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Scottish Maid by mispeltyoof - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - scale 1:50 - Rod Buckle


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Try making a putty with white glue, water and cigarette ash, it is black. Once applied, with a damp cotton cloth remove the excess. Care that is very hard. When dry, scrape with a blade. If you do not have ash, dye the glue with some Chinese ink. Very important not to damage the model, do tests outside the boat.
A greeting

(Prueba a hacer una masilla con cola blanca, agua y ceniza de cigarrillo,  queda de color negro. Una vez aplicada, con un paño de algodon humedo retiras el sobrante. Cuidado que queda muy dura. Cuando este seca, raspa con una cuchilla. Si no tienes ceniza, tiñe la cola con un poco de tinta china. Muy importante para no dañar el modelo, haz pruebas fuera del barco.
Un saludo.)

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I think I would have to sub ash from my fire pit in the backyard as I don't smoke. interesting solution though.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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No such part on my newer kit. Maybe it is what is now labelled as 'Rudder wheel shaft'. A short length of 0.8mm brass rod that is part of the steering gear, forming the axel for the wheel and a drum for the rudder tiller rope.

 

Glad you managed to take a sharper picture, the colours of the woods are looking good.

 

For anyone thinking of getting this kit, it now includes pre-cut pieces for the forward sections of the capping rail, eliminating the need for a sideways bend. The rest can easily be done with straight strip.

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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Glad the new kit has stopped the torment of trying to sideways bend of the bulwarks. The helm axle appears to require a large wooden rudder to have to top half sanded into a 3mm cylinder than a hole drilled all the way through the ship from below through into the deck ( no room !) .

So I may have to redesign it .

 

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Ah. This is now called the 'Rudder spigot'. Your model probably did not include these instructions that can be freely downloaded from the AL website.

 

Go to

 

https://www.artesanialatina.net/en/classic-collection/429-scottish-maid-classic-collection.html

 

Select the instructions tab and then download '18021 Color'. 

 

Panel  12 may be of help. It shows how to make the rudder and fit the 'helm axel' or 'Rudder spigot' and where