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Laying out plans in a smaller workshop


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Hi Al,

 

My rough and ready (but flexible) solution is to use 3x pieces of hardboard duct taped together. 3x pieces, so that they can be easily folded up for storage.

 

Side view of my Plan Holder sitting on a rotating chair. The plan is held in position at the top by two clips. The natural fold at the bottom of the plan can be made to coincide with the lower hardboard join by adjusting the clamping position of the plan at the top.  There is a piece of sheet metal behind the top two sections of the holder to stop the top section flopping backwards. A piece of 6mm thick plywood (or similar) would be just as good.

383454216_hardboarddrawingsupport2.(Copy).thumb.jpg.f16c94f87b729d427cd73a3966e1eecd.jpg

 

There is duct tape on both sides of the 3x joins. The tape was added whilst the 3x pieces of hardboard were folded against each other rather than the 3x piceces lying flat on the floor...that stops the tape tearing when the 3x pieces are folded for storage. The rough side of the hardboard may need additional stapling to stop the tape coming off.

 

The plan holder also acts as a temporary 'workbench' and is a bit lower than my desk (so easier to work on mast ropes etc) and the chair can rotate appx +/- 90 deg for slightly easier access to the rear of the model (but not as good as a proper Lazy Susan).

1421452478_hardboarddrawingsupport1(Copy).thumb.jpg.bff7bb8dc3f3299b6703a6b688f4c3f2.jpg

 

I wouldn't leave the ship sitting on the holder 'workbench' unattended if there are other people using the room since it is quite easy to nudge the holder's corner as you move past it.

 

Regards,

 

Richard

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My workshop has absolutely no floor space left so I couldn't use an easel as intended. The solution was a piece of 1mm steel sheet from the local blacksmith (£5) screwed to the wall above the workbench. It is big enough to take A1 size plans and magnets do all the work. For what it is worth, I have a policy of never putting shelves above a workbench (ask me how I know what can go wrong... ) and am very pleased with this arrangement now that it is in place.

The picture below was taken immediately before beggining work on my Mediator and I assure you the bench does not look so clear now but the wall is unaffected by events below.

DSCN6536.thumb.JPG.3957f2a72c00aa1ce3edbbfc1d90136e.JPG

 

A new trick I discovered: a short steel ruler is now always stuck on the plan with magnets, always there when I look for it. Also, the small LED lights with magnetic bases originally for use on the mill and bandsaw are very handy to attach in any position above the workbench so I am ordering a further one, a bit bigger.

HTH,

Bruce

 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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I have known magnetic lamps hung overhead to let go if bumped.    The ones on my bandsaw and drill press like to do this just to hear me curse.

 

Bob

Bob

current build                               past builds

Mayflower - Model Shipways - 1:76.8                              USS Peary (DD 226) - Tehnoart Ltd - 1:96 (gallery)

upcoming builds                                                                     USS DeHaven (DD 727) - Tehnoart Ltd - 1:192

Statenjacht - Kolderstok - 1:50                                            USS Robert E. Peary (FF 1073) - 1:250

Fluytschip - Kolderstok - 1:72   

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16 minutes ago, rcweir said:

just to hear me curse.

I admit when I got the first one I was wary of this but (maybe luck) mine stay put unless given a good wallop.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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