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All,


It seems like there should be a simple answer to this simple question, but I'm struggling with this simple processes of building.

 

How does everyone go about cutting their planks?  My example would be planking between gun ports.  I cut one side and then mark for the next, cut as close to the mark as I can but the cut end needs cleaned up.  I have tried sanding (always round off the end a little, even using sandpaper on a hard surface), disk sander (usually then take to much off), table saw (all the way across the room, inconvenient).

 

Seems there should a very simple way of finishing off these planks I'm just not thinking of.

 

Can you tell how you do it?  Any help would be greatly appreciated. 


Thanks


Shawn

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I would go with the disk sander. A miter gauge - to keep it either square or at the required angle -and a very light touch.

220 grit on the disk.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Shawn, if you are talking about the short pieces between the gun ports, I cut them slightly long, then install them on the ship.  The plank will protrude into the gunport slightly.  Once all the planks are installed for that side of the port, I then use a small fine file.  With careful strokes I file it flush being sure to keep the file 90 degrees to the side. Depending on the size I can also use a very sharp xacto blade or scalpel to trim if needed until the blade is held flush against the side of the gunport frame.  I hope that makes sense?

 

 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

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I do what Downer suggests.   There are sanders with miter gauges (small sanders from places like MicroMark) but they seem to "eat" too much material.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I also had the issue with disc sanders taking off too much too quickly and made myself a little sander that allows to sand plank ends square and at angles:

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/handsander/handsander-02-72.jpg

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/handsander/handsander-04-72.jpg

 

I also constructed a miniature disc sander around a surplus watchmakers lathe. It is powered by a relatively slow-speed motor with controller. In this way the grinding process can be controlled better. For grinding I use either cheap diamond grit discs or flat discs with fine sandpaper glued on.

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/Micro-Grinder-72-006.jpg

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/Micro-Grinder-72-008.jpg

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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5 hours ago, wefalck said:

I also had the issue with disc sanders taking off too much too quickly and made myself a little sander that allows to sand plank ends square and at angles:

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/handsander/handsander-02-72.jpg

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/handsander/handsander-04-72.jpg

 

I also constructed a miniature disc sander around a surplus watchmakers lathe. It is powered by a relatively slow-speed motor with controller. In this way the grinding process can be controlled better. For grinding I use either cheap diamond grit discs or flat discs with fine sandpaper glued on.

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/Micro-Grinder-72-006.jpg

 

http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/Micro-Grinder-72-008.jpg

 

Love your tools!!!

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

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4 hours ago, jhearl said:

Another option from Micromark called Sand-It.

image.thumb.png.4082bebf86f3714f9bf2afc6cd033508.png

I have something older but similar to your Sand-It. Do you find that you are only using a small portion of the sandpaper before you have to replace it?

Thanks, Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

                     

 

Under Construction:       USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

Completed:                     F-35A 1/48 by Tamiya

                                        USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                    Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                    HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                    USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                  USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                  USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                  USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                  USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                          Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Started,On Hold:     Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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Harley,

 

I guess you could put narrower strips of sandpaper on if you never or rarely sanded thicker work.

 

Also, I see that Wefalck in his (typically beautifully made) tool stopped the sandpaper at the top of the work table so as not to sand the edge of it, whereas the sandpaper on the Sand-It as shown in the photo has the sandpaper all the way to the bottom of the sliding block, as seen at the end of the miter gage slot.  Over time, it seems that edge would become uneven, especially if the sanding block is not given full strokes all the way across.

     Richard

 

 

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The sand it is an aluminum extrusion with ridges at each corner.  The sandpaper is attached to the recessed area between the raised edges with the raised edges contacting the guide surface.  The sandpaper never contacts the tool surfaces.

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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I didn't know about the 'Sand-It' sander when I made my own, but it follows the same 'guiding principle', namely the sandpaper is set into a recess, so that the sanding-block is guided as if in rails. One needs to clean the rails and the block frequently, so that the abraded material doesn't grind them down.

 

When designing the sander, I figured that my material would be rarely thicker than about 4 mm, so a sanding strip of 5 mmm width would be sufficient and provide for an economic use of the sandpaper.

 

Recently I started to experiment with sanding strips as used by dentists or dental technicians to smooth the side of teeth. These are plastic strips of about 5 mm width that are impregnated with diamond powder. They are available in various grades. I got them through ebay.

 

There are also steel-strips on the market that are impregnated with diamond powder. I found these very useful for various applications, but still have to design a method to fix them flat on the sanding block - I didn't envisage glueing them.

 

Glueing the sanding strips flat onto the block is an issue. Using spray-adhesive may be the answer, but I have not used it yet.

 

A short while ago I also bought a cheap needle file in China, about 20 mm wide and 200 mm long, which I want to use on the sanding device. Still have to figure out how to cut the file to size without ruining my cutting tools ;)  When filing wood and plastics, these diamond files should last forever. Perhaps one could be stuck to the 'Sand-it' sanding block. Alternatively, there are also now on the market various cheap diamond pads of different grade - apparently they are used to sharpen angling hooks and knives.

