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Model Shipway Ratline tool


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An interesting idea but...What are the chances of not pulling the ratlines out of line when,after turning in the deadeyes reeving the lanyards then tensioning the shrouds? It's almost a guarantee you will pull them out of line,thread/rope can/will stretch after all. Could end up looking dreadful if you've glued the clove hitches. Just a thought :) Also,I can't imagine the hastle of getting 4 or 5 pairs of shrouds linked together by ratlines over the masthead in sequence stbd 1&2 then port 1&2 etc. 

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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First impression - part 2   (or is it Second impression??)

 

I' have cut my trial shrouds off the Ratliner.  It is easy to do and the resulting unit is robust and easy to handle.  

IMG_2697.jpg.8d4d12456ddff3d3e5b8ed2c025983d4.jpgIMG_2698.jpg.9d60eaed88760ceae1afb9302afff4b6.jpgIMG_2699.jpg.60055f185e090838c20de11d080feeeb.jpg

 

Once the ratlines were all snipped then I tied off the loops at the topic order to keep them together and organized.

IMG_2701.jpg.f9acec9c9c8f54653f4fcb6311593435.jpg

 

Full removed from the frame.

IMG_2702.jpg.52192b6c462728e84d48188f93a7609f.jpg

 

At this point I decided to try this shroud set out on my Bluenose II.  Since I'd already attached the main topmast I had to unattached it.

 

IMG_2695.jpg.64dc6f2adc5d27ee59b501118afa02a3.jpg

 

that turned out to beast (maybe too easy)

IMG_2696.jpg.ce81b27c729e6e1246749eea1675ec47.jpg

 

Then I draped the shroud set over the main mast

IMG_2703.jpg.f5737d2f1627147338d04d6c471fa639.jpg

 

But horrors - it was way too short.  Was I not going to be able to use my new favourite tool????

 

I dug out the plans and laid the shrouds over the image of the shrouds

IMG_2705.jpg.d25c560094c6f5dae416ee53e8f1d990.jpg

 

a little hard to see but it looked OK

IMG_2706.jpg.bcff1657257f04771e49aef4dcecf9ef.jpg

 

Even with the extra 1/4 of an inch or so that I needed for the hypotenuse of the shroud-mast triangle I can do this one on the Ratliner - Whew!

 

That's good in theory (i.e. the plans say I can do it but the ship said I was way out).  A bit more measurement and I discovered the problem was in the shipyard - the main mast was too long. I can fix that! 

 

In summary - so far so good.  I'll fix the mast, I'll practice tying knots on the edge the Ratliner until I can do it well, and then I'll make the real shroud unit for my ship.  I will adopt Ken's solution for the odd-number of shrouds - I'll set up with 6 shrouds but only tie the rat;ones on 5 of them.  Once done I'll snip off the 6th shroud (having made sure to seize the 5th and 6th very firmly at mast top.

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Dave,

 

I haven't got that far yet so I can't address your issues.  Ken, the creator of the jig, has indicated his success with the approach so the problems may not be so bad.  The question of alternating port pair - starboard pair over the mast is an interesting one.  Similar to the issue I have with the singleton (odd) shrouds.  Historical accuracy may be a gotcha for this approach! For those of use who aren't (yet?) concerned about historical accuracy then this may be a good solution.  I'll still reserve judgement at lsat until 3rd impressions.

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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33 minutes ago, michael mott said:

Knot having made ratlines for a model looking at the jig leads me to my first question which relates to the sequence of placing the shrouds on the mast. I am given to understand that these are placed over the mast working alternately from port to starboard (maybe the other way round) which this jig doesn't seem to account for, unless I am not understanding something.

 

Michael

You may be correct although having handled my 1st trial set I can imagine alternating them by making both port and starboard set and then looping them in turn over the mast.  I'll try that on my Bluenose II shrouds and report my experience.  I'll also look forward to Ken's comments on the matter.

