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Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48 - FINISHED


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  • 3 weeks later...

Back in the shipyard after time in the mountains for Christmas and New Years.

I was going to put one decorative stripe just above the wale, so I spiled a thin strip, hand thickness-sanded to 3" (1/16") stained with India Ink and installed just above the wale.

CC_DecoStrake1.jpg.56e3f940c6719168d9e962f5e735645f.jpg

CC_DecoStrake2.jpg.ccf0f5f5eae0fe4d52f5402bdfc8c244.jpg

It's much cleaner this way than me trying to pain a perfect line.  On to the garboard planks.

Maury

Edited by Maurys
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Garboard plank (Port side).  The plank is interrupted by the centerboard well on the port side so there are only two pieces. A thin batten was laid and each frame carefully marked.  Then the distance from the rabbet to the mark on each frame was laid out on the bass wood and a ships curve used to determine a smooth line. I like working with sacrificial wood (Bass, 1/32") rather than card to make templates.  It can be sanded for a better fit and it actually twists like the final plank.  First pic. is the aft portion laid out on the bass.

CC_GbdPlkTemplate1.thumb.jpg.bdb27564c8bef95019b020edfa8eb3e0.jpg

Second is the template cut out.

CC_GbdPltTemp2.thumb.jpg.acb58432465d1e7c16657657a995f701.jpg

and the third pic. is a shot of both fore and aft templates.

CC_GbdPlkTemp3.thumb.jpg.a48b53a9456278e33fa8a29421243be9.jpg

The "wavy pattern" of a garboard plank can be seen clearly.  Using these templates, I'll cut the final pear planks.  Sorry about the quality of the photos.

Maury

 

 

 

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1/32" Bass is about the thickness of card, can be sanded for small adjustments and twists like wood...and for what else will I ever use all that stuff I bought 15+ years ago.😀

M

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Garboard planks installed both sides.

CC_Garb1.jpg.20d8fd27579fa3ffa69ea7aa9d9b69f2.jpg

CC_Garb2.jpg.5e9a193d9c2a1f5196c0eab29668cc57.jpgCC_Garb4.jpg.b8388748f3df2e50ccd15a4dd3d31e76.jpg

Now I have to lay out the bands for the planking.

 

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Nice clean work, Maury. However, to my eye, in the first photo the garboard twist is a bit 'off' over the 3rd to 6th frame, counting from aft. More fairing needed there, perhaps? Feel free to ignore my unwanted comment!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Druxey, Comments Always appreciated.

It does look odd.

I laid out the lower band.  I like David Antscherl's method using a thread with a little white glue.  The bands are of uneven strakes because of where they land in relation to the frame at the stern.

CC_PlankBand1.jpg.d6fb48929a600fd616b73a8f8dea1fe6.jpg

CC_PlankBand2.jpg.c4d700f64b67b7af4ec9d1b42e6f5949.jpg

A few minor tweaks to get them smooth.

Maury

 

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Re. the twist, I hoped clamping and the heat gun would fix it.  So far so good.

CC_Garb5.jpg.8ff4d0efb03686e4763cb6a3f0cb9d65.jpg

Old on top, revised below.

CC_Garb1.jpg.ef8d5e0dc338ba009bac65f21aa53145.jpgCC_Garb6.jpg.8b197ccf2a1fc77d0a63edd6f3c643a5.jpg

Maury

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I test-fitted a strake above the garboard and it seems way too thin at the bow.  It's actually a hair less than 1/2 the width of the strake at DF.  That means two or three drop strakes.  Question arises...which pattern?  2:1 or 3:2.  Is there a standard?  Either way would reduce the number of strakes by two or three (from 16 to 14 or 13) at the bow and bring the width up to > 1/2 of the width @ DF.

Comments?

Maury

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Back to the drawing board on the planking plan.  I've cut the number of strakes between wale and garboard at DF to 14 from 16.  That makes the width at 9.1" at the DF frame.  The butt pattern stays the same...just eliminated strakes 1 and 16.  Three drop strakes (pattern 3:2) near the bow (@ Frame "I" where the foremost butts occur) yields a plank width of 6" at the bow.  All those tick strips I made will be redone and the lines on the frames erased.  I still have to see what I can do about fair line of the wale on the port side forward.  It  just doesn't look right.

