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Sprung yards


stevenmh

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I've made a "lathe" using an old drill and had success with the slight tapering required for the main and top masts of my Mimoli Constitution cross-section.  However, when it came to shaping the yards, disaster struck - happened on both the main and topsail yards - the diameter at the ends is supposed to be about 3mm.

IMG_1863.thumb.JPG.ec24b277a4296b8bac6e1ad72e4d9de4.JPG

I'm a bit fearful of trying to shape the top-gallant mast and yard and the royal, since these all need to end up much thinner than 3mm.

 

Is there some trick to this that I am missing?  Do I need a drill with less torque?  Am I making a big mistake using the dowls that came with the kit - if so, what wood would you suggest?

Current Build: HMS Terror 1:75

 

Completed:    USS Constitution Cross Section

                      Pride of Baltimore 1:64

                      USS Cairo Blue Jacket Ships

 

In the Yard:    Smoothbore Naval Deck Gun

                      Brig Syren

                      Medway Long Boat

 

 

 

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Just a guess but that looks like it twisted apart. As a guess maybe the piece was spinning too fast and or whatever you were using to shape it either the tool or sandpaper was putting to much pressure on the wood. Slowing down the speed and or going with a much lighter touch may help. 

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I am assuming one end is chocked up in the drill and they other end is free in the air and there in lies the problem WOBBLE. As you move out towards the thin end your yard is bending and a wobble is developing to the point the yard shatters. You need to design a jig which holds the drill on one end and centers and holds your stock at the other end. You could use a wood screw that you could tighten your stock and Inwould have the drill on some kind of rail system that could accomadate different lengths. Should solve your issue.

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

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Thanks all - yes, I expect the fact that the other end is free supported only by my hand might have a tad to do with the problem...

Current Build: HMS Terror 1:75

 

Completed:    USS Constitution Cross Section

                      Pride of Baltimore 1:64

                      USS Cairo Blue Jacket Ships

 

In the Yard:    Smoothbore Naval Deck Gun

                      Brig Syren

                      Medway Long Boat

 

 

 

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My technique is to PUT ON SAFETY GOGGLES then put on a thick work glove. I fold a pice of sandpaper in half, then in half again on the same axis. I fold it a third time to form a crease. I tuck the spar into the crease and fold the sandpaper over it. Now with the tool rotating I can cradle the whole spinning-spar within the sandpaper “taco” I’ve pinched around it. The sandpaper completely surrounds the spinning spar. I can squeeze my hand to bring more abrasive action to bear on the spar. 

Another techniqu is to use the same set up but instead of folding my hand around the sandpaper, I lay the spar inside the paper on a horizontal work surface and I use my hand to PRESS DOWN on the spinning spar. The solidity of the table and the pressure of my hand prevents wobble and whipping.

in each case I’m using the hand holding the tool to move the tip of the spar in and out of the sandpaper bundle while at the same time varying the pressure with the gloved hand. This helps to make the taper eaven.

on larger spars I rough out the taper with an exacto and this lessens the amount of material that needs to be removed. 

Like all sandpaper operations I use different grades of paper, finishing with fine.

tapering yards is more difficult since you have to duplicate the same taper on each arm. I make homemade sanding sticks by gluing sandpaper onto pieces of lattice and I use these without the spinning tool to knock down the rough exacto cuts and to dress the tips of spars.

  

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 Niagara USS Constitution 

 

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Thanks Frankie, that's very helpful

Current Build: HMS Terror 1:75

 

Completed:    USS Constitution Cross Section

                      Pride of Baltimore 1:64

                      USS Cairo Blue Jacket Ships

 

In the Yard:    Smoothbore Naval Deck Gun

                      Brig Syren

                      Medway Long Boat

 

 

 

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My method is similar to Frankie's. 

 

I leave about an inch past the end of each spar to secure into the drill. I then clamp my drill in the bench vise leaving my hands free. 

 

I try to pre-taper most of the reduction in diameter in advance with knives amd  rough files, and I can easily get down to topgallant yards without issue. 

Joe Volz

 

 

Current build:

Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham"

 

 

Completed  builds on MSW:

Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer   Caldercraft HMBV "Granado"   Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"

 

 

 

 

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I think everyone is going to either laugh, barf or say its the stupidest thing they've heard.

 

When I did the masts and yards on the Victory I used a Dremel sanding drum held the dowel in my hand and worked it back and forth at a medium speed, would check with my micrometer sliding and twisting it down the dowel to check the roundness and diameter and make sure I did not remove to much, when getting close I finished by hand first 2 were not pretty all the others after were spot on.

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Thanks for all the advice - I may have to practice a bit before I trust my hand carving/sanding skills.  

 

Here is my new and improved set-up:

IMG_1903.thumb.JPG.d3bfe3f90d1d4bac6cffe16b314a6b7f.JPG

Current Build: HMS Terror 1:75

 

Completed:    USS Constitution Cross Section

                      Pride of Baltimore 1:64

                      USS Cairo Blue Jacket Ships

 

In the Yard:    Smoothbore Naval Deck Gun

                      Brig Syren

                      Medway Long Boat

 

 

 

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