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Thermopylae by Tjalle58 - Finished - Sergal - Scale 1:124


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Hi!

I am a newbee from sweden. I started to build wood model ships in the beginning of this year (2018) because I wanted a hobby. I used to build plastic models in my youth but I was never good at it, I didn't have the patience required. But this time... :) So I started to build 2 (3) ships. The first was not good the second was better and the third was a disaster so that I had to put aside for a while. But the fourth, Thermopylae, started pretty good. Then I discovered that it was way out of my league but giving up is not an option. So all beginners can follow this log and hopefully not make my mistakes. There are quite a few :) .

I found a absoultely fantastic build log at the internet and contacted he who had it and he "adopted" me and gives me advice and help via e-mail and it´s worth eveything to mee.

I'm sorry I don't have thar many pictures  from the start but I can describe trhe mistakes I made and had to correct. I guess I started to build this 2018-05-01  and today is 2018-08-03. I started with dryfit of the decks and frames. I had to sand the decks a bit and when I was happy I started to glue the frames puting the the deck on between every frame so it would hold them in place.

P.S. I hope my english isn't to bad but I think I can make myself understood even if I spell something wrong and use the wrong word sometimes.

To be continued........

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20180524_180501.jpg

Edited by Tjalle58
Model is finished
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Good luck with this subject!!

I have been tempted many times to purchase this rut never had the courage.

(I've got stuff "On The Hop" anyway.)

 

Happy to follow along!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Planking has started. I was so corious about how the ship would look like so I prepared the deck fittings and dryfitted them after doing three planks. I think it's going to be a nice ship. The planking in the transom will be vertical and go 3 mm. above the aft deck in order to build the transom railing.

20180601_165220.jpg

20180609_144946.jpg

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When I did my first models I was very careful with sanding, afraid to sand too much. That was a mistake. Included in the kit is a "filler block" in the transom and I had to sand most of it off in order to get the curvature under the transom. After I started the planking I had to sand it even more. Lessons learned :)

20180601_233447.jpg

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hello Klas.......glad to see you started a build log :)   the hull frame has a really nice shape to her.......faring the frame is really important,  so to give the hull a smooth contour.  as mentioned,  I chose not to use the supplied planking.  I'm not a huge fan of double planking,  so I used 1.5 mm planking.  it insured that there was plenty of skin for sanding.   the stern came out very good....deck planking came out equally as well  ;) 

 

looking forward to see your next batch of pictures :)  

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hi again!

Time for the second planking. As you can see I started this planking with the first palnk following the hull from bow to stern. I could do that because the planks was only 0,5 mm so I could bend the first plank and use stealers between the first and second. I.m pretty happy with the result.

 

20180709_203248.jpg

Andra plankning klar.jpg

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Time to plank the deck and paint the hull. For the hull I choose copper in the bottom and dark green for the upper half. I painted one layer, set it to dry for 5 - 6 hrs and then planked a bit on the deck. Nextday, same procedure. Totally three layers of paint.

20180731_161856.jpg

20180802_084018.jpg

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On 8/4/2018 at 9:22 AM, hof00 said:

Good luck with this subject!!

I have been tempted many times to purchase this rut never had the courage.

(I've got stuff "On The Hop" anyway.)

 

Happy to follow along!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

For me, as a beginner I must say it's a difficult one so it's going to take quite some time. But it's a beatiful ship.

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clipper ships are beautiful........definitely!   I can agree that this particular kit is tough.......only because there is a lot more scratch building than meets the eye.  your second planking came out nice...as with your deck.  did you look up Cryil Humes' Thermopylae?

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=211834&img=132358

click on the smaller pictures.......you should also be able to zoom in for close up viewing.   your early pictures were misleading.........does your kit have printed decks?  mine didn't.........I'm sure you got the smaller detail sheet for the deck fittings

1028953403_11.jpg.b6350799cdbaf148221377cf60821050.jpg

but,  did you get one of these too?

1246558151_recievedsheetandphotoetchcopies.jpg.7ca74e5f88cf6b9fef2f1e98b36bd8ce.jpg

I had ordered these extra sheets from Cornwall Model Boats.......the one on the left is stamped sheet brass.  it was a bit of a pain to work with,  but I made good use of it.   I was going to create a second hull and build the Cutty Sark........coming up with the decorations for the hull would be hard to do,  so I thought better of it {dunno......I still might do it}.

    by all means........take your time.   this hobby would be a bore,  if one could churn one out in a week  ;)   do you have a side picture of the inner bulwarks? ........interested to see what you did there.   you asked about this......with all the bulwark posts removed {and after the deck planking},  I ran two rows of .5 x 2 mm along the bulwarks starting from the bottom.   then I ran a strip of 1/16 x 1/16 from fore deck to aft deck.  another strip of .5 x 2 mm finished the bulwark off.  this will give you a firm anchor to locate the pin rails.......they will be high enough from the deck to add the belaying pins.

263118924_8.jpg.441ad6f9d6b93d09293ba12012a76cb4.jpg

you can also see how the chain plates {channels} were arranged.   having an idea of the mast rake,  they were arranged just after the mast holes. the rake is between 4 to 6 degrees.....this is good for most ships.

819587142_9.jpg.35efeb4f114a72441d1dfe930f2da44d.jpg

I'm going to work towards getting mine back on the table.    hope you don't mind if I posted these pictures......figured it would be the best way to show you.  I can remove them if you wish.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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On 8/9/2018 at 10:09 PM, popeye the sailor said:

clipper ships are beautiful........definitely!   I can agree that this particular kit is tough.......only because there is a lot more scratch building than meets the eye.  your second planking came out nice...as with your deck.  did you look up Cryil Humes' Thermopylae?

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=211834&img=132358

click on the smaller pictures.......you should also be able to zoom in for close up viewing.   your early pictures were misleading.........does your kit have printed decks?  mine didn't.........I'm sure you got the smaller detail sheet for the deck fittings

1028953403_11.jpg.b6350799cdbaf148221377cf60821050.jpg

but,  did you get one of these too?

1246558151_recievedsheetandphotoetchcopies.jpg.7ca74e5f88cf6b9fef2f1e98b36bd8ce.jpg

I had ordered these extra sheets from Cornwall Model Boats.......the one on the left is stamped sheet brass.  it was a bit of a pain to work with,  but I made good use of it.   I was going to create a second hull and build the Cutty Sark........coming up with the decorations for the hull would be hard to do,  so I thought better of it {dunno......I still might do it}.

    by all means........take your time.   this hobby would be a bore,  if one could churn one out in a week  ;)   do you have a side picture of the inner bulwarks? ........interested to see what you did there.   you asked about this......with all the bulwark posts removed {and after the deck planking},  I ran two rows of .5 x 2 mm along the bulwarks starting from the bottom.   then I ran a strip of 1/16 x 1/16 from fore deck to aft deck.  another strip of .5 x 2 mm finished the bulwark off.  this will give you a firm anchor to locate the pin rails.......they will be high enough from the deck to add the belaying pins.

263118924_8.jpg.441ad6f9d6b93d09293ba12012a76cb4.jpg

you can also see how the chain plates {channels} were arranged.   having an idea of the mast rake,  they were arranged just after the mast holes. the rake is between 4 to 6 degrees.....this is good for most ships.

819587142_9.jpg.35efeb4f114a72441d1dfe930f2da44d.jpg

I'm going to work towards getting mine back on the table.    hope you don't mind if I posted these pictures......figured it would be the best way to show you.  I can remove them if you wish.

Hi Popeye!

Thanks for the comments about hull and deck. The hull is better than the deck but I think I can hide most of the mistakes with the deck so it's ok. I got that same sheet as you with the model Art. 791 but I don't know what everything is for yet but that will be clear as the journey continoues :) . Yes my deck was printed with the pattern how to lay the planks. I noticed the difference from your log so it must be different edidtions. I notice thar our outriggers on the davits differs. I made my outrigger from 3mm dowel and drilled two holes in hem for the rigging lines and then sanded them. I noticed that too from your log. I am going to upload some pictures now and now it's up to date where I am right now in project..

Edited by Tjalle58
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This is what I am doing right now. I have prepared the 6 channels and will fit them together with the transom handrail that I hope will be ok after spackling (Google translate), sanding and painting

1518568067_6Chainplates.jpg.d239023e24bd271c3a8a0d8e576b6691.jpg

The surface on wich to glue the looks a bit thin so I will put a 1 x 2 mm support under them, that's the small plank on the deck.

 

345313396_8chainplates.jpg.87af0bc9d5aaf57884050f906ade2946.jpg

And finally a picture of the bulwark. I planked it with ,5 x 3 mm palnk and the pinrail (right word?) is 2 x 3 mm plank from deck to deck. The instruction says it's gonna go from the bow all the way to the stern and just lie on the fore deck and poop deck but I think this sollution was better, I stole it from Popeye.s log. :) 

1815778690_9Bulwark.thumb.jpg.6ef151380b8f4b245275332e5f852630.jpg

Next step will be the wale (rub rail) before I finish all the chainplates. I was a bit insecure how to bend it around the transom so what to do. Of course, study Popeyes log and there it was. Ok, it confirmed what I was thinking but know I'm sure. Thanks again Popeye :)

Thats it for today

Edited by Tjalle58
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the printed decks threw me....not seeing them with my kit,  I thought you had done them already  :D    older kits used to follow this practice.......instead of doing all that planking,  folks could just stain the deck and be done with it.  back when I was helping Tom out,  I fielded a few questions and complaints about it.   ignoring it,  or if possible, flipping the part over and using the other side,  was about the only option.   folks didn't have to put up with it for long,  because further down the road,  it began to disappear.   now,  only a few manufacturers do it.   the other kit that I have of the Nordkap has it.....I'll just paint and plank over it.......no biggie  ;)    

    the strip along the inner bulwarks {been a while since I looked at the plans} isn't the way the plans tell you to do the pin rails,  but it a good alternative to enable you to get at them at rigging time.   not sure what your going to do to replace those belaying pins....I think the ones supplied in the kit are too big.  I got some brass 5 mm belaying pins from Ages of sail...........click on the sub file for fittings and go from there.   the number for them is AM4100/05.   considering the hole you will need to drill to accept them,  will be much better than the ones you'll need to drill for the kit supplied ones.   while your at it,  you might want to order some 4088/03 3 mm double blocks......there aren't enough of them either.  if shipping costs are too much,  perhaps a closer shop.......Cornwall,  Amati would be an option {at least you'll have the size of what you'll need}. 

    I'll bestow one small bit of wisdom I've come to know...........don't hesitate to go with a solution you've figured out for yourself.   some of the coolest things I've seen here to remedy a situation,  have been thought up by folks who are just starting out in the medium.    keep up the good work!  :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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16 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

the printed decks threw me....not seeing them with my kit,  I thought you had done them already  :D    older kits used to follow this practice.......instead of doing all that planking,  folks could just stain the deck and be done with it.  back when I was helping Tom out,  I fielded a few questions and complaints about it.   ignoring it,  or if possible, flipping the part over and using the other side,  was about the only option.   folks didn't have to put up with it for long,  because further down the road,  it began to disappear.   now,  only a few manufacturers do it.   the other kit that I have of the Nordkap has it.....I'll just paint and plank over it.......no biggie  ;)    

    the strip along the inner bulwarks {been a while since I looked at the plans} isn't the way the plans tell you to do the pin rails,  but it a good alternative to enable you to get at them at rigging time.   not sure what your going to do to replace those belaying pins....I think the ones supplied in the kit are too big.  I got some brass 5 mm belaying pins from Ages of sail...........click on the sub file for fittings and go from there.   the number for them is AM4100/05.   considering the hole you will need to drill to accept them,  will be much better than the ones you'll need to drill for the kit supplied ones.   while your at it,  you might want to order some 4088/03 3 mm double blocks......there aren't enough of them either.  if shipping costs are too much,  perhaps a closer shop.......Cornwall,  Amati would be an option {at least you'll have the size of what you'll need}. 

    I'll bestow one small bit of wisdom I've come to know...........don't hesitate to go with a solution you've figured out for yourself.   some of the coolest things I've seen here to remedy a situation,  have been thought up by folks who are just starting out in the medium.    keep up the good work!  :) 

The printed deck is very clean and nice but lifeless so that's way I decided to plank it anyway and it gives more "life" to the deck. I have already drilled the holes on the pinracks for the included belaying pins, 1,2 mm but if brass pins is narrower that might be a good idea to use for the the strip along the inner bulwarks. I have a couple of shops nearby who are very cheap on these stuff. I have only sibngle blocks included and the instruction says "Blocks are all the same dimension and one-hole". I thought that was a bit suprising but I'll have to deal with that when I come to the rigging. Today I will continue with the rub rail around the transom, I was not happy with the one I did yesterday. It cracked and I tried to glue it but....

Edited by Tjalle58
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Looking good. It's fun isn't it when things start to work out.

I admire your patience continuing after a couple of drawback kits....

If you need any help in Swedish feel free to PM me.

(Det kan vara svårt ibland att uttrycka sig på ett annat språk)

 👍

Edited by puckotred

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

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On 8/10/2018 at 10:27 AM, Tjalle58 said:

Hi Popeye!

Thanks for the comments about hull and deck. The hull is better than the deck but I think I can hide most of the mistakes with the deck so it's ok. I got that same sheet as you with the model Art. 791 but I don'd whar everything is for yet but that will be clear as the journey continoues :) . Yes my deck was printed with the pattern how to lay the planks. I noticed the difference from your log so it must be different edidtions. I notice thar our outriggers on the davits differs. I made my outrigger from 3mm dowel and drilled two holes in hem for the rigging lines and then sanded them. I noticed that too from your log. I am going to upload some pictures now and now it's up to date where I am right now in project..

I am going to prepare the bollards and I think I am going to use the small plates (red circle) for bottom but what are are the big plates for? (green circle). Or is it optional?

268707487_Sheet791ny.jpg.48b12b98c3c34bc240deaeb49cda0d6f.jpg

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the little ones are for the bollards......the larger ones are for the boarding ladder,  which I probably won't use on my model.   your on the right track.  I wish they had them on the metal etch.......be careful,  they break easily.   very hard to drill them out too......not much meat there.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

the little ones are for the bollards......the larger ones are for the boarding ladder,  which I probably won't use on my model.   your on the right track.  I wish they had them on the metal etch.......be careful,  they break easily.   very hard to drill them out too......not much meat there.

Thanks Popeye. Yes, they are very small so I'll try to cut them out without brekaing them 😟. I drilled them while they were still on the sheet, that went fine. The bulding is going slowly forward. Soon time for more pictures. i have started to glue the deck riggings. The rub rail is on and became ....... you'll see soon :)

How do I edit my signature so it shows in every post, I can't find it in my profile :(

Edited by Tjalle58
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go into your profile....on the left there should be a signature page...don't forget to save ;) 

 

you pre drilled 'em on the sheet..........I would have never thought to do that  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Share on other sites

Next step is to glue the channels and the handrail in place. The transom is tough fo me we'll see what it looks like when finished2051885822_9Transom.thumb.jpg.4958ae631f1826faba72896d90febc25.jpg

And all six channels and the handrail is in place. Now it's time to see what i can dp to correct the transom. Filler and paint and filler and paint and......

20180813_190931.thumb.jpg.d883919fd1679b65e5aed4a211b902b0.jpg

After this it's time for the deck fittings. Then hopfully it will start to look like a ship

 

Fittings are prepared

1.thumb.jpg.7b09616f73f13e7b73f8bbf186b8bb4c.jpg

The bollards were tricky The foot (?) was very small to cut out but that went out well

2.thumb.jpg.cf7abc7481f282b7bf82193665383e88.jpg

2a.thumb.jpg.ed2d0365667b9adbba776a2209429131.jpg

The fittings starts to come in place

3.thumb.jpg.192e380d28e90412393b9a02bbcda614.jpg4.thumb.jpg.b6d167cea7f71ef9ba2b7c527dde2f6a.jpg5.thumb.jpg.dd70d6634087e5637c63204fb5e9f9f9.jpg

Edited by Tjalle58
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I'm sorry to say that I'm NOT happy with the transom. I'll see if I can put some more effort to it to make it look a bit better. Otherwise, I think I know what I have done wrong so I'll keep that in mind until next ship, wich will be Halifax by the way.

20180819_090307.thumb.jpg.2b3447f2b49bef2bd3fd6610bbb80424.jpg

I have also varnished the hull with one layer semi-gloss varnish. I had planned to paint a white stripe betwwen the green and the copper and I totally forgot that yesterday when I vanished it. I guess I can paint anyway?. For a beginner I think the ship is ok. Not good but ok :)

20180819_090711.thumb.jpg.44ac2ddecb1fc6c10a3f37ac533f7567.jpg

 

 

Edited by Tjalle58
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she's look'in good.........per our discussion.....this model is not one I'd choose for a person starting out.   there's too much stuff to scratch build.   your doing a fine job.......keep going. ;)   I'm not even pleased with this kit.......and I've built a few already!    there are things I think could have been done better on my models.......but they are what they are.   keep that thought in mind........your next model will look better for it  :) 

 

those straps to me were brittle............I broke one trying to bend it.   even the metal stropes were wrong.   my offer still stands...I'll even throw in some 5 mm dead eyes.......I have plenty  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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