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moreplovac

Sultana 1767 by moreplovac - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Colonial Schooner

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Following Practicum, i started adding details on cap rail area... First i cut a notch for the bowsprit with a hobby saw and using files the opening was rounded but not completely... The main tweaking will happen at the time of bowsprit installation.

Despite the fact that i do follow practicum, i missed one part. The steam was to short. Good part is it is no just me. Following Chuck's suggestion i will add a piece of wood to lengthen the steam to correct dimensions. This is task for tomorrow...

Now looking at the pictures it looks that notch is a bit wider that needed. Something to deal with at the time of actual bowsprit installation. Bit more work to do. As Chuck mentioned, mistakes do happen...

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Then i worked on hawse holes; marked, drilled and shaped with a file.

 

Gunstocks were made next. Cut a piece of wood, a tin strip of electric tape was simulating iron band but i forgot to drill a hole on the top, for a swivel gun. It  will be a bit hard to do it after but... The other gunstocks will be done with a hole before mounting. Also i simulated trunnels by drilling a small hole and fill it up with wood putty. A nice little detail. Before mounting, i dip both gunstocks into stain, leave it for 15 sec and dry it out with paper towel.

 

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The notch for gunstock was cut in the cap rail, shape corrected with a file and before mounting gunstocks, i run a layer of flat black color on cap rail area where gunstocks will be mounted. This is to prevent messing gunstocks with black color since i am planing to lay one more layer of black color to cap rail before putting a protective layer of varnish.

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Tomorrow few more gunstocks and will work on fixing short steam....

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Not very productive afternoon; went to my post office to pick up scrapers i have ordered few days ago..
Looking forward to make some moldings...
 

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Happy modeling

Edited by moreplovac

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Must have been a very poor day for posting as well. Even the picture didn't work for me! :blink:

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1 hour ago, lmagna said:

Must have been a very poor day for posting as well. Even the picture didn't work for me! :blink:

I dont think it is you, i believe the way i inserted picture was wrong.. It should be OK now.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

The gunstocks are next. The rest of gunstockes were build, 10 in total.

Cut them to the size as per plan; on the bottom i did a small angled cut and shaped each gunstock as per plan.

 

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Each gunstock received a small hole filled with wood filler to simulate trunnel.

 

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The hole for a swivel gun was drilled on each gunstock as well as on two already mounted on the ship. That was a scary part but managed to have it done... To drill holes i put all gunstock on the piece of scotch tape and get them all into vise. Then marked approximate center of the gunstock with pencil, drilled a small pilot hole with hand-drill and with assistance of proxxon rotary tool made first 0.5mm hole than widen it with 1.3mm bit..

 

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All done and ready for electric tape to simulate iron band..

 

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1mm electric tape strip was applied to each gunstock, the drop of cyano glue added additional strength to tape. That tape is fairly stretchable and if stretched to much it will shrink afterwards leaving a gap between two strip ends.

 

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Each gunstock received a quick bath in wood stain.... and here they are, ready for assembly.... but that is something for tomorrow..

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Fitting testing...

 

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Happy modeling..

 

 

Edited by moreplovac

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On 8/18/2018 at 3:04 PM, moreplovac said:

It should be OK now.

You are right I can see them now.

Great work on your swivel cannon mounts. Looks like you are making great progress!

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On 8/22/2018 at 2:41 AM, lmagna said:

You are right I can see them now.

Great work on your swivel cannon mounts. Looks like you are making great progress!

Thank you Lou.

 

 

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Timberheads are next. Those little things gave me some hard time, tiny, hard to keep between fingers but managed to get them all built. I built 30 of them, and picked 14 that happened to sticking out from crowd as best looking. I was thinking to organize a beauty pageant but was not quite sure if i would be able to come up with 14 different "i will fight for a world peace" sentences..

 

For building process i marked all 20 timberheads on one piece of plank, started from the top by sanding edges and with #10 knife, carved the shape and cut of the plank.

 

Building process..

 

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And the winners are ...

 

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Then i added a small pin to each timberhead to make sure it will stay in the place, once mounted and glued.. A small pilot hole was drilled to the bottom of each one, proxxon with .44mm widened the holes and pin glued in the place.

I marked the position on the cap rail for all timberheads, drilled a pilot holes and mounted them all, well not quite all. Still 9 to go. Tomorrow.

 

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Once all are mounted a nice coat of flat black will be painted..

 

Happy modeling..

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, moreplovac said:

14 different "i will fight for a world peace" sentences..

I suspect that timberheads would be more, "Save the tree" types anyway.

 

I do have a question though as my needing to build timberheads is still ahead of me at some point. Why did you make the pieces in two parts instead of one full piece of head and post?  

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13 hours ago, lmagna said:

I suspect that timberheads would be more, "Save the tree" types anyway.

