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Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale


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Chuck

 

That windlass really came up well. The template was a great idea. The thwart and the pins look fantastic especially considering how small a detail you are working with.

 

Still can't see any fingerprints, smudge marks, dirt and the like on the build, either your work practices are very clean or your an expert on photo shop. :).

 

Richmond

Edited by Richmond

Current Builds

Mikasa by I Love Kit - 1:200 - Plastic

HMS Beagle by Occre - 1:48 - Wood

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Very cool! 👍

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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Thanks

 

No photoshop here!!!!  Just go slow and be careful.  And keep your hands clean and workspace clean.  Thats the secret.  Sloooowwww and STEADY.  😊

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Your work looks greag. 

What is a - "flex shaft with the small pen-sized head" on a Dremel?  

I saw Mike make belaying pins, I'm never able to get a proper round boxwood strip unless the original piece is square.

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Its this......instead of the sanding drum you see in the photo, I insert the 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  Its only abut 1" long so it wont wobble.  

 

080596002251.jpg

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2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Its this......instead of the sanding drum you see in the photo, I insert the 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  Its only abut 1" long so it wont wobble.  

 

080596002251.jpg

The foot controller works great with the Flexshaft.

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

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Well done on getting the belaying pins proportionally correct, rather than the inflated chubby-handled ones that are seen on most kits and some scratch-built models.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Thanks....yes I am not a big fan of those brass and/or bulbous wooden belaying pins.  Easy enough to make them myself and you only need four for the longboat.   The knees are all finished now.   I will add the roller and fixed block sheave on the stem next.

 

kneesadded1.jpg

kneesadded2.jpg

kneesadded3.jpg

kneesadded4.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Beautiful workmanship Chuck. Anxiously awaiting the group build! 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48  Duchess of Kingston

 

Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Really beautiful, Chuck

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

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Lovely clean workmanship Chuck, I am always amazed by how big 1/16 square stock looks in a close up picture. and then see the results of making it cylindrical. Nice metalwork too.

 

michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thank You

 

I added the fixed block at the stem on the starboard side.  Its pretty straight forward.   You only need one but I laser cut a bunch of extras for you guys because its tiny.  Just in case.fixedstemblock2.jpg

Glued the small pieces to the back like this.

fixedstemblock3.jpg

Inserted 22 gauge black wire and snipped it off flush on the outside but left it sticking out on the other for the sheave.

fixedstemblock4.jpg

Used 10 lb fishing line to make the four bolts as shown on the plans.  Sanded it and rounded off the edges.

fixedstemblock5.jpg

Added the sheave but with no glue so it will be a working sheave.   Not that it really matters.

fixedstemblock6.jpg

Then I glued it on the stem.

fixedstemblock1.jpg

 

fixedstemblock7.jpg

Pretty straight forward

 

 

 

 

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Chuck - where do you get your brass strip from, or do you cut it yourself from sheets? If so, how do you do that?  Many thanks.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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I do sometimes cut my own brass strip but the stuff I used this time is a common size.  Its available commercially.  Its from K&S.  1/32 x .025 or 1/64.

 

http://www.ksmetals.com/29.html

 

Chuck

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For the roller at the bow,  I chocked up a 1/8" x 1/8" strip in a dremel.  You can use a drill or even a mini lathe if you have one.   I first used a sanding stick to roughly turn it into an octagon.   Basically I just knocked off the corners a bit to make rounding it off easier.

roller.jpg

I blackened it with a sharpie. and glued it into position.

 

roller1.jpg

Almost there with the hull.  Just have the thole pins and the rudder to do next.

 

roller2.jpg

roller3.jpg

 

 

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Chuck, would the roller at the bow not have an axle showing through at least one side?  I have no idea how it was actually mounted, but given the location seems like a straight axle running all the way through the bow from side to side would be the most obvious way.

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Maybe, probably.....  But that would be a bit "kitchen sink" for my tastes any way.  No need to add every little doo-dad just because it would have been there.  I think it would be very distracting and isnt warranted.  But you guys can always add it in.    I dont think its worth the risk of splitting that thin cap rail.  It would be pretty tough to fix at this point.

 

 

 

Chuck

medpicbow.jpg

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1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Maybe, probably.....  But that would be a bit "kitchen sink" for my tastes any way.  No need to add every little doo-dad just because it would have been there.  I think it would be very distracting and isnt warranted.  But you guys can always add it in.    I dont think its worth the risk of splitting that thin cap rail.  It would be pretty tough to fix at this point.

 

 

 

Fair enough, I was just curious how it would have been done on the real thing.


Thanks!

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So close now!!!!   😀

 

The rudder hinges were something new that I wanted to try since the scale is much larger.  So I laser cut them entirely from boxwood.  You can see that they are too thick at this stage but this is by design.

 

rudder1.jpg

Once glued in position on the rudder and hull,  they are quite sturdy.   This is when I sanded them down thinner so they were like the thickness of the brass strips I would use.  About 1/64" thick.

 

Then I drilled holes for the bolts and inserts 24 gauge black wire to simulate them.  Filing them down so they sand proud of the straps.  I also used 24 gauge black wire for the hinge pins.   These are actually working pintels and gudgeons. 

 

 

 

rudder2.jpg

They were painted black and then a coating of weathering powder added to make them look better and not just like a painted black piece of wood.  It came out really well I think.  I also must mention that I painted the edges on top and bottom black BEFORE I glued them into position.   Its must cleaner this way.  I only had to paint the outside after adding the bolts.

 

rudder-tillerdone1.jpg

The tiller was turned in my dremel from a 3/32" x 3/32" strip.  Nothing to difficult.

 

I painted and added the friezes to the rudder and mounted it.

 

rudder-tillerdone.jpg

rudder-tillerdone2.jpg

All I have left to do on the hull is add the the thole pins.   Then make the oars .  I already made the grapnel.  Made from Boxwood and treated just like I did for my anchor kits.

 

grapnel.jpg

 

Chuck

 

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The wood parts for simulated metal do look great.   Very impressive and innovative.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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rudder-tillerdone2.jpg

Based on the maxim that there's never anything on a boat that isn't there for a reason, while watching this interesting build, I've been scratching my head about what could be the reason, if any other than decorative, for the "squiggle" top edge of the rudder blade. It looks a bit like a shark in need of orthodontia took a bite out of it. It's seemingly too high to serve the purpose of aiding in boarding the boat from the water, although rudder shapes have been cut for the purpose, sometime with a hole to provide a foothold. Could it serve some purpose in handling anchor rodes or anchors which might be draped over the notches when an anchor was carried out for kedging? Or is it just some old time boatbuilder's version of a "racing stripe," or a signature detail like today's Nike "swoosh?"

 

"Enquiring minds want to know." Is there some period wonk here that knows the answer, if any answer exists?

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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4 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

rudder-tillerdone2.jpg

Based on the maxim that there's never anything on a boat that isn't there for a reason, while watching this interesting build, I've been scratching my head about what could be the reason, if any other than decorative, for the "squiggle" top edge of the rudder blade. It looks a bit like a shark in need of orthodontia took a bite out of it. It's seemingly too high to serve the purpose of aiding in boarding the boat from the water, although rudder shapes have been cut for the purpose, sometime with a hole to provide a foothold. Could it serve some purpose in handling anchor rodes or anchors which might be draped over the notches when an anchor was carried out for kedging? Or is it just some old time boatbuilder's version of a "racing stripe," or a signature detail like today's Nike "swoosh?"

 

"Enquiring minds want to know." Is there some period wonk here that knows the answer, if any answer exists?

 

 

I've heard that it helps break up the "suction" at the stern.   Not sure how true that is though.   A lot of small period boats do have something like that on the rudders.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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That is my go-to color (rusty brown) for black items that I want to look like metal.  I brush it on an item I painted black with acrylic and then buff it off with a soft clean paint brush.   I used it on these anchors. It works a treat.   You shouldnt go overboard with it so it looks like a rusty piece of junk.  But just add a little and then buff off.  If you paint an item neatly and the surface is smooth,  when you buff the weathering powder it will give it a slight matte sheen and really simulate a metal item which looks different than anything you painted black and didnt do anything to.

 

anchor6.jpg

 

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