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Mayflower by Bontie - Constructo - Scale 1:65 - England 1620 - Wooden Kit Ref:80819


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I bought the kit in 2008. This far I have:

  1. Glued the frames to the keelson

 

  1. Glued the decks in place
  2. I am now at the stage where I have to shape the ribs. I am not sure how much I must do this? How is the part that must be beveled measured? The instruction manual mention  marking the the edge of the rib with a felt pen. I'm not sue how and by how much?
  3. I also, on advice, filled the front between the keelson and the front frame with soft wood to make planking easier. Did I do it right? 

Mayflower 25 7 2010 4 (2014_10_25 13_56_56 UTC).JPG

004 (2015_07_10 07_31_53 UTC).JPG

20180108_161830.jpg

20180108_161841.jpg

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6 hours ago, Bontie said:
  • 2  I am now at the stage where I have to shape the ribs. I am not sure how much I must do this? How is the part that must be beveled measured? The instruction manual mention  marking the the edge of the rib with a felt pen. I'm not sue how and by how much?
  • 3  I also, on advice, filled the front between the keelson and the front frame with soft wood to make planking easier. Did I do it right? 

Hello Bontie,

 

I haven't done a kit build, so can't offer advice as to how to go about kit proceedures.  In your question #2 I'm not sure about the marking process but as for the bevelling the bulkheads, looking at your model I would imagine that only the 3 foremost bulkheads would need bevelling . . . and the nearer to the bow the more bevelling is required. Also, possibly the 3 aftmost bulkheads may need a little bevelling. At the bow you have already fitted some softwood fillers, and provided that you have properly formed the compound curves there, then that should act as something of a guide for any bevelling your bulkheads would require in that area.

In the photo below I have used a green and a red circle to highlight what may be a discrepancy in the positioning of these bulkheads. It looks like the one in the red circle may be sitting lower than the one in the green and if that is the case it could cause your planking to be somewhat erratic.

You wouldn't want to have the problem of trying to fix it AFTER the planking is done, so it might be a good idea to check it now when any high areas can still be sanded lightly, and any low areas can be built-up to give an acceptable flow to the planking.

 

It may be an idea to post your  build log in Build Logs For Ship Model Kits  https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/10-build-logs-for-ship-model-kits/  where there is a fair chance that there may be other members who are also building the Mayflower kit.

Hope some of this helps.

Mayflower.thumb.jpg.b7aa04334549c2b6d11372851b46d327.jpg 

Jim.

 

I cut it twice . . . . . and it's still too short!

 

 

HMS Leopard 1790; scratch build 1:80 PoB

Cross Section - HMS Leopard 1790 - 1:44         

        

 

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 Bluto Thank you for the response. I will follow you advice. I did follow the link you provided and posted there but it seems to be at the same place where it was originaly posted? I'm a bit lost on this site. I will spend some time on it to brows the options.

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Hallo Bontie

 

The best advise i can give you is to read these articles first before you start planking.

I did thid too first, they are very helpfull.

And yes,

Your log is better in the forum for ship model kits. You will find more help there

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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  • 3 weeks later...

Looking at the positions of the bulkheads and the advice I got earlier in the thread, I am not sure how to fix this? Should I shave the other bulkheads (green) to be shorter or should I just leave the gap (red) and hope for the best? Please experts help!?5a6da1a4cc45a_BulkheadMarked.jpg.e1bd7a8852f877093deadc8175cdeb2c.jpg

Bulkhead position.jpg

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It looks like your red frame is mounted too high
Glue a strip of wood round the frame
 

I once had a frame that was too low at the top

5a6df296237c4_2016-10-1112_17_07.thumb.jpg.b3d492d655b4c02f8f56a8007c55da62.jpg

 

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

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