Jump to content

Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross-Section by DocBlake - FINISHED - based on Mamoli's "Constitution" - 1:93 scale


Recommended Posts

I found the Mamoli Constitution cross section on EBay for a song (plus shipping!) so I bought it, thinking I'd start yet another project.  Looking at the box cover, I noticed the bottle of Jim Beam and the half full glass next to it.  It turns out that these are not there by accident.  In reviewing the kit contents and plans, I came to the conclusion that the designer of this cross section must have been drunk when he drew up the plans!  There are so many errors!  First, this is supposed to represent the constitution at the level of the main mast.  The frames in this kit are all identical, meaning the section will be dead straight with no bevel to the frames, and no narrowing of the hull moving aft.  This is great for fairing and planking, but not accurate at all:  the AOTS book clearly shows the hull narrowing moving aft at this point.  Also the chain pumps don't connect with anything below the gun deck!  There is no well or shot lockers, and most egregious of all, the cross section has only 3 decks!  "Old Ironsides" has 4.  What to do? 

 

I decided that I couldn't build the cross section as the Constitution.  In studying several plans in my AOTS library, I discovered that the three deck layout, and shape of the hull amidships was similar to the HMS Bellona, a Royal Navy Ship of the Line.  I decided I would build the cross section as typical of British naval vessels of the 18th century.  This should be interesting.  I'll be switching out a lot of the woods, and plan to avoid using any paint.  I'll also add details missing from the kit like shot lockers and the well.  The photos show the box cover and the cross section layout for this kit and Bellona.  They are very similar, including having only 3 decks!

box.JPG

plans.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This should prove to be an interesting build. I'll grab a seat now to follow along!

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am sure that bottle of Jim Beam is going to get some use during this build. :dancetl6:

Edited by MEDDO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doc, I'm signing on, too. This is in my stash, soI'm interested in modifying the kit. Build on!.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The kit has 5 pair of half frames, all identical and cut from plywood.  The surface of the plywood is light colored and closed grain so it can be left as is for finishing.  Only the fore-most and aft-most are visible in the completed model.  I decided to score futtock lines and drill holes for bolts on 2 pair of half frames.  I'm not even adding treenails, because the holes are so small, all that's needed is a little graphite from a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil lead and a couple of coats of poly to simulate bolts holding the frame together.

 

There is no build jig per se.  The model is constructed "sandwich" style with spaces glued between each frame to establish proper location and fix the gun ports.  I made about 10 copies of the layout plan for the frames and spaces.

 

The keel is European beech, as is the keelson, and has rabbets already milled.  The was no false keel so I added one made of rosewood.  The keel was then glued to the first frame and check carefully for square.  I'll build the second frame on a separate board and transfer it here to the main board for assembly.  I want to make sure my placement of spacers is accurate, especially where they define the gun ports.

framesandkeel.JPG

finishframe.jpg

framebuild.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave.

Been a while since I've seen a cross section here on MSW

Gotta follow along with this build.

Keep it square and centred.

Looks a nice kit.

 

Regards Antony.

Edited by AntonyUK

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I finished gluing up all 5 pair of half frames. There are spacers between each one, and because of all the end grain butt joints, I elected to use 5 minute epoxy to glue the frame assembly together. I used 6 small machinist's squares to keep the glue up straight and perpendicular. There will be minimal fairing, because most of the spacers fit inside the profile of the frames. I will have to fit the keelson and that will require a little trimming of the notches, but nothing major. The outboard surface will need almost no fairing, since the frames are identical.

Bellona was built in 1760 but didn't get her bottom coppered until 1780. I think I'll use a stylized color scheme: Swiss pear below the wales, rosewood for the wales and rails, boxwood for the outboard planking above the wales (usually painted ochre) and bloodwood for the inner bulwark planking. Deck framing will be European beech wood and the decks, holly/

crossframe1.JPG

crossframe2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a little more done today.  I milled my own keelson and deck clamps out of European beech and installed them.  Next is planking the hold.  I'll use beech and include thick stuff as well as footwaling.  I also plan limber boards and a well and shot locker.  This may be a bit challenging at what is essential 1/8" scale.

clamps1.JPG

clamps2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Bob!

 

I planked the hold up to the deck clamps for the orlop deck. I added thick stuff at the approximate locations of the futtock joints. I alsp started planking the outer hull. The inner planking is European beech, the outer hull planking is swiss pear. The limber boards are fitted but not yet installed.

holdplank.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I started building a well and shot locker, since none was included with the kit.  The structure will be swiss pear with the access door and the lids to the shot lockers made of boxwood.  I "borrowed" some plans for the well and scaled then to the right size.  I used double sided tape to hold the vertical studs in place while I planked horizontally across them.  I'll trim them up when the glue dries and add the front, back,lids and door.

Img_0970.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Here is the glued up well and shot locker. I need to add the hinged lids for the shot locker as well as the access door to the well.



This part is the first in which I had to address the issue of scale. I came to an interesting conclusion. The kit is listed at 1:93 scale, or just slightly larger than 1/8" = 1 foot. At that scale, the hold would be 10 scale feet deep and the space between the decks would be about 7 scale feet! Very doubtful any ship existed in the 18th century with that kind of head room. I suspect the scale is much closer to 3/16" or 1:64, giving the space between decks at slightly less than 5 feet. I'm going to build to that scale going forward.



Regarding the lids and access door: I'm planning to use boxwood for the contrast with the pear. Anyone disagree and vote for pear for those parts? The other two photos show this wood combination for the well in my AVS build.

Img_0972.jpg

avswell.jpg

avswell2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the contrast of the box wood. I always think that if you are going to make all those beautiful details, letting them be seen is a good thing. The contrasting colors allow that. 

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I framed out the gun port openings in blood wood then planked the hull up to the gun deck ports.  The hull below the wales is swiss pear, the wales are ebony and the planking above the wales is castello box wood.  I spent way more time on the shot locker and well than I planned, but it's finally done.  In the end, I opted for making the access door and shot locker lids of swiss pear, just like the framework of the well itself.

hullplanks.JPG

well1.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

That all looks really beautiful. I don't think Mamoli had any idea how well their "Constitution" cross section could actually turn out when skillfully turned into something else completely.

David


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done Dave, your choice of woods is great

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!

 

I finished planking the outside of the hull. I added decorative molding that I made from swiss pear as the sheer strakes. The boarding ladder, channels and deadeyes will come later. I'll fit the cap rail after the inboard bulwarks are planked.

hms2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave.

Excellent choice of wood throughout the build.

Model ship's don't need painting if you choose your timbers types like you have done.

Your work is very neat and clean..not a fuzzy edge to be seen anywhere.

 

Regards Antony.

 

 

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In getting prepared to lay the deck beams, I realized that bending the relatively thick stock was going to be a problem. The kit says to "build up" the beams from 2 layers of stock held in shape by nails or pins. When the glue dries the deck beams should be good with the proper camber. How much can go wrong there?  :wacko:

So I asked a friend if he could cut out the 15 deck beams I needed out of beech with his laser. Each beam is 4 mm wide and 3 mm thick. They turned out great! A little trimming and sanding and they fit perfectly. I'm going to start laying the beams and finishing up the hold. You can see the limber boards in the photo. I'm also planning a small section of decking in front of the shot locker where the two transverse mini-beams are in the photo. There are also 4 support pillars in the hold under the orlop deck.  There is no finish on the model except for the well/shot locker.

firstbeam.jpg

Edited by DocBlake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work Dave, I just bought the plans for this model so I'll be watching close to what you are doing:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I completed the orlop deck, but I still need to add the details such as barrels, tables, crates etc that were stored there.  next up in the gun deck.  I'll use blood wood for the waterways and spirketing.orlop1.thumb.JPG.384a8c221dfe22cf1f23e08f0f6322a1.JPG

orlop2.JPG

Edited by DocBlake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some part of me wants the companies to produce something that can be accomplished right out of the box.  The other part of me loves to see how everyone personalizes the builds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...