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Thermopylae by Tjalle58 - Finished - Sergal - Scale 1:124


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27 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

she's look'in good.........per our discussion.....this model is not one I'd choose for a person starting out.   there's too much stuff to scratch build.   your doing a fine job.......keep going. ;)   I'm not even pleased with this kit.......and I've built a few already!    there are things I think could have been done better on my models.......but they are what they are.   keep that thought in mind........your next model will look better for it  :) 

 

those straps to me were brittle............I broke one trying to bend it.   even the metal stropes were wrong.   my offer still stands...I'll even throw in some 5 mm dead eyes.......I have plenty  ;) 

Thank you so much for the offer but the new straps seems to be good. I am very thankful for all your help so it feels like I'm pushing it a bit too far if I ask you to send me stuff :) You must be a very nice person👍. Yes, I think this ship is difficult so it's going quite slowly. But I do think that it will a nice ship when I'm done. I managed to scratch the hull when I did the bowbox so I will repair that with a bit of new paint 

 

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your not push'in nutt'in..........I just want to see you succeed ;)   I see you have some on already..........looks good!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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slight adjustment........you don't want them flopp'in 'round like a fish  ;)    like your avatar 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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funny........I used to play the bass.   ships took over and now I hardly play either.   trying to find my way back.......I do miss it somewhat  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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It has been a week since my last update but not very much has happened. It´s all this small things that takes forever to make. But I have finished the railing at the bow and the rudder is in place so it is moving forward. But slowly.

I started to prepare the lifeboat davits and filed them before I bent them so of course one of them went off. Ok,I got one spare since I'm not gonna use for the compnionway. So I drilled holes but did not file it before I bent it, I thought I had learned from my mistake. This went off easier than the first one because of the hole in the middle. I am not too smart sometimes :( I have ordered new brass rods and this time ..... 😂

20180830_174145.jpg.6169c72e5a5acdbf2d034617583b4c32.jpg20180830_174240.thumb.jpg.60f2ecb112ee400c1de00dc32b33e08a.jpg20180830_174304.thumb.jpg.7a76855beafeb2169c4af670a463b2fb.jpg20180830_174342.jpg.c33c49e7e899dffcec8eb60fc579e2f6.jpg

Edited by Tjalle58
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this is where I left off  :)   looks really good!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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19 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

this is where I left off  :)   looks really good!

Thanks and Hello :)

Don't you sleep at night either? :) I have received the brass wire so the fourth davit is made and I am witing for the paint to dry. I will paint the second half tomorrow and assemle it on monday.

I still havn't got the last chainplates I ordered last week so I am not happy witth the guy. I think I will stop ordering from him He is an old retired man who has the webshop as a hobby but maybe it is time for him to quit that too.

I clicked on the follow button on some of your logs, and others too but I must have done something wrong so I have to try again.

You asked if was bitten by the bug. It's worse :) I bought a Chinese Djonk from Artesania Latina so now I have three ships going on. But this has highest priority.

 

Edited by Tjalle58
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have started to prepare the masts and I decided to do another sollution than the instruction shows.

20180910_103433.jpg.40de0c2d3eb5fb931800ba8b15590a40.jpgThe upper shroud should pass through the platform and be attached to the lower shroud. Instead I will attach eyebolts on top of the platform and attach the shroud to them20180910_103517.jpg.34b2eeb56bc82629766cc01318d3dc12.jpgDon't mind the different wood, I will paint it :)

The instruction also shows two beams on the under side but that is not possible to do?

20180910_103605.jpg.463b45c09c41e61e767b7515d4b157b5.jpg

The mast is a little bit skew so I will try and straighten it out. If that does not help I think I can straighten it with the upper shroud.

20180910_103750.jpg.c6b76ee03a19bfe8e3b33623b514fd87.jpg

I have never done anything like this in my whole life but with with patience and swearwords and a at least a couple of attempts this will do.

20180910_105433.jpg.ee0d666e74d5e47099fbaa36f8a17b05.jpgI will trim it a bit and I am aware of that the lower vertical beam just under the masthole is a bit short :) 

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it's progress and your learning........effort has it's rewards  ;)    look at other logs on clipper ships,  on how they do the tops and cross trees,  and you'll get a better idea on how to proceed.   in some instances,  the size of the wood in the instructions are out of scale......I tend to go with what I think would be more to scale in regards to this.   1/16 and 1/32 does a lot to fix some of their boo boo's ;)  and will allow you to get a bit more detailed.   rigging diagrams are also not correct at times.....simplified for the creation of the model.  if you look at the different model manufacturers,  you'll see that they all have different methods in the construction and materials for their models.  I suppose this is OK though,  since there are no two modelers that are alike :D  :D    Keep at it my friend........your doing fine!  :) 

 

glad your enjoying the hobby.   be mindful of the kit you buy......only build the 'good' ones ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hi Popeye and thanks. It's looking ok for a beginner so far. It's not going to happen but I would like to build this model again and correct all mistakes I have made. I think (hope) I've learned a lot from this ship. First of all: when I'm done planning and thinking and ready to assemle something, think and plan again :) . I have started to look around more on the logs in this forum, and other, and it's inspiring to see how good it can look when you know what you are doing. 

So give me two or three more models more (I allready have them :) ) and it will get better.

Starting with this hobby is one of the best things I've ever done.

Edited by Tjalle58
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Hi again. My struggling continues. I have decided to remove the railing I made and buy stanchios with 2 holes, 6 mm high and change to that. It will lokk much better.20180912_095612.jpg.ca43a15d211a227f6711efd30c8f94a3.jpg20180912_095628.jpg.d8b9170e770d80b6f47659f8f5778db4.jpgI must do something about the helm as well, it has too big angle

Work, work, work :) but it will be worth it.

Edited by Tjalle58
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...the way the kit tells you to make the railings.   you see why I went the route I did....... ;)    6 mm might look a little too high,  but you will produce better railings using stanchions....not sure if they make any smaller.   your seeing these things........that is good!  soon,  you will look over a kit and decide earlier,  what to change or enhance.   you very well could buy another one of these kits......but as an FYI...there are much better kits out there ;)   I have one that I'm redoing........the Nordkap.   it's an old kit,  just like the first one......but it will not be the same model.   I plan to make a different ship from it.

    it's all in the process of the build,  how this model will come out.....you can have one that takes little effort,  or you can have one that is fraught with problems.  from start to finish,  the main thing is that you built it.   fill in the old railing holes with filler and paint over them,  when it's time to install the new railings.   it will look good ;)   hopefully,  I can get off my duff and get mine back on the table....your  beginning to get ahead of me :blush:

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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8 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

...the way the kit tells you to make the railings.   you see why I went the route I did....... ;)    6 mm might look a little too high,  but you will produce better railings using stanchions....not sure if they make any smaller.   your seeing these things........that is good!  soon,  you will look over a kit and decide earlier,  what to change or enhance.   you very well could buy another one of these kits......but as an FYI...there are much better kits out there ;)   I have one that I'm redoing........the Nordkap.   it's an old kit,  just like the first one......but it will not be the same model.   I plan to make a different ship from it.

    it's all in the process of the build,  how this model will come out.....you can have one that takes little effort,  or you can have one that is fraught with problems.  from start to finish,  the main thing is that you built it.   fill in the old railing holes with filler and paint over them,  when it's time to install the new railings.   it will look good ;)   hopefully,  I can get off my duff and get mine back on the table....your  beginning to get ahead of me :blush:

Hello Popeye! I ordered the stanchions from Cornwall and I couldn't find any shorter. BUT, today when I looked they have pre-made railings, 5 mm high 😄. I want models that takes some effort to build, not too easy but not too hard even though I complained over Halifax 😂. I am sure I will fix it in the end. I've seen your Nordkap and it´s so inspring to see how good it can look. I guess it comes with experience. What does FYI mean? I concider you and the others as me mentors and I am very thankful for all the help. And it's nice to have a chat with someone :) 

I am very glad I joined this forum, here I get all the help I need much quicker and better than the swedish forum I joined. It's easier to experess oneself in swedish :) I'm working with the masts right now but now it's time for bed, work tomorrow.

Regards/ Tjalle

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Problem solving day :)

I can't figure out how to do this. The instruction says that the two brackets are to be joined with a 1mm pin, flattened so it wont fall out,  but how?20180914_220350.jpg.730fdf055e9ebe3ce0731d8d661f19d6.jpgShould I start with attaching the parrel to the mast, then join the brackets and nail them to the yard and last try to fit the yard with brackets on to the mast with a pin through the parrel? That seems extremely tight 😬 I have glued the pin in the first parrel, maybe that was a mistake but I can remove it (I hope)

So instead I'm thinking of making a new bracket to attach to the yard. That bracket fits inside the first bracket 

20180914_220413-2.jpg.d4cd475d9fe211cd6f600ce47935abbf.jpg

Any suggestions?

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Good Morning! Rise and shine :) I slept on the problem and eureka. This might work! Bracket numbering according to my last picture.

20180915_084418.jpg.7ff6fa3da1cc0a53862241cdc3f81a64.jpg I start with flattening one and of a pin and insert it through bracket No. 2 that  goes to the boom (is it boom or yard?) and glue it inside bracket No 1. I think that the end in bracket 2 wont come off and this way I can hopefully rotate the boom. The I push the parrel behind the pin that has allready been inserted through bracket 1 and glue and pin the parrel on the mast. The more I think of it this is the only way to do it?

20180915_084440.jpg.62dcf26a6805aba345979ba8f59da322.jpg

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I have a 'helping hand' to strope my blocks.   it's quite useful,  but I still need to find a way to anchor it to the table,  or a larger base so it doesn't move around as much.  I haven't done anything with the yards yet,  but I'm in the thought process of making the brackets for them.   lots of folks will drill  hole in the mast and insert a pin to orient the yard on.  you've hit onto an idea with your attempt on the bracket........let the pin protrude in the anchor part of the bracket,  for when you locate it onto the mast ;)   I do know what you mean though.......everything looks good on paper.   ....makes one wonder if they really tried to do what they illustrate.  there are many here who have quite a bit of knowledge of brass and metal work in general.  I wish I had a tiny bit of what they know  ;)   you could look in online shops to see if there might be parts for purchase,  that would help you out......I tend to do it this way too.   you'd be surprised with what you might find.  clippers do have unique bracketing systems for their yards.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hi Popeye!

I have a helping hand too, a crocodile clip glued and pinned to a stand but I have the same problem as you. Last night I chased the stand all over the kitchen table 😂 so I also need a heavier base. I haven't tried my sollution with the yard bracket yet but I am pretty sure it will work. Now when we speek of it I must try it tonight :).  I will post a picture of the result.

I spent at least an hour of my workday today looking at Cornwall's fittings and I saw lots of thing that I really "need" I ordered some eyepins last week and they arrived today and while I was ordering it just happened that one more model slipped through. HMS Racehorse by Sergl. I am not going to start building it though for at least a couple of months.

I have allso spent a few hours doing as you recommended and locking through build logs in this forum. Here are so much knowledge and good pictures to be inspired by.

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another model?!?!?!   you truly have been bitten  ;) .........just don't get as bad as me  ;) :D    absolutely.......there is a wealth of info here......and most of the techniques are universal.  there are other ideas to glean in the scratch build forum as well.  Cornwall's a good place......your able to view fittings by other manufacturers as well.   browsing through them,  you may find something that will work better for you.  I'll look forward in seeing what you come up with  :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Ha ha, yes another model, but HMS Racehorse is now put away in a cupboard. I just opened the box for a quick glance. It looks like a model suitable for me at my level :).

I couldn't try my bracket sollution yesterday I need to prepare some other stuff first otheerwise I think that yard will be in the way :( First thing first.

But I am really curiuos so as soon as I can...........

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I really need to get her back onto the table........better when comparing notes ;)    I have the masts already assembled...I just need to add the detail that Hume put into his.   I was looking at a couple of the bracket diagrams yesterday,  as I took down the rigging diagrams for the Nordzee.......feeling the urge to experiment.  I feel so 'beat down',  thinking about my job............it really kills my mood  :( 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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If you are in an a bad mood working with models is perfect. That keeps one's mind from everything else :) I'm looking forward to see your progress with the masts. Yours look better than mine so far, they are more ... clean, neat? I'm not sure what word to use but I think you know what I mean :) I got my new drill from Proxxon yesterday and managed to drill my finger this morning before work. Ouch! Not too bad though :)

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WELL :rolleyes:  I'm very glad you didn't get a saw!  :excl:   I'm so preoccupied with it........makes me angry that it's become so disruptive.  I know what I need to do,  but it's hard.....like the work but can't stand the company.  long story.   kinda like when I get an idea for something.......with all the projects I have going........you can see how I got there in the first place...just can't seem to keep it in the back of my mind.  it's gotta come out ;)   I'll work on it .

 

in the meantime.......drill away from you,  or on some hard surface.....not the fleshy part of your hand  ;)    no blood letting allowed! 🚫

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hi all! It is going slow with my Thermopylae because I need to do some changes on some things I am not happy with. And then it's all this tiny parts that I am not used to handle so it as I said, it takes time. But it's going forward. If someone should see it now they would probably guess that it is a ship :) 

I would like an advice again. The three rigging threads to the left are included in the kit. The thick is obviously for the stay, but I am thinking it's too thick. The difference is huge. I know the stays are thicker than the rest of the rig but not that much, or?? The thread on the right are 0.8 mm. maybe I can use that instead. How big difference is usual? I guess the included threads are 1.0; 0.25 and 0.10 mm or close to it.

DSC00464.thumb.JPG.e85f5f7b2ddc8e5b3ed70874fb3cd64a.JPG

The build continues20180925_213221.jpg.5dbdcc49842a63c508852f02aec986c7.jpg

But I shouldn't have changed the deadeyes from 4 to 5 mm because of a stupid reason. I should have waited and get the right stuff. Well well, lesson learned. It is too late to change it now. But I will change the railing and probably the lifeboat davits.

I would appreciate an advice on the thread.

I have to come up with a phrase to end all my posts with but for now I just say thanks for today :) 

 

Edited by Tjalle58
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Good morning!

This morning I have been thinking of my too big deadeyes and tried one part of the shroud on. If it is tight in the channel it will even more tight 10 mm up. I s it possible to take off all the channels and make new ones a bit wider. How hard can it be? 😂. What would you have done and how? If it is not too hard to remove the old ones I will do that, change back to 4 mm deadeyes and buy the right chainplates. I know that this will be disturbing to mee if I don't do anything.

.DSC00465.thumb.JPG.ce85ea3eedd0d9742c56d349d80a317c.JPG

Please, give some advice here:unsure:

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The golden rule is: Do what you will be satisfied with. It's hard to look at a finished build and always think "I should have done this and that. WHY didn't I do that?" 

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

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when I created mine,  I took into account of the scale and the arrangement.    since the kit went with four shroud lines,  I went with it,  but for the main and perhaps the fore shrouds,  I may add a fifth and leave the rest for back stays.  i haven't made provision yet for the back stay {or two},  that will be done as a pennant and block.   I feel that I might have made my channels a bit too short too,  but I'm not sure if there is a solid rule for the axis of the shroud or back stay lines,  as the mast supports.   I used the supplied dead eyes.........looking at the kit directions,  they don't really show any for the second step masting.   they would likely be smaller.......perhaps 3 mm.  most model companies don't take this into account though,  since this isn't the first time I've seen this.   for the rigging line,  I don't have a clue what the larger stuff would be used for....I wouldn't use it either.   all standing rigging should be done in black,  if you want it to look right.  given the different way that companies designate how they measure their thread,  I couldn't tell you.  I pretty much go with what I see........I use a beading thread that will do well for me on this model {I know I have a picture somewhere.......but I can't find one}.   it would give you an idea of how thick it is.   the other two light tan thread would be good to use....use the thicker line on the lower and haul lines,  and thinner stuff for the dead eyes and upper lines.  a good example here would be to use thicker lines for the lifts and halyards,  and thinner lines for the sheet and clew lines.   I see your setting up a jig for the spacing of the dead eyes,  for when you do the lanyards {the dead eye assembly}.

    I made up one....I should make up others in different lengths,  for other models.   I wouldn't change the channels......since you've done the cap rails,  it will be a rather big job.  when doing the shrouds,  start on the starboard side,  a pair at a time.   make a loop at the top,  sieze them together,  feed them through the hole in the top,  and jig the length of the shroud line at the dead eyes.   some will sieze around the threads,  some wrap the thread around the shroud and glue,  tying the seizing rope afterwards.    with the absence of black thread and size problems,  most don't use the supplied thread,  and go with what they feel will look better.   

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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