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Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale


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Erik....Does this help?   You should join the group.  What would be better to get your ship model juices flowing again.  The new model is abut 15 -16" long for the hull.  Then you have to of course add the mast ...yards and rigging. 😊

 

sizecomparison.jpg

sizecomparison1.jpg

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Still interested for sure!

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

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Still interested. This longboat is a beauty !

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • Santa Maria boat - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:24
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Yes......more or less.   For a complete kit of all of the parts you will need to complete the hull (including friezes) it would cost $170 -  $175.   That is all cedar with boxwood accents.   

 

I am not sure what the starter package will cost which I originally stated would include the keel parts and frames along with the plans and base board. That was originally going to come in at around $110.  But then folks wanting to scratch the remaining parts including the planking would still need to buy the cedar sheets to complete the hull.  It doesnt make economical sense to have a starter package because after you buy the additional wood sheets you will need, it would end up costing about the same anyway.   But if you guys still want it, I will provide one.  I thought most would see that it doesnt make economical sense and instead would rather have all the laser cut parts anyway.  I am not pricing this kit to far beyond the materials and laser costs.   I want to see more people join the group and build the kit together.

 

The kit has about 25 laser cut sheets and additional strip wood, brass strip, wire and fishing line etc.....and the printed friezes.

 

What do guys think?  I think its quite affordable considering the new 1/2" scale MS kit which is basswood will cost you about $125.   I think its well worth an additional $50 considering the differences in the two kits.

 

The rigging package will follow but in all honesty you guys can get that stuff anywhere....I am thinking another $30 - $35 or so but it depends on the sail materials or silkspan.   But you guys can pick that stuff up anywhere.  Rope, blocks, wire, brass strips, Deadeyes and sail material with a flag.  The original hull kit will come with the rigging and sail plans.

 

Chuck

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175.00 is more than reasonable for what your getting. Will there be a hard copy of the instructions with the kit or is that something that would be downloaded?

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That will just be a PDF to download like every other kit monograph/instructions I write.  It keeps costs down.

 

Chuck

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Thanks guys.   Its time to make the windlass.  Some people may get nervous about shaping a piece of wood like this.  But if you just take your time and go slow it will go well.   I created templates that will be glued to all four sides of a 3/8 x 3/8" stick of cedar.   I used a glue stick to attach the templates.  Note how the stick is left a bit longer than the templates.  The ends will be rounded eventually to a cone shape.  I will wait to check its fit before I do that and trim each end to fit the space.

 

windlass.jpg

Then the corners were removed and sanded down to match the template as shown below.  I used a sharp #11 blade initially to remove the material quicker.  I shaved off the corners carefully and stopped just short of the line ob the templates.   Then I finished it up with 320 grit sandpaper.  I also drilled the holes for the windlass bars.  I used a #40 drill bit.   

 

windlass1.jpg

The templates were removed easy enough by wetting them down and then they come right off.  I cleaned up the edges a bit by sanding and tweaking the edges until it looked nice and crisp.  Then I used my #11 blade again to carefully square up those holes.  The finished windlass up to this point is below.  Remember that I still have to reduce the ends to a cone shape so the windlass fits inside the brackets along the risers inboard.  That isnt a finished handle for the windlass.  That is just a 3/32" x 3/32" strip test fit in each hole.   I used a boxwood strip which is a hard wood.  It helped to make the square holes nice and crisp.  Just push them into the holes gently.  You can use any square strip this size even a brass strip which I didnt have handy.

 

windlass2.jpg

 

You can see the windlass in the contemporary model below.....next I will be shaping the ends and adding the brackets so it can be installed.

 

halflb3.jpg

 

 

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Hi Chuck,

 

Great work while I've been away. I love the workmanship and the size comparison was real nice to see.

The price point is very reasonable too. At that you better make a whole lot of kits!  

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48  Duchess of Kingston

 

Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Getting close!  Your pricing seems more than reasonable to me, and I am definitely still in for the group build.  The sooner the better!  :)

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I’m definitely still in too, Chuck, and your pricing is more than reasonable.

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Chuck; are you still looking for individuals to take part in the build? I'm not a great modeler but would like to be part of the group if space permits. In any event.... this build log is awesome!!!! Moab (aka Allan Glass)

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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Thanks Allan.  Anyone can join in.  I will say once more though,   this is not a beginner model project.  It is very challenging.  But its hard for me to judge because I designed the thing.  Having said that,  I am sure that within a group environment there will be much encouragement and many ideas and suggestions to help you problem solve.  That is the power of a group project.   I learn things every day from folks and many of those tricks and tips were used while I built the prototype.

 

Chuck

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FYI.....as some have asked for dimensions of rigged model.   Rigged, this model will 23 1/2" long and 18 1/4" tall.  😊

This is the rigging plan for those that wont want to add sails...

 

26ftlaunchsheetonehalfsheet3.jpg

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Ok Guys.....put your thinking caps on.  What if any type of flag (1742) should we fly on the mast?   Lets see some images...

 

gb~rens.gif

 

Chuck

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I personally like the red one above. But that's just my preference. 

 

 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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Is there a historical relevance to the flag colours? , I have seen blue used as well. The biggest errors that people usually pick up on are:

 

it being mounted upside down;and

changes made as other countries were absorbed into or  joined the union, I am sure the Stars and Stripes has changed similarly.

 

 

If I have interpreted things correctly, a rarity, the one you are showing doesn't seem to have come into use until 1801 however I am sure there are some Union Jack experts on the site who can advise better than me.

Edited by Richmond

Current Builds

Mikasa by I Love Kit - 1:200 - Plastic

HMS Beagle by Occre - 1:48 - Wood

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Richmond is correct.  That Red Ensign doesn't have the 'red X' for Ireland.  You want this one.

BritishRedEnsign.jpg.4923ef2d946d5586ad73ecea1c8a061b.jpg

Edited by KenW

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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The colour of the flag was based on what Fleet the ship belonged to.

The Admiral of the Fleet chose the colour. It could be Red, Blue, or White.

The Red Cross is the English Flag, or the Flag of St. Andrew. The White 

Cross with Blue back round is the Flag of Scotland.

This is the Union Flag of 1705. The Flag of the Royal Navy, as we know it was

used from 1865 on. The White Flag with the Union Flag in the upper corner and 

the cross of St. Andrew

 

 

 

 

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Here's a link I found that basically tells you all you might want to know about British Naval Ensigns (including streamers.

https://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/gb-enshs.html

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I corrected my error on my earlier entry.  The red ensign was used by all civil and military ships not under the command of the Admiral-of-the-Blue or the Admiral-of-the-White.

Edited by KenW

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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The Windlass is completed and installed.   All I had to do was reduce the ends of the windlass until they were cone shaped and able to fit into the slots of the brackets.  I just dis this by hand a little at a time with some sandpaper.  I constantly tested and adjusted the cone shape until it slid into the slots easy enough.  This meant shortening each side slightly.

 

The brackets are laser cut.  I removed the char and added the bolts while off the model.  I used black fishing line as usual.  The brackets are glued directly to the riser between the thwarts but actually under them.  This left a space on the bottom edge between the frames and the bracket as expected where it hangs below the riser.  So before gluing it into position, I added a 1/16" x 1/16" strip to the back, bottom edge of the bracket first.  This made it so the bracket was seated firmly against the frames and riser.  Before adding the bolts I held the bracket against the riser so I could mark the locations for them.  You can see how some line up with the frames.  While others are just into the riser.  This detail is shown on the plans.

 

The two windlass bars were shaped from a 1/8" x 1/8" strip.  I just rounded off one end as you see below by chocking it in my hand drill.   Then I squared off the other end as shown on the plans so they would fit in the square holes of the windlass.  I will only show one in position and just rest the other atop the thwarts.  But in the photos you see both installed just for the fun of it.

 

windlass3.jpg

 

windlass4.jpg

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Just under the thwarts but on most cont. models one is shown in place and the other rests on top of the thwarts.  The mast was portable and not permanently stepped remember.   They would unhook the rigging and store that as well.

 

Everything about the rigging and masts were portable so the boat could be brought onboard the frigate and stored at the waste.

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Moving along to the mast thwart...

 

The ironwork was fairly straight forward.   I used 1/16" x .025 brass strip to make the three straps needed to hold the mast in position.   I of course drilled the three holes for the two bracket straps while the brass strip was flat   (#74 drill bit).   I used the plans to find their placement.  Then I bent the two brass straps to shape around some scrap wood the same thickness as the thwart.  The final iron strap was bent around a 3/8" dia. drill bit because that is how big the mast will be.  Then I bent back the ends so I had a half circle remaining.   Then the three pieces were blackened and glued into position.

 

mastthwart.jpg

Once glued into position below....I drilled through the holes in the straps part way.  Then I inserted small lengths of 24 gauge black wire into each hole.  I carefully filed them down so they stood proud of the straps and looked like bolts.  Then I touched up the blackening a bit.

 

mastthwart1.jpg

I turned the four belaying pins from 1/16 x 1/16 boxwood strips in my dremel.  I use the flex shaft with the small pen-sized head while I turn the belaying pins to shape.  Here is a photo of Mike's belaying pins from Cheerful which are done the same way.

belaying pins.jpg

And this is what they look like finished on the thwart.

 

mastthwart2.jpg

 

Next I will complete the knees along the sides of this thwart and the forward -most thwart.   That will complete most of the interior work before rigging starts.  Although I will make some oars and a grapnel too.  😄  That will leave the rudder and tiller and a few last details and the hull will be completed. and ready for rigging.

 

mastthwart3.jpg

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