Jump to content
tigerdvr

Coiling Lines Option

Recommended Posts

I’ve never been able to coil rigging very well even though there have been any number of great tips and hints offered on this website.

I am working on the ME Confederacy and am using a paper pattern to simulate the canvas covering for the great cabin. No contact cement was available so I picked up a Scotch Glue Stick which worked well laying the “canvas” down on the planks.

Then a little light bulb went off and I wondered if this easily handled adhesive could be used to coil rope. I simply dragged a length of line across the top of the Glue Stick, wrapped the line around the base of a dowel (1/4” in this trial) to the depth I wanted. Stripped the coiled rope off the dowel and had a very nice coiled rope. Fast, simple, & inexpensive. You can use a similar drill storing extra rope length on belaying pins. Check out Kevin Kenny’s video for some useful hints on setting up a jig.

The coils held their shape with no problems.

Cheers, Harley

GrdCbnDk2.jpg.f32a754b3fa9eec022c54220c4384c69.jpg574206281_Ropes3.jpg.6f09495d1141927cc8f27fd4ffe9415c.jpg72938609_Ropes10.jpg.5322be368d4819678bf62bb548832972.jpg284931848_Ropes12.jpg.21f4b2605d39feb9255038cd4920c0d5.jpg631862361_Ropes7.jpg.c52d5e87ce00c8d482cc44a1b9af4754.jpg640575897_Ropes1.jpg.358057fc399ca6823d99a83f8b22e2ce.jpg

 

Edited by tigerdvr
Left word out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an experiment. I'll try some different applications and see what happens. Yours is a good point as to the longevity

of the applications, thanks.

 

Cheers, Harley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to use thin organic-solvent based lacquer for this. Drape/coil it and then soak in the lacquer, so that the rope becomes stiff. Further adjustments can be made by applying a drop of the respective thinner - the rope becomes soft again and can be coerced into shape. If you find a solvent for the glue-stick glue, this may also be an option.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another trick you can use is double sided tape. Stick one side to your work surface and the coil your lines using the sticky tape to keep in place. You can the use watered down white glue to fix the coils. Let it dry and remove from tape. I used this method to get the coils next to the canons in this picture.

20180914_160205.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎9‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 4:53 AM, wefalck said:

I tend to use thin organic-solvent based lacquer for this. Drape/coil it and then soak in the lacquer, so that the rope becomes stiff. Further adjustments can be made by applying a drop of the respective thinner - the rope becomes soft again and can be coerced into shape. If you find a solvent for the glue-stick glue, this may also be an option.

Does the lacquer method have fumes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure what you mean by 'fumes'. You would use only a tiny drop of lacquer/varnish, applied with a brush, you wouldn't dowse the model in it. The stuff I am using is very similar to nail-varnish and smells like that as well. Actually, I like that smell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, wefalck said:

Not sure what you mean by 'fumes'. You would use only a tiny drop of lacquer/varnish, applied with a brush, you wouldn't dowse the model in it. The stuff I am using is very similar to nail-varnish and smells like that as well. Actually, I like that smell.

I didn't anticipate dowsing the model but some people are more susceptible to various fluids than others. That's why so many stains, paints, lacquers, etc. are specific on use in well ventilated areas. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wefalck,

 

I like your lacquer idea and I am not concerned by the fume issue.

 

My question is, once you have the finished coil what adhesive do you to glue it in place?  Is more Lacquer strong enough? I dislike using CA glues, and the PVA glues  are unlikely to stick to the lacquered surface.  The two sided tape seems messy and I have yet to find any that is dependable over a long time.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I certainly stated here repeatedly, I never use CA glues for anything else, but proper joints. I certainly do not use it to re-enforce any rigging. The lacquer or varnish I use is called (in German) zapon-varnish. It cellulose-based and contains also components that keep it slightly elastic. It's main traditional use is to protect silverware and brass (instruments) from tarnishing.

 

The very varnish also keeps rope coils in place. Of course, one can use a lacquer or varnish as glue too.

 

Below a couple of pictures of various types of coils, all coerced in place with varnish. The first picture shows how the coils are shaped and kept in their place, while the solvent evaporates - usually in a few minutes.

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/models/botter/BotterModel/BotterModel-139.jpg

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/models/botter/BotterModel/BotterModel-191.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 7:12 PM, tigerdvr said:

I didn't anticipate dowsing the model but some people are more susceptible to various fluids than others. That's why so many stains, paints, lacquers, etc. are specific on use in well ventilated areas. 

Not to beat you up about it, but I think more often than not solvent cans say "use in well ventilated areas" because the manufacturer's insurance carriers want a defense to some fool who inhales great quantities of the fumes and then sues them because he got a headache. One good rule of thumb with finishes is that if it doesn't smell like a solvent, it's almost certainly not the best material for the job. Unfortunately, with VOC content regulations today, along with propaganda that has people believing they are risking their lives cleaning a paintbrush in mineral spirits, decent paints and varnishes are getting nearly impossible to find in a lot of places.

 

I'm with Welfalck on this one. I'm not familiar with the specific brand of lacquer he mentioned. (It's probably a European product.) While thinned white glue will work, one has to wait for it to dry and set and once it is set, undoing it isn't always easy.

 

My poison of choice is standard shellac, white or orange. (So little is used that the "orange" brown doesn't affect the color of the line.) I use it "out of the can" and it's the consistency of water. One application and the denatured alcohol in which the shellac is dissolved quickly evaporates (faster even if you blow on it gently.) The line can be worked with while the shellac is drying. More shellac can be applied if need be if the line doesn't want to behave, but that's a rare event. (Too much shellac, or too many coats, actually, will cause a glossy finish that isn't where you want to go with it.) When the shellac is dried, the line will remain stiff the way you put it. If it needs to be undone, an application of denatured alcohol with a paintbrush or cotton swab will soften it. I also use shellac to set rigging knots and servings. Shellac lasts forever (or at least 5,500 years, if the Egyptian artifacts are any indication) and is highly resistant to moisture permeation. For this reason, it also makes an excellent sealer beneath varnished and painted wood.

 

And, perhaps most endearing of all, it's dirt cheap and won't go bad in the can. If it starts to thicken up over time, just add more denatured alcohol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shellac is indeed a good option too. I prefer the other type of varnish, which is a solution of cellulose-nitrate (also known as gun cotton :) ) in amylacetate, ethanol, and ethylacetate, because it stays slightly elastic and is not brittle. It is essentially the same as nail varnish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×