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Maurys

Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48

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Ed, I did use a spacer in the CB well when I was gluing up the frames.  I think it's an illusion in that pic.  The next post will show all the keelsons glued in place with the centerboard in the well.  One side of the well will be fully planked.  The other not so much.  The challenge has been to keep the pivot pin aligned as it must go through all the keelsons, the CB well planking and the centerboard.

Thanks for your comments...always appreciated.

Maury

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All the keelsons are in.  There are several pieces holding things together since the frames set into the side of the well.  The cross section design was shown in an earlier post.

A note about the simulated bolts.  The use of the monofilament line came from Ed Tosti (EdT).  I have developed a technique with the line after several models.  If I can pre-insert them I do so.  This involves slicing a taper in the line to aid in insertion in the drilled holes.  I push the line through the hole from the finished side of the plank or beam, dip it in CA and pull it back through the hole until flush on the under side.  Then it is clipped off with flat nippers.  This way, there is no CA residue that needs to be wiped off (with acetone...nasty stuff).  I also run a soldering iron over the exposed ends of the line, which finishes it off more like a bolt head.

CC_Keelsons1.jpg.9b87fc97e975defb5beead0a5ee6e3a4.jpg

CC_Keelsons2.jpg.75318966be82a9a7328c6ffb0fd39d6f.jpg

CC_Keelsons3.jpg.fe06327ef6038aa5f424c04ecdcd980e.jpg

 

Maury

 

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Sweet.  Thanks for answering my question.

 

Ed

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Some additional internal fairing needed to be done.  Installing the clamps comes next.  Spiling the internal plank is a bit different from the external planks.  I started with some card stock taped inside the frames and marked the height of the bottom of the deck from the bottom of the false keel at every three frames on the card.  I then marked down the thickness of the deck beams.  I used a ships curve to connect the marks and cut out a template.  Card bends differently from wood so I transferred the card template to some sacrificial bass wood and made the necessary adjustments to the rough shape.  

CC_Clamp2.jpg.1cd67c0e26a163c33a1e63322139d32e.jpg

The top edge is the one that counts.  Clamping the plank in place showed a little more trimming was necessary.  Everything now fits smoothly.  

CC_Clamp1.jpg.918d1e1ca83afead7166ddcbf3b6c1e6.jpg

I'll transfer this form to the Swiss pear that will be used for the final clamp.  Now to repeat on the port side and do the same for the quarterdeck.

Maury

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Clever idea using some sacrificial wood for the template, Maury.

I like the gauge that you are using to transfer the info from the drawing, do you have any further details about it?

 

Michael

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On 7/26/2018 at 8:21 AM, Maurys said:

CC_CantFrJig2.jpg.df0ebe4e7b4dbcba8e8f9b57a08d880a.jpg

      I really like those adjustable handscrew clamps shown above!  Are they homemade?  While I inherited some larger versions of them and they were quite handy for furniture making, they are way too big for model making.  I have seen small versions of them on the market but they are usually quite expensive.

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Dave, They are hand-made, right out of Ed Tosti's books.  (Probably Naiad).  Mine are very simple since I don't have a way of having a left-handed as well as right-handed threaded rod.

Maury

Edited by Maurys

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On 7/28/2018 at 6:55 PM, druxey said:

In the case shown above, it's an off-centerboard! Usually the keel widens and the board passes through it centrally

    Maury, your ship reminds me of one of my first solid wood hull kits from A.J. Fisher from back in the 60's called the Challenge.  Her centerboard was smaller and did pass right thru a thickened keel, as druxey mentioned above, that cleared the base of the masts allowing them to remain centered.  She was a shoal, flat-floored, sharp-ended, two masted great lakes clipper-schooner built in Manitowoc WI. in 1851-2.  She reportedly could easily make and maintain a speed of 13 knots.

    Here is a photo of her below.  Admittedly it was a much simpler and smaller model (1/8" scale) than yours but back then my skill level was not that good yet. (As a mater of fact the boat at the stern was actually taken from an old plastic ship kit.):blush:  According to the blueprints the deck house was not always a common feature, but I thought it looked pretty good anyway.  I built her for a former coast guardsman (that had been stationed on the Great Lakes) turned policeman for just the price of the kit so I could buy the next one. :P

challenge.png.78e54870f290fdeee8e48af6550b9839.png

    I also found these two illustrations (note the deck house is shown) of the ship in my copy of The History Of American Sailing Ships by Howard Chapelle that are shown below.

100_4931.thumb.JPG.468aae891345725af5611053049098a6.JPG

100_4930.thumb.JPG.5b6218c411e8c6a22c630081f263789a.JPG

       As you can see their were a lot of similarities between the ship designs.  Good luck with your build.  Looks like you will be busy with her for quite some time yet.

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Dave,  The Challenge was one of the boats I considered.  As it turns out, the C.Chase has very little information and Chapelle's notes don't go very far in the description.  On the other hand, with all the info. I've gathered (with the generous help of many maritime researchers and historians) on these types of boats, there seems to be ample data to complete the model, and no one will be able to challenge the smaller details.

Maury

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The clamps for the main deck are installed on both sides.  Shown below are those on the starboard side.

CC_Clamp1Stbd.jpg.3def78f1e08ae7285aa8f30baa536ee2.jpg

CC_Clamp2Stbd.jpg.49b986914bebf5a5bb81347bc75858cf.jpg

Test beams were laid across at various points and everything is fair.  Now on to the clamps for the quarterdeck.  Much tighter fit there.

Maury

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Looking sweet, Maury.  Getting those deck clamps in really ties it all together - and soon no more spacers.

 

Ed

Edited by EdT

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Hello Maury,

 

she looks to be strongly built as a boat - how large in actual size are the ribs & their spacing? I assume they are sawn pieces rather than bent...?

 

They have a very interesting shape, quite dishy for a sizeable vessel.

 

thanks, Mark

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Ed,

I'm anxious to get those spacers out. It's rigid enough now to take it off the board and work on fairing the frames on the outer edge.   I think there is a minor twist from dead flat aft so I'll have to deal with that.   Mark, Early in the log you can see the process of building the frames.  Each is lofted separately.  They are 6" (1/8" at scale) paired.  The spacing is 12".

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While waiting for glue to dry, I set up the jig for the two ladders on the boat.

Basically right out of Greg Herbert's TFFM Vol. 3.

CC_LadderJig.jpg.10a2ccdaba1ead716f77521b9171419b.jpg

The flat top sits on top of a spine to fit in the mill vise.  The sides will be cut to length later.

Maury

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