!  Im so sick them. 

I have never had a problem with Tamiya’s masking tape before, but this is the launches so...  with Tamiya tape  I usually apply it to my skin first. Theory being the oil from my skin makes the tape slightly less tacky preventing the paint coming off with the tape when unmasking. And that usually works great.

C040E2CA-3518-47F2-8FA6-08EEA5F50F25.thumb.jpeg.3d4fbbea4810b718875f727edb2b8af9.jpegB8C24EB9-711C-4A5F-865F-177F87D7A1BF.thumb.jpeg.6ea85220c88870c9cd0a4507ff0aa156.jpeg

but the launches will not  tolerate  A smooth operation.   So of course some hull red  came off with the tape. 

8B3EA753-4780-49F2-B168-70313F9CD813.thumb.jpeg.b765cdb7b812e47d37d2f5dc6f5bfb9e.jpeg98C6A769-0F2F-44AB-ABF3-564190264212.thumb.jpeg.8786f94e8ecfad9a4033c26b1b4d1a72.jpeg

 I decided to touch up the red with a brush which I hate doing because  it’s a different sheen and texture  compared to airbrushed paint. But it is what it is I guess. 

D9E19ACC-4DF4-4256-B98F-A2AF92CDA7BF.thumb.jpeg.b5f78dca283d6e651edcf966c230879b.jpegBDA5DF19-FF12-4597-A889-340D051EE901.thumb.jpeg.ba4df6962db8893e1626eda041540c19.jpeg

here You can see the different texture and sheen. 

BE6BBD6D-35BD-44B0-953A-ACC7863D1495.thumb.jpeg.e582f420c8edb02028e1dea638ef7ea7.jpeg

Oh and theres a new member of the flock,  meet Pearl. 

22C7D768-6718-4C5F-AD98-BDA8AD8A578F.thumb.jpeg.d55cf4276ea65c53d303f95effe4471b.jpeg

 

Edited by semorebutts
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Scott, try applying the tape to your jeans to take a little stickum off the tape. And maybe blend the two painted areas with a piece of a brown paper sack. Its like a very fine sandpaper. Start slowly and don't press too hard; you're blending the painted surfaces.

 

 

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I suggest you prime (if you didn't) and use Mr. color leveling thinner to thin Tamiyas paints, I assure after that you don't have any problems of paint peeling off anymore! The leveling thinner makes the paint so much stronger and with good primer is a damn good combination.

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25 minutes ago, Koppalakki said:

I suggest you prime (if you didn't) and use Mr. color leveling thinner to thin Tamiyas paints, I assure after that you don't have any problems of paint peeling off anymore! The leveling thinner makes the paint so much stronger and with good primer is a damn good combination.

This is the Mr Color leveling thinner:

DSCN1901.thumb.JPG.deb0812d69fef2f244ba0d8334d7ec74.JPG

 

Since my local hobby shops don't carry Mr. Color paints and products, I buy it online here. He has great prices and the turn around time to receive the products is lightning fast.

 

https://spraygunner.com/ 

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