 

I do have a question though as my needing to build timberheads is still ahead of me at some point. Why did you make the pieces in two parts instead of one full piece of head and post?  

 

That could be used as well... Depends on audience...

 

If i understand your question right, the reason for two pieces in stem area is that the stem is actually shorter than needed. It is visible when you test position of bowsprit after opening for it is cut. I did not read Chuck's practicum that diligently so made the same mistake he did... Now a added small "patch" and after all other parts are in place it should be hardly visible (hopefully).

 

Thanks for following..

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Thanks for the explanation. Still not sure why two piece is better than just making them in one piece but I will wait for the pictures. I am sure that they will look good no matter what.

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40 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Thanks for the explanation. Still not sure why two piece is better than just making them in one piece but I will wait for the pictures. I am sure that they will look good no matter what.

It would be much better to get them in one piece but i did not pay attention to that. Following kit plan to the letter get me to this stage and not reading Chuck' practicum ahead of building time, just added a bit of spice to it.

If i would do the stem again, i will make sure i have extra length. This goes into my building notes for future references.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

 

Timberheads completed, just a layer of black paint is left. Usage of pins appears to be really good move. Most likely without pin, timberheads will be very fragile parts. I have left few spares (with inserted pin) just in case something gets horrible wrong..

 

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I have made plenty of plan copies so i can cut it and trace to the timber if needed. I had to make two holes in stem (not quite sure what technical term will be for these two holes), cut and traced the shape ..

 

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.. with a needle point tool made marks on the stem and then drilled holes with 0.44mm.  First with 1mm drill bit and then with 1.3mm the holes were widened. A bit of file sanding and work completed.

On this picture it is better visible that length of the stem is not quite appropriate and extra patch will be needed (or planing ahead and have longer stem at the beginning). 

 

Cheek knees.. another small and tiny parts to deal with.. now, i red Chuck' practicum ahead of time. During the making process i broke three knees. Most likely the wood is either tiny or i was not following wood grain but i ended up using "laminated approach". I glued three planks (1x3mm in size) lengthwise (like this ---), then glued two planks on the top of it ( --) and two another planks on the bottom ( --) getting it all in layers.

 

This should be strong enough to take abuse by #11 knife and other shaping tools.. Since knees will be painted in black visible layers will not be an issue..

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Started to carve...

 

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Completed for today; tomorrow a bit more carving...

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

Edited by moreplovac

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Timberheads are completed and painted in black.

 

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Finished carving of second cheek. Both of them were painted in black and glued to the ship head. Must say that carving is time consuming process especially on these small items.

 

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Then i applied a protective layer of varnish on whole deck and all deck furniture.

 

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That was all for today, not many pictures but time well spent..

 

Happy modeling..

 

 

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I think I understand reason for the timberhead method of build now. I kind of feel stupid, (Not for the first time today either). Thanks for the pictures.

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21 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I think I understand reason for the timberhead method of build now. I kind of feel stupid, (Not for the first time today either). Thanks for the pictures.

 

If more detailed pictures would be beneficial i can snap few extras...

 

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, moreplovac said:

If more detailed pictures would be beneficial

No it is fully clear now. Somehow from your earlier posts on making the Timberheads it looked like you were making the heads and posts separate and were going to join them back together along the bow. Now I see that the posts were just for holding the heads while making them and that the heads only mount to the caprail.

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Continue working on cheeks. Started with making a piece of wood that will be used for carving out of few pieces of leftover planking boards, glued together like in few previous posts. Transfered shape and start sanding and carving..

 

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After light layer of black paint i glued them to the ship head.

 

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Then part of the cheek that extend to the ship was carved next...

 

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This part do require a bit of a curve so quick bath in the water for a few minutes and curved for tomorrow assembly..

 

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Happy modeling..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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After some time spent in bending setup, the head rails were cut, painted and glued to the ship to meet with cheeks already on the stem.

To provide as smooth as possible transition between two parts i used wood filler to fill out gaps. Sanding part will come up tomorrow.

 

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Using wood filler might not be quite acceptable in ship modeling but i think that end result is more important than material used in building process. These pieces are very tiny and fragile so it would be very difficult to make them in one piece. At least for me.

 

Now, lets see how can we build/carve the head rails. I started with laminating few left over parts, boxwood, into one piece acceptable for carving correct shape. The shape was transfered from plans, cut and glued to the wood. So lets begin carving. I must say i am beginner carver, still have challenges visualizing an end result of carving process so this was a good exercise in proper direction. Repetitio mater studiorum est..

 

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After about two hours or carving, sanding, measuring, testing, carving, sanding, retesting.... i was able to come up with a decent result.

 

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Then using my home build scraper, i made a a groove in head rail, then shaped and cleaned it with a piece of sanding paper folding to the size that can fit in the groove. The rail edges were sanded too with 800 sanding paper.

 

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Testing on the ship...