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Doug, I did not have access to all ship plans, and it appears that the PdN is more the exception than the norm. The 1:35 size would handle the height but would require a little fussing on spacing the ratlines as they are added. Also keep in mind the shroud line spacing can be slightly adjusted by rotating the knot on the lower tabs from left or right to center on the tab.

 

Michael, you need to make a port and starboard set; then the shroud loops can be added by alternating each as needed indexing each as they are added to the mast. Once in place then the deadeye ends can then be addressed. The key is tying the loops to keep them in proper order before removing from the Ratliner.

 

One other thought that I have not tried is painting the lines while still on the Ratliner using either thinned paint in the case of black lines or using a 50/50 mix of white glue and water to stiffen for easier handling once removed. Perhaps Doug could do an experiment to see if it helps any.

Ken

Current build: Maersk Detroit"
Future builds:  Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90
Completed builds: US Brig Niagara, Dirty Dozen, USS Constitution, 18th Century Armed Longboat
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/

 

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Thanks for your comments Ken.  So far I find handing the unit off frame is quite easy but I can try the stiffener via diluted glue just to see how it works.  Although I haven’t mounted the shrouds and reeved the deadeyes I have tried tugging on individual shrouds to see if the knots slip and ruin the ratlines.  They have held fast so I am confident this will work out!

 

A question - is there a diffence in appearance or performance of “white glue” vs carpenters glue - the brownish stuff.  I’ve haven’t tried white glue since it messed up the hull of my Prince de Neufchâtel!

 

 

 

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Doug, I have not tried that to see if there is any difference; but I am sure that the yellow color of the glue may have so level of tint when applied to brown rope. I have only ever used the white glue for this kind of application. 

Ken

Current build: Maersk Detroit"
Future builds:  Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90
Completed builds: US Brig Niagara, Dirty Dozen, USS Constitution, 18th Century Armed Longboat
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/

 

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Doug,that is how it was done. Stbd 1&2,Port 1&2 then Stbd 3&4,Port 3&4 and so on. A good dodge for single shrouds is,if the ship had 2 Burton pendants (masthead tackles) to incorporate these with the single forward shroud. Alternatively a false cut splice can be made joining the 2 single shrouds,the serving will hide this. Just for info,the forward shroud on square rigged RN ships was always wormed and served for it's full length. Prevented the sails chafing on the fwd shrouds when close hauled Think this was standard in all navies. I believe on fore and aft rig the rearmost shroud has this done.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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Yes, the white glues dry to a clear translucency. The yellow carpenter's glues will definitely leave a yellow/tan coloration.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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48 minutes ago, Canute said:

Yes, the white glues dry to a clear translucency. The yellow carpenter's glues will definitely leave a yellow/tan coloration.

 

Thanks for that - I've been frustrated with my attempts to make rope coils for a build using carpenters glue - I just thought it was wrong dilution or lack of technique (both of which may still be true).  Off to try out white glue!

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Having read through the posts, I still don’t really see the advantage of this jig over doing it prototype-fashion on the model. I could foresee a lot of fiddling an pulling in order to get the assembly into the right shape at the right place.

For stabilising things I would rather use clear varnish than wood glue, as it allows to correct errors with a drop of solvent.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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I wonder what would happen if you were even just a little off in alignment of the mast or deadeyes.  Even a minor adjustment looks like it would pull the whole array out of wack.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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As another little test to get a sense of the end product of this approach I took the trial shrouds from above and reeved the shrouds through the bottom deadeyes.  Then I weighted each of the shrouds with a clamp. 

 

IMG_2708.jpg.2c29a2d47d04d9b7ba3d41d588448e3f.jpg

I thought the result was quite OK - recall that this was my 1st trial and that I didn't fuss over the ratlines too much and didn't do ratlines all the way to the top.  In addition although I had rigged the starboard shroud on the Ratliner I inadvertently show it here on the port side of the ship.  Furthermore I can assure you I have not been at all gentle with the unit as I wanted to see how stable and robust it is.

 

Second test here was to yank quite hard on individual shrouds (without actually breaking my mast!).  Here is the 5th shroud yanked down - you can see the distortion in the ratlines.

