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Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale


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  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a crazy two weeks.  My Daughter is all set up at college and a room has opened up for my Mother In Law in assisted living.  I will be moving her in this week so she is all settled by Friday....hopefully.   Which one will get homesick and ask to come home first, LOL.😂

 

Anyway, its been a while since I had an update but I have fallen behind a bit understandably.   I painted the cap rail and inboard sheer strake.  I did this first before adding the knee at the bow below.  I still have some touch up and repainting to do there but you can see the results so far.   I have dozens of more coats of paint before I am going to be satisfied with the finish.   

 

kneebow.jpg

I have also been creating and testing the frieze for the transom.  Here is one such test where a sample is temporarily tacked into position.  The size and shape is good and I am finalizing the color and design.  Its getting close though even though this photo seems a bit washed out because of the lighting.

 

freizetesttransom.jpg

Here is an image of the frieze on the contemporary model. I am not sure yet if I will paint the white border and the edges of the molding on this model.  But we shall see as things develop.

 

transomcontmodel2.jpg

In addition i did start simulating the nails in the planking.  I am using 10lb black mono filament (fishing line).  Its going well but will take a good amount of time.  I held the hull up to the light so I could accurately mark the locations for the frames.   I couldnt start work on the interior with the floorboards and platforms until this is completed.   Remember that these are nails and not wooden treenails. I wouldnt have been able to see the frames through the planking with those installed.  So once this is completed I will move to the interior details.   So this project is moving along even though it slowed down getting the two girls set up in their dormitories...LOL.   I will post more details when I get some time to breath.....

 

simnails.jpg

 

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Thanks Dirk

 

For nails I used 10lb black fishing line.  Holes were drilled with a #77 drill bit.  Then a sanded the holes lightly to remove any burrs from drilling.  The fishing line was dipped in titebond and inserted into each hole.  I worked on one frame at a time as shown.   Once dry they were sliced clean away with a straight razor.  Then some light sanding.   Thats it.

 

The port side is completed now and I am really hope to get the starboard side done quickly.   We shall see.  More pics below.

 

nails1.jpg

 

nails.jpg

nails2.jpg

nails3.jpg

 

 

 

Chuck

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Titebond or Weldbond for the monofiliment?  I seldom have success with Titebond on non-wood material.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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I’m sad I found this build so late but wow! Cool project Chuck. I’m looking forward to when the kit will be available as it looks like I may have found a nice smaller project to give me a break from my larges ones. 

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

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Chuck...Titebond works really well for this.  Remember that there is no tension on the filament. It is placed in a hole.  Then after you apply Wipe on Poly it also seals the fishing line in.   There is no issue at all as long as you wait for the glue to dry before you slice off the excess whiskers.

 

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Beautiful build Chuck. This one’s in my future for sure. 

 

Ian 

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Really like that filament method. If practical, what filament size would you use for a 1/64 (3/16) ship?

Thanks, Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

                     

 

Under Construction:       USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

Completed:                     F-35A 1/48 by Tamiya

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                                    Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                    HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

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                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                  USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

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                                  USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                  USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                          Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Started,On Hold:     Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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I would probably use this size which is 10 lb but I wouldnt use black.  I would get a brown color and experiment.   I am not sure I would use this to simulate treenails though.   I would only use the black stuff in various sizes to simulate bolts and nails.

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The accolades just keep coming don't they. Me thinks if I add even more than I have, in the past, they will overflow your "kudos" jar. What I would reflect on is your marketing strategy, deliberate or not. Not only do you possess an incredible level of creativity and craftsmanship but you have found a way to connect with the community at large like no other. In doing so you have generated such an avid following and interest for your works. It is exciting to follow your thread and this future offering may exceed your fondest wishes, I fear. It was a good pick to start with. I await patiently your release of the product but I have no illusion about the fulfillment dilemma to come.

Joe

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Thanks Joe,

 

Fulfillment will always be an issue.   I make these kits because I want to build them myself and its just the logical next step to also want to make it available to everyone else.   As a one man shop it will be tough in the beginning to fill orders but that is why I am making this an NRG/MSW exclusive.   This project will only be available to MSW members.   In fact, to buy any part of it you must enter your MSW username in my store.  This will keep orders a bit more reasonable but maybe even drive up MSW membership.   If most buy the starter package and just scratch the rest it wont be that bad to make all of these.   I am actually already starting to laser cut the starter kits and keep them ready.   They will be ready as soon as the plans and instructions are finalized.   

 

I will then work on the rigging plans and instructions after that.  But the rigging plan including templates for all the sails will be available for free as a download here.  Of course everyone can buy the material from me for the masting and rigging but this also gives folks an option to get that stuff anywhere....especially across the pond.   So its a bit of a unique project for me that shouldnt be as difficult to produce as the barge.  That frenzy has ended though and I can easily keep barge kits on the shelf now.  Its just the first six months or so that is crazy.  

 

This isnt going to be a money maker for me.....its going to be a fun maker for me and I am eager to get a group started on our forum.  I am excited to build this in a group with my local club where maybe a dozen of us will get together and actually work on it a few afternoons each month.  If I could find a laser cutter with  enough Cedar or swiss pear on hand that I didnt have to ship to them, I would probably outsource the laser cutting to lighten the load so I can immediately start work on the cross section and Winnie again.  I guy can dream cant he?

 

 

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6 hours ago, Chuck said:

Chuck...Titebond works really well for this.  Remember that there is no tension on the filament. It is placed in a hole.  Then after you apply Wipe on Poly it also seals the fishing line in.   There is no issue at all as long as you wait for the glue to dry before you slice off the excess whiskers.

 

I'll experiment with QAB.

 

My plan is to stain.  Should I nail before staining or wait until after to avoid glue gop issues?

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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I have no idea....I didnt stain and only used a poly finish.  I am not sure how well cherry takes stain so make sure you experiment on scrap first.

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Thank you Chuck for all you do for the hobby! I'm going to be saving up for this kit. I'll wait until the regular kit release though. My shop will not be ready for the group build, and I already have 3 ships in various stages that I need to at least get a couple finished before I could start on this one.

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Thank You guys for kind words and support.

 

Here is a quick look at some images of the plans as they are in development.   Still lots of work to do on these but they are getting close.  They wont be finalized until after I finish the hull but this will give you an idea of what this project will look like.  And yes (before anyone asks) the images are altered and no parts shown will enable them to be pirated.....these are just pretty pictures at this point and all parts templates are on sep sheets.😊

med2.jpgmed1.jpg

 

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Looks great Chuck.  I like the  more full and round bow and stem as opposed to the smaller 1:48 version. The increased sheer is also a nice touch.

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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They are indeed very very different models!!  I will post a photo of both side by side when I get  bit further along

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Thanks Chuck,  that will be a good compare contrast.

 

I incorporated some of the changes you added to your 1:24 version to my current build of the 1:48 version....unwittingly of course.  I guess great minds think alike.  😀  The hull shape is what it is, so I kept that or I would have built the hull from scratch.   My build link is in my signature line. It isn’t the quality of your build, but then again, few are.  😉

 

 

cheers

 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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I don't know how many people will be able to start in this group but I would like to be in it if possible. If not in the first wave maybe the second.

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Chuck,

 

Did you darken the edges of the planks to define the planking?  In some of the closeup shots, it looks like the seams are a little darker than just a shadow.  Beautiful planking, regardless.

 

James

Maine

Past projects:  Galway hooker; Durham boat; Mayflower shallop; Irish seagoing currach; James Caird; Cornish fishing lugger; Pitcairn Island longboat; Bounty launch.

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