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I must admit that the hardest part of this whole process was testing and retesting. The reason for this is that is extremely hard to hold a ship and carving part in correct position, and mark with pencil extra wood that has to be removed. Unfortunately, only two hands available but managed to have it done...

 

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A bit more shaping so the curve is as smooth as possible and final testing on the ship..

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I am still not 100 percent happy with a groove, it appears to be a bit choppy but will try to clean it tomorrow. In the meantime i made another laminated boxwood piece that will be used for second head rail...

 

Happy modeling..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by moreplovac

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All good i say how do you carve out the centre to make canoe look .i just mean what tools Thankyou

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9 hours ago, Snow said:

All good i say how do you carve out the centre to make canoe look .i just mean what tools Thankyou

 

No special tools, I cut excess wood with a hobby saw and continue carving with carving knife, #11 knife, sanding paper #80, #400 and #800. The time was the most useful tool since plenty of testing, shaping, retesting has to be done. There is no clear, usable plan drawing for this item...

 

Cheers

 

 

 

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Wrapped up head rail building process today... Worked on second head rail, transfered the shape from first one to the piece of wood, carved, shaped, sanded with sanding paper and files.

 

The shape was transfered to the scrap piece of boxwood. Cut excess wood with hobby saw and removed wood with carving tools.

 

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And carving....

 

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more carving..

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checking shape to the original one...

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Making the grove with home made scraper...

 

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Once done with carving, painted the layer of flat black and mount on the ship..

 

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Happy modeling..

 

 

 

Edited by moreplovac

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10 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Well done!  The Sultana was my first real wood ship build.  You are doing a fantastic job of it!

 

Thanks GrandpaPhil,

 

Sultana is my second build but i am contemplating to work on one more, since i have some better understanding what to look for.

I purchased unopened Sultana kit on garage sale for barely any money... but let me finish this one first...

 

Cheers

 

 

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Continued work on head timbers, tiny pieces; i should stop complaining about tiny pieces, should get used to them on Sultana by now...

 

Anyhow, head timbers were build from .5mm think and 2mm wide scrap piece of boxwood. I even used my new scraper and made them to look like moldings, not sure if it is necessary but someone might noticed that detail if come close enough to the ship...

 

Again, combination of Chuck' practicum suggestions, along side with other builders' log and little help from a plan, managed to get them all installed. I decided to do painting later, once they are mounted. It appears to be easier task to do painting later than to hold these in hand while painting. On top of that i had to add some more glue to make stronger bond between head timbers and rails...

 

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Here is first head timber in place; the piece was cut a bit over-sized once glue was dried. This leaves me some room for final shaping with sandpaper.

 

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Then i completed cheek knees building process by making last two parts...

 

The shape was made with scraper,

 

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..short bath in water...

 

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.. and shaping to follow the ship curve...

 

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Mounted and cut to size...

 

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Then i decided to make a head a bit more "complete". Not sure if it is historically correct but it will make the head piece looks better.

 

The empty space between two head rails will be filled up with wood putty and shaped to fill the gap. I used small piece of toothpick to fill bigger gap and rest of it was completed with wood filler.

 

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So, now model wait for a day so wood filler dries out, than shaping and a nice coat of black paint will be applied. The protective coat of varnish will be done as well on all newly build parts..

 

Then i decided to work on a ship's boat...

 

 

 

 

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I will use kit provided boat. It appears to be nicely done so no need to do it from scratch. And i don't have Sultana' ship boat plans to follow.

 

First i marked all parts on the laser cut sheet following markings provided with a kit plan. Kit includes boat building plan but i might deviate from it just because i follow Chuck' practicum. I don't think it is wrong to follow kit instruction, the end result will be similar but practicum provides more details and pictures. And someone already did a hard work on researching so why reinventing the wheels.. 🙂

 

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Started by gluing all six lifts together.

 

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Then started to carve the hull. First marked the shape on the stern...

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.. and with different sizes of sanding paper, files and carving knives managed to get decent shape. At some point started to worry that this small boat will ended up in box-like shape just because there is no much wood to carve. But at the end was not that bad.

 

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Once satisfied with boat shape i glued boat keel. The original keel that comes with laser kit sheet snapped on me so i had to make another one tracing empty spaces on the sheet where keel used to be. The sheet has plenty of extra wood that can be used for this and other purposes.. Definitely will save it for later.. The center line was marked on the ship again, since the first marking i did was removed during hull shaping  process.

 

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A small amount of wood filler was applied between keel and hull to make a hull more visually appealing..

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More sanding will be done next to get final hull shape and continue with inside of the boat..

 

Happy modeling..

 

 

 

 

Edited by moreplovac

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Nice work on the boat. My old kit, (The old yellow box style) didn't come with a ships boat. It looks from your work that at least this boat is build able. Not like the kits that MS sells separately. 

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