 

IMG_2709.jpg.c415c27ba092ef0e90192e4468e313f9.jpg

 

Once released the ratline resumed its original position quite well.

 

IMG_2710.jpg.04692d0af6bf4acd46d442d1729beca0.jpg

 

 

I'm satisfied that I can do pretty well using the Ratliner approach so now I'll do a pair of shrouds using it, install them, and then tie ratlines on the fore shrouds already on the model and comment here on the experience and show the results.  Back in a couple of days.

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Really appreciate you doing this and posting your results Doug.  I am a far cry away from rigging but what you have shown seems very positive.  And any advantage I can get I take.  I'll likely purchase one in the following months to use on my Bluenose.  Can't wait to see your future results.

Derek

If you want to build a ship, don't drum up the men to gather wood, divide the work and give orders. Instead, teach them to yearn for the vast and endless sea  

Antoine de Saint Exupery

 

Current Builds

Bluenose - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

Fair American - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Group Build

On Deck

Guns of History Naval Smoothbore Deck Gun - 1:24 Scale

Finished Builds

Mare Nostrum - Artesania Latina - 1:35 Scale

Guns of History Carronade - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

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Quote

 

I wonder what would happen if you were even just a little off in alignment of the mast or deadeyes.  Even a minor adjustment looks like it would pull the whole array out of wack.

 

Regards,

 

 

 

One way to address this, would be to make the shrouds before setting up the deadeyes on the channels.

 

Edited by Gregory

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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I haven’t bothered to do the trig on this but I suspect the adjustments would be small enough that the flexibility of the shroud structure would accommodate the adjustment and not be noticeable to the eye.  The angle between the shrouds are not rigid and the ratlines aren’t supposed to be straight lines anyways.  I gather the challenge in any rattling exercise is to actually get them to droop a bit.

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Ratliner Review


Spacing of lines 
    Ratliner: 1:64 Ratliner spacing is 1/4” corresponding to 16” on real shrouds
    OnShip: any spacing desired.  Usually a template is placed behind shrouds with spacing lines drawn on it.

Rattling process
    both methods are very similar in terms of knotting process.  Skill in one is transferrable to the other.

Speed
    I found Ratliner took about twice as long because the tie up to the frame takes some time that isn’t required when rattling onShip.
    I had more re-do’s OnShip than on Ratliner.  I can’t compare overall time but expect OnShip is faster.

Material usage
    Ratliner lines are all the same length as they are attached on each edge of the frame.  
    OnShip lines are just long enough for easy handling .
    I found that I was using about 3x more line on the Ratliner (15” as opposed to 5”).  Since I was using commercial sewing thread for the ratlines this cost difference is insignificant.  However if one was purchasing rigging line therefor the ship I’m rigging the ratline cost would be approximately $US16.  (just counting the lower shrouds for the main and the foremast assuming 10” waste, 30 lines on each main shrouds and 20 on each foremast shroud.  1000” total waste at $4 for 20’ or 240” from Syren Ship Company).

Process and Results
    Ratliner: I found that because it held the lines under a bit of tension that the knots ended up be tight and did not open up at all.  Leveling the ratline was very easy due to the ruled lines and the holes that hold the lines to the frame.  It was easy to tie the clove hitches as my tweezers could be inserted between the shroud to pick up the ratline thread for each clovehitch.  Working on the frame had pretty good ergonomics - not holding my arms up at mast height on the model.

    OnShip: I found that the clvvehitch knots at each end of the ratline  tended to loosen as they were not under any tension.  Also the loose ends could occasionally get in the way.  Some of the knots ended up being a bit loose on the middle shrouds as well.  Perhaps that was a function of the polyester thread I was using - is cotton better in that regard?  Working with the shrouds on the model also seems a bit dodgier just because of the proximity of the desk lamp/magnifier near the masts although I didn’t actually have any incidents.

Preliminary Recommendations
    I liked using the Ratliner - I had a sense of confidence doing the work on the frame.  I was disappointed that the time per ratline was 2x that of the OnShip ratlines.  I found the skills developed on the Ratliner transferred very well to the OnShip method.  

Next Steps
    I have to build the starboard side shrouds and do the rattling of the starboard foremast shrouds before I can mount the shroud units on the mainmast and rigging then to the deadeyes.

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Advice to purchasers:IMG_2732.jpg.a679841204aec01cfe64d1998e690abc.jpg

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Thanks so much for taking the time to review this product. 

 

Richard. 

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

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i wonder if this would work better, if there was a way of attaching part of the mast to the jig, so you could have exact length of he line used for the shrouds. there could be some sort of attachment allowing you to temporarily tie the deadeyes with correct spacing. like a dummy deck with dummy channels. but that would deny the whole point of doing it. as you would practically do the job twice. easier to do it on the ship. but the manipulation would be easier on the dummy deck...

nah, ignore me, just thinking out loud...

 

Pavol stands for Paul, Pablo, Paolo etc. Please do not try to pronounce it, just call me Pav...

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Pav, If we’re blue-skying a modified jig then I’d ask for a second side -like the current side - hinged at the top so you could set up for both port and starboard shrouds at the same time.  That would allow the Singleton shroud to be mounted in the “approved” manner and also have all the shroud pairs alternating port and starboard. I’d also like some clever jam cleat arrangement for the end of the ratlines so it was quicker to attach them to the frame.   If possible I’d prefer the sides of the frames to be angled in at the top so that the lines for the ratlines could be shorter - less wasted rope. I’d like some mechanism to allow the upper deadeyes to be attached to the shrouds while still on the jig.  I’d like it to be cherry instead of MDF, and offered at the same price!

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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11 minutes ago, maaaslo said:

Hmmm... shall we start a project?

 

We better be careful or we'll end up designing a model ship - from the ratlines out!

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Gee ... you could be already finished with the rattling-down without this gadget, just using a piece of cardboard behind the already installed shrouds on which you have drawn lines with the distance of the ratlines ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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19 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Gee ... you could be already finished with the rattling-down without this gadget, just using a piece of cardboard behind the already installed shrouds on which you have drawn lines with the distance of the ratlines ...

 

Possibly true but I'm going to finish up and see if I like the results of one approach vs the other.  I would imagine anyone who has successfully done the rattling of a model will not find a use for the Ratliner - however those of us who are starting out, those who find the ergonomics of the process OnShip quite tiring, or those who have had trouble rattling their models OnShip for other reasons (maybe a bit clumsy like me?) may find the device a help.  

 

I still haven't finished my starboard shrouds so it'll be a while 'til I can mount them and finish my trial.  

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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The trial run is over.  The shrouds are installed.  

IMG_2748.jpg.dab3b4c7f1b831834ec4a82fbba856ba.jpg

 

The foremast shrouds were already on the ship so I did the rattling OnShip.

IMG_2726.jpg.63277d66806840cdd517954429887219.jpg

IMG_2730.jpg.8621be44bdbeb0c1a729c7d00597a21f.jpg

IMG_2750.jpg.a48b0b56ea88b7b62818fbfb89f9a18b.jpg

IMG_2754.jpg.2a4e84783480d2327e588c86f5ffc57a.jpg

 

 

The main mast shrouds were rattled on the Ratliner and then the port snd starboard units were mounted and the deadeyes stropped and then reeved.

 

IMG_2724.jpg.271eacfc7e5f72e62776a48fc06e021c.jpg

IMG_2731.jpg.c8f7c63b80ae8c4d315fdaf537715bb4.jpg

IMG_2749.jpg.3b23136b883769398cbd362a48533e95.jpg

IMG_2753.jpg.ed8ccd17456110b1af7ebc244235f6a5.jpg

 

 

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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To summarize my experience:

 

Ratliner was slower and used more ratline rope than OnShip.

 

While the actual rattling is very similar in both methods I had more trouble getting the knots on the OnShip method to be as firm and to stay snug until the dilute glue was applied.  Here the Ratliner seems to help me.

 

The mounting of the shroud units on the main mast was not difficult.  Alternating between port and starboard loops as they were placed over the mast did not create any problem.  I did not have any problem with the shape of the ratlines as I tightened the shrouds individually.  I made an error in mounting the starboard shroud unit and put it on backwards.  When I discovered it I determined that from an appearance perspective was fine so I have not corrected that mistake.  A second problem exists with the the port shroud unit.  For reasons I have not "sussed out" the ratlines are not parallel with the top rail.  I might perform a redo at some point but it is not the worst mistake in the build!

 

 

Overall I'm happy with the tool.  I can imagine doing fine without it and if time were of the essence then ratline OnShip would be OK as well.  The use of the Ratliner is likely my choice for my next ratline task because I found the ergonomics better and I appreciated the ease of clove hitching  when the end(s) are held on the frame rather than loose.  Trying to get a thirdhand positioned near the shrouds in the OnShip method does not appeal to me.

 

One very simple modification I have made is to add a guid to the frame for holding the white card behind the rattling area.

 

IMG_2755.jpg.56db8d85de219aabc5bbc2c6ad29e813.jpgIMG_2756.jpg.a02a1234d1f8e5b936048a976e55edd8.jpg

 

 

Doug

Current BuildsBluenose II - AKrabbenkutter / Prince de Neufchatel / Essex Cross-section / Syren / Barque Stefano / Winchelsea / Half Hull / Maria HF31 - Dusek / Bandirma - Turkmodel

On the Shelf: Santisima Trinidad and Cross Section / HMS Cutter Alert / Tender AVOS / Confederacy

Suspended Build: Bluenose II - Billing Boats Nr 600 

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Doug,

 

Try one more experiment, I am sure you timed how long the rigging of one set of shrouds took.

I screwed up when rigging my victory, was 90% finished they looked like hell (I am not what you call a serious or experienced modeler). I took a pair of scissors and cut everyone out I wasn't crying (had just cut some onions).

 

I had used a paper guide with lines and exact measurements and some other hints on this site.

 

Try one mast, lay your shrouds in tied to blocks and channels.  I tied my first line at the bottom, tied the second ratline at the top, tied the third ratline at the midway point, and the fourth at the 3/4 way point. The shrouds are now broken into fourths. By doing this you have straight shrouds and by be careful there not pulled in or out.

 

Now this may seem tricky but eyeball as you go up from your bottom point, your ratline should be loose enough to adjust. I think you will find out they will look pretty good if you don't get into exact widths to the 9th degree. After you do one and play with it  you will be surprised how fast it will go and actually be enjoyable.

 

And you can avoid this  :default_wallbash::default_wallbash::default_wallbash:

 

 

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Question: how did you actually tie your knots ? I use tweezers in each hand and start from the middle, not from the forward or rear shroud. This reduces the risk of pulling the shrouds together.

 

If a piece of cardboard with the shroud/ratline layout behind the shrouds is not enough as guidance, you may think of several strips of cardboard with notches in the distance of shrouds distributed along the shrouds as spacers. This prevents them from being pulled together.

 

If your knots don't stay tight, you probably used the wrong or too thick material for the ratlines. Actually looking at your pictures, I think this is the problem. The ratlines are much, much thinner than the shrouds. In real life they may have perhaps a diameter of 1 cm or so. In real life as on the model: a thinner line holds better on the shroud, but it cannot be too thin, otherwise it would cut too much into the (bare) feet of the sailors and of course it has to carry their weight.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Doug, I like your idea of adding the guide rails for the white background card. I just cut mine to press fit. I agree with wefalck that your ratline could be thinner and be easier to tie. Again I used 100% cotton for both and tied my own ropes; polyester and nylons seem to have too much spring back for tight knot tying. Great job and I agree with you on the ergonomics of using it. 

Ken

Current build: Maersk Detroit"
Future builds:  Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90
Completed builds: US Brig Niagara, Dirty Dozen, USS Constitution, 18th Century Armed Longboat
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/

 

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