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Prince de Neufchatel by rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64


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I've been moving along in the "less fun" portion of the build. This most recent work involved the initial strake of planking, representing the position of the wale. This sets the position of the bulwark/ gunport pieces. I decided, after considerable internal debate, to go with the ply pieces rather than building up the gunport framing. Although they were a pain to deal with, I'm pleased with the result, and I'm doubtful that it would have been better or easier to do it the other way.

 

The first step was to set the upper line of the bulwarks on the bulkhead extensions. Next the lower line was drawn in on the gunport pieces while they were clamped in place.Lastly, the lower portion was trimmed and the pieces finally fitted. I had to wet heat bend  the forward end to get a smooth fit. Before mounting the ply pieces, I glued the laser cut port frames in place and cut and sanded the ports to fit the frames (thanks David Lester for the sequence). After mounting the bulwark pieces, it was necessary to trim down the bulkhead extensions to 1/16". This was tedious work, made a little easier by the fact the bulkheads are basswood, rather than ply. The bulwark pieces were then glued in place, using clamps. The last step was to add 1/16" square framing pieces for further support of the planking.

 

 Finally, I added the ply transom piece, following the same steps as used for the bulwark pieces.

 

Bob

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That looks great Bob

David


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

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good to see you didn't have  alignment problems with the gun ports....seen that way too many times here on the site.    looks good...very neat and tidy :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Bob,

 

Just found and read your build log and will be along for the duration. Looking forward to meeting you in person on Saturday.

 

See you then.

Edited by Osmosis
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That came out nicely Bob. It's been quite awhile but I remember that was a tough part of the build. 

Joe Volz

 

 

Current build:

Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham"

 

 

Completed  builds on MSW:

Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer   Caldercraft HMBV "Granado"   Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's taken a bit, but I've done the planking of the lower hull. A couple of general comments: Since the lower hull will be painted in part and the remainder covered in copper sheathing, the principal concern was to get a smooth, even surface; despite this, I still decided to do the planking in a prototypical pattern, using scale length planks.This meant tapering the planks at  the bow, prebending each plank and beveling the mating edge of  each plank to obtain tight joints. I was able to use only two stealers at the stern and no drop planks at the bow. I've also made a decision that although the kit calls for double planking, I'm not going to do a second layer. I see no reason to do so because of  the copper and paint.The only exception will be to build up the wales.

 

I'm not sure what I'm going to next, because I'm waiting for the imminent reopening of Crown Timberyard to get the boxwood that I need for the upper hull and inner bulwark planking.

 

Bob

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That looks terrific Bob. One nice thing about this model is the hull isn't hard to plank. I did double plank mine, but I have to admit that the whole time I was asking myself "why am I doing this?" I'm going to be using paint and copper sheathing as well.

David

 


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

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Hi Bob -- That's tidy planking.  Every time I check in on your progress, I hear myself saying, ah, so that's how the Prince is supposed to look!  :rolleyes:

 

-- And I think a lot of us are eagerly awaiting the re-opening of Crown.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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hanks so much Joshua, David,Martin,Daveandc the "likes". Much appreciated.

 

Joshua,I have no idea if mine is right.It was really just a guess.

 

David, what are going to use for the copper?

 

Martin, hopefully next week.

 

Dave, I bought the e-book for $14. 

 

Bob

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5 hours ago, rafine said:

It's taken a bit, but I've done the planking of the lower hull. A couple of general comments: Since the lower hull will be painted in part and the remainder covered in copper sheathing, the principal concern was to get a smooth, even surface; despite this, I still decided to do the planking in a prototypical pattern, using scale length planks.This meant tapering the planks at  the bow, prebending each plank and beveling the mating edge of  each plank to obtain tight joints. I was able to use only two stealers at the stern and no drop planks at the bow. I've also made a decision that although the kit calls for double planking, I'm not going to do a second layer. I see no reason to do so because of  the copper and paint.The only exception will be to build up the wales.

 

I'm not sure what I'm going to next, because I'm waiting for the imminent reopening of Crown Timberyard to get the boxwood that I need for the upper hull and inner bulwark planking.

 

Bob

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Wow!   that hull looks real nice  so smooth   she is coming along so well.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Bob, I'm going to do the same thing for the copper as I did for my Constitution. I'm using that self-adhesive copper foil tape, cutting it into individual plates, and creating rivet heads with a ponce wheel. It worked quite well and I got a good result. The only problem is deciding when to do it. You can't do too much to the deck and upper hull first, because then you can't easily invert the hull without it resulting in damage. On the other hand, the copper tape is very fragile and will not tolerate much handling once it's applied. I think I'll check back on my Bob Hunt practicum for the Constitution to see at what point in the build he recommended doing it and use that as a guide.

 

David


Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold)

Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati

 

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the hull looks fantastic!   I've asked myself the same question about double planking....I've only done it to one model.  it seems a waste of planking,  especially if done as well as yours ;)   .....and of course,  with the use of copper and paint.   really nice....well done!!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Thanks so much OC, Enemeink ,Thomas, David,Denis and the "likes".

 

David, I' m also leaning toward using the copper tape, which I've used before, but I might try the Caldercraft plates. j just have no idea how many I would need.

 

Bob

 

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Guest Tim I.
22 hours ago, rafine said:

Thanks so much OC, Enemeink ,Thomas, David,Denis and the "likes".

 

David, I' m also leaning toward using the copper tape, which I've used before, but I might try the Caldercraft plates. j just have no idea how many I would need.

 

Bob

 

Bob,

 

I used the tape. I cut out 1,800 plates, but only applied 840 to the hull of my PdN (I counted them for you). Of course, some were discarded because I was not happy with how they turned out (blemishes or how they laid on the hull). If I was to give you a round number, I would suggest planning for a 1,000.

 

- Tim

Edited by Tim I.
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