Maury

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First plank above garboard on port side.  Straight forward, spile, sand to adjust, fit, glue, clamp.

CC_Planking2.jpg.d66578312b3abdd97603960012bcf630.jpg

Maury

CC_Planking1.jpg

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Planking continues.  Each piece is spiled.  I find using the 1/32 bass is so much easier than card for making patterns.  Below is the pattern (laying flat) for the lower edge of the fore part of plank 10 (second up from the garboard). 

CC_SpilePattern.jpg.e8fa0c92b653e1dc29b7817478fb6ee8.jpg

The pattern is transferred to 1/16" pear. Once that edge is correct, then the width is marked at each frame location.  A ships curve is used to form the line.  After it is cut, it's (heat) twisted, bent and glued.

Maury

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  • 2 weeks later...

Planking continues (slowly).  Three strakes above the garboard are done.  Notice the garboard needs some scraping to better line up with the adjacent plank.

450185617_C_Planking3strakes.jpg.a744d2f926f344aa8186e67c55778bc6.jpg

CC_Planking3strakes.jpg.0d915d6ecb9fc8f0e9b7d26188a12724.jpg

I started on the first drop plank.  Carefully...

CC_DropPlank1.jpg.d0e5d9f270917fb0ce0a30447720035d.jpg

It still has to be bent to form.

Maury

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Planking continues.

CC_PlanksClamped.thumb.jpg.43f935152b2a3ba6be470eaf510c209b.jpg

CC_DropPlank0.jpg.7de2ac563832d47e5f127ae0a44d9c0f.jpg

CC_DropPlank2.jpg.a4dc63a0208608a7ed82a797092c3c25.jpg

Maury

 

 

Edited by Maurys
added pic
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Planking continues...

CC_Planking6.jpg.ebe5b69b05d9782a34e4d8f3b8554dcb.jpg

CC_Planking5.jpg.a9b7c8eb9402521315a8c57f92a9273d.jpg

I'm getting close to finishing the first band of planking.  Once done, I'll decide which side I'll leave partially exposed.

Maury

 

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The lower planking band is done.  Views from outside and inside.

CC_LowerPlankingBand1.jpg.03fa3f9ceac842b324e92f7c489bd4f3.jpg

CC_LowerPlankingInterior.jpg.8aabe3c0b0a7d666b713622de3e57623.jpg

A lot of sanding to be done.

Maury

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

I do not like the way the lower planks are turning out at the bow.  I think it's a matter of the garboard not ending correctly.

CC_PlankingProb1.thumb.jpg.aa5d02b63398cfee11cdf607735fabf3.jpg

CC_PlankingProblem2.jpg.537633f228aaca5fa95e5a65781ece7e.jpg

It looks fine when upside down and straight on, but from the side, I do not like the "bump" (more obvious on the second photo).  It's not going to get better, so I think the lower planking needs to be replaced.  I think if the garboard is re-done per the pencil line, it will be OK.  A lot of work to be undone, but I am just not happy with the lay of the planks.

Maury

 

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Ooooh That looks painful Maury, Do you have to replace the whole garboard or can you just remove a portion of it?

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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1 hour ago, Maurys said:

It looks fine when upside down and straight on, but from the side, I do not like the "bump" (more obvious on the second photo).  It's not going to get better, so I think the lower planking needs to be replaced.  I think if the garboard is re-done per the pencil line, it will be OK.  A lot of work to be undone, but I am just not happy with the lay of the planks.

Maury

 

I agree with you Maury. As painful as it is to tear it out. If you aren’t happy with it now, you won’t be happy later. I think your new pencil line of the end of the garboard looks about right. The previous placement was too far forward. 

 

 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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You might consider ending the garboard just forward of your pencil line so that it does not end at the keel/stem joint. See how many strakes will comfortably fit above that into the stem without needing a drop strake.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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The forward planks down to and including the garboard have been removed and the re-shaped garboard planks are now in. I think I can leave much of the former planking in place.  Druxey, the re-shaping allows me to eliminate one of the drop planks.  These boats are so wide amidships that drop planks are the only way of keeping a plank no less than 1/2 the width at DF.

Maury

 

 

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I can see that one drop strake is needed, but it was the second one I was referring to. Sorry if I was not clear! See sketch below. There should be a nice easy run of strakes to the bow.

maury plank.jpg

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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thanks Druxey.  This helps a lot

Maury

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