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Centering Tools


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When I try to use the typical centering tool I'm all ways fumbling with the two pieces and finally put the square or round stock in the vice and mark the end. Frustrating.

Well problem solved and I would like to share with you what I have found, it's new to me and may be not to new to others. I do not represent  Woodpecker tools nor am I advertising for them, but this is great spendy, $29.99+ shipping makes it $39.89 a lot for such a little device just to draw a line.

What do you think.

 

TJ

Center Finder 1.jpg

Center Finder.jpg

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I agree completely - WAY overpriced for everything they sell  - nice but unless I hit the lottery big (very hard to do when I don't buy tickets) I will probably never buy one of their tools.

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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If interested in function over cachet - there is an older plastic gauge.

It is $6 @ Peachtree

 

 

center_finder_2_300.jpg

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I've used the "old plastic one" for over thirty years. It's great.....Moab

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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What Druxey says.  I've made two, one large for house projects and one for ships.  Not that hard to do, just a bit finicky getting things squared up.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 1 month later...
9 hours ago, Yukon said:

if you have a 3D printer you can print a center finder free

center finder.zip

Thanks a million!!!

 

IMG_1690.jpg.23ec5e379895617a476252d61a6144e7.jpg

Edited by puckotred
Forgot photo

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

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I made my own for $0.  This one will accommodate dowels up to 1-1/2" diameter (or square stock).  If you are working with larger diameters, add another piece of 3/4" plywood to the right angle fence for 3" diameter capacity.  Just be sure the 45 degree and right angles are correct

Img_0273.jpg

Edited by DocBlake
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I have recessed a set of these into a piece  of timber. Covers most sizes of dowel I use. Push dowel into recess, centre marked, job done. 

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8Pcs-Dowel-Drill-Centre-Points-Pin-Wood-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set-/351989788914

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery)

                                    Caldercraft  - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery)

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina

                                                                   - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina

                                               

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The principle of the tool in the first post is neat, particularly for long, thin parts. I think I will go on to make one myself from metal.

 

I have used for years this centre-finder (about 50 mm long):

 

71066-mikro-zentrierwinkel-laenge-55-mm-01.jpg

 

It was and still is a bit pricey at 52€, but this is what you have to pay for quality measuring tools.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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MicroMark has a center marker made of steel that runs about $18. https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/measuring-marking It's one of their on-sale loss-leaders right now.  I think it's going for ten or fifteen bucks on sale. (Sorry, but I didn't save their latest email advertisement with the promo code on it.)

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UMM-USA has this nice little center finder - I have one and love it - for only $8.50. 

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_162&products_id=6607

UMM is a good source for good tweezers and photo etch tools

Kurt

image.png.b4820fd8906faccdb8b43140b6b29076.png

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 3:26 PM, puckotred said:

Thanks a million!!!

 

IMG_1690.jpg.23ec5e379895617a476252d61a6144e7.jpg

Your welcome Having the 3D printer for me has been so awesome I have a small home foundry to cast metals I do Aluminum, Brass and Bronze. I used to make the molds from wood now I can just draw it up in CAD and 3D print it saves a ton of time building, carving, filing I just send the info to the printer and I have a perfect mold to drop in my cope and drag. you can polish the prints easily to make then smooth and glossy also. here is how I do it get some acetone put it in a soup can put a pot of water on the stove and heat it up to boiling let it stand a few min with no heat set the can of acetone in the water and hang the part just above the can as the acetone vaporizes it rises to the part and removes all the print lines watch it carefully as soon as its what you want remove it and rinse it off with clean water to stop the reaction.

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Yes, 3d print is fun and useful. I've heard of the acetone technique before but not in detail, so thanks again 🙂.

On my Vasa build I broke almost all the doorframes and now I can print new ones.

IMG_0879.jpg

 

As the doors cover the frames completely I don't have to worry about layer artifacts...

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

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