 

P.S.: Thanks @Altduck for your kind words on my tools 😇

Edited by wefalck

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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"a cheap needle file in China, about 20 mm wide and 200 mm long, which I want to use on the sanding device. Still have to figure out how to cut the file to size without ruining my cutting tools"

 

I would try a cut-off wheel  and use the tip that was in Ships in Scale 28/5 (Fall 2017) by Monroe Mechling = use a thin  coat  of 5 min liquid epoxy on both sides of the disk to strengthen it.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I essentially do what Downer said at the top of this thread. I also work wearing 5x glasses. I wonder whether or not those having problems are using magnification as they allow me to see when I'm getting off course on a butt end much easier and prevent me from getting to far afield before making a correction. Just a thought.

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

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18 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

The sand it is an aluminum extrusion with ridges at each corner.  The sandpaper is attached to the recessed area between the raised edges with the raised edges contacting the guide surface.  The sandpaper never contacts the tool surfaces.

Kurt

Ah, Yes - I see that now.

Thanks, Kurt

     Richard

 

 

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If you have a straight edged piece of wood on either side of the face being sanded, the tool is

kept square, straight and an even plane is filed or sanded.

The jig pieces can be fixed with Scotch double sided perm. tape   (Iso alcohol neutralizes the adhesive) or made a single unit using

a small bolt and nut and up side spacer the thickness of the plank.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I cut the planks either side of a port slightly overlength then, using a sanding stick with beveled sides away from the sandpaper face, gently sand to the frame edge. To keep the port square athwartships, the stick is rigid and long enough to pass through the port opposite. 

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Hello. I was also dealing with how to make clean edges on the gunports. On the internet i found a simple way of hand-making this. I mark the ends of the boards with a hole-shaped cork, cut it out roughly and then grind it with sandpaper on a strip. After some testing, it works....
 
384100938_brouenokolostlen(7).thumb.JPG.29d89a3d58371705eb5a45a47c87cb8b.JPG
 
736892252_brouenokolostlen(4).JPG.d28e2647088ce169156933ffefdf3c79.JPG
 
308400936_stlny(1).JPG.1b2047db4bbcd1488bc71413db08f286.JPG
 
I use the Proxxon TG 125 / E front disc grinder to grind the board ends. If needed, I slowly turn it by hand taking less material...:) O.

Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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With the Proxxon TG 125 / Ebrousím these surfaces .. :) O.

1224181116_stlnykreslen.thumb.JPG.3ef5bbfab785ca2154744d59d8c8e2f7.JPG

Edited by Ondras71
repair

Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/19/2018 at 12:50 AM, wefalck said:

Glueing the sanding strips flat onto the block is an issue. Using spray-adhesive may be the answer, but I have not used it yet.

    Try using rubber cement.  I have that micro-mark sander and use the cement with it alot as it has good adhesion and yet is easily removed for changing grits.  I find that it also works great for gluing paper patterns to wood, plastic or metal for shaping as any residue left over is easily rubbed off with your fingers. 

Dave

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”  Dirty Harry

Current Builds:  Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer.

Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower.

                  (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II,  MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings,  a scratch build 3/16” scale  Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

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Dave and I are totally in sync on rubber cement - just be careful of the paper - the 5X, 7X, 10X  type

while they hold up well, they have a gummy backing that is incompatible with the cement.

You want a raw paper back.  That paper works well for my sleeveless drums and sanding blocks with

mechanical hold.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I have used my full-size shop disc sander and simply moved it gently by hand with great results.  I also used a finer grit sanding disc.  Of course I realize that this doesn’t answer the problem of walking across a shop every time.  An old pattern-maker trick is to mark your cut line with a knife.  This creates a more exact stopping point for whatever you are using.  The wood grains are already severed at the surface and that will help with the appearance of the board end.  There are special wood working marking knives, but an exacto blade will work fine.

 

This might be your simplest solution.  

-John

 

Member:  Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 3 months later...

Bringing this back as I don't see what I use, which are small disc sander mandrels for rotary tools. They're better than a full disc sander as you use finer grits and you can also cut two angles at once. I use mine in a micromotor but they will work with any rotary tool that can handle a 1/8" bur.

 

These work extremely well for me, and are quick too.

 

20181211_193751.jpg

Edited by vossiewulf
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And all this time I have been thinking I am inept! I find comfort in the responses and of course guidance. On Cheerful there is to be a 1/64 rebate around all gun ports. What I have been doing, before all these very good ideas, was taking my Lee Valley miniature chisel (the 1/8 one) and honing it to near scalpel sharpness. This works most effectively on the vertical rebates before I go any further. Then I gently carve away, bevel side up, the plank ends to the proper relief. For the sills and lintels I do use the chisel, bevel side down to clean up the corners.

 

A very, very sharp chisel will cut the end grain very cleanly (best results can be had with boxwood).

Joe

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