When Clamps Don't

[mikiek]

Working on my hull planking. This build is a little different in that it doesn't call for a rabbet. Sure I could have added one. I should have added one.

 

I'm left gluing the tips of planks to the stem & stern and I'm having a tough time getting a clamp to stay put there to hold the plank. It wasn't too bad at first starting at the wale and working down. Now I'm about 2/3 finished and I can't get a clamp to hold in place. A rabbet gave the stick something to bite into, to wedge against.

 

I was hoping some of you might post a pic or two  showing how you do it.

[mtaylor]

They "overbending" the plank a bit so it's end is in place.   Dab a bit of CA down the plank (and the end) and put wood glue on the rest. Just don't let the wood glue touch the CA as it cause the CA to quickly cure out.  Put into place and hold for a few minutes to set the CA.

 

The only other alternative is drill some small holes in the framing and bend some pins to hold the strake into place.  

[mikiek]

Hi Mark - yes it seems like I am down to the ole finger clamps. I don't know if it's the cold or what - it's about 50F in the shop - but the CA (medium) is not setting even after a few minutes. Hence the need for something to hold the end down for 15-20 minutes while the wood glue sets.

[Heronguy]

Hi Mike,

 

I don't know if this will help but my approach is to create a temporary mini-rabbet using a small spring clamp.  I also follow Mark's advice to overbend the plank but I don't usually use CA as the clamp will hold it long enough (i.e longer than my thumb can manage!) for carpenter's glue to do its magic.

 

This works on the stems on the ships I've planked.

 

[Chazz]

Micromark sells a set of pin collars that I have found to work well in planking.  It is a set of small knurled brass collars with set screws that fit t-pins so the collars can be set tight to whatever to hold it down, The pin goes in the substrate and can be used to hold the plank (one at a time) close to the last while the collar is set to hold that plank down.

I have found that sharpening the pin with a file, to a rather long point, helps it to enter the wood better and hold better.  T-pins often have a rounded point the eases out readily.  A second thing I've found is that cutting the T-pins shorter, say about  a half inch or so, then sharpening makes them easier to use than full length pins.

I've also found that presetting the collars and hammering the pins tight works better than mere finger pressure.  Takes a little experimenting to get the knack, but they work where other clamps don't.

 

MICROMARK.COM   Pin Collar Set  #84419   16.95   (for about 25)

 

Chazz

[Richard Griffith]

Hi Mike, like Doug does with a spring clamp, I usually use a small metal machinists parallel clamp that has more holding power, as the need arises.  Over bending the plank is also very important.

 

Keep building and above all, have fun.                    Duff

[bogeygolpher]

I think your CA might be old (it will go bad) or you are putting too much into the joint, or the temperature was too cold.  Less is more when using CA.  I have put CA on the tips of every plank I have ever installed installed using PVA everywhere else on the plank with great success and not had to use any pins (nails) or clamps.  Of course I did over bend the planks as well as use the electric plank bender directly on the joint to set the glue faster.

 

Enjoy, it is always a learning experience.

 

Paul

[reklein]

Have you tried using Kicker ? Its a product that comes in a little spray bottle and when applied to the joint causes CA to set promptly. I do not usually spray it but use the pickup tube as an applicator to avoid overspray and waste. CA sets in the absence of oxygen so that what the Kicker does then quickly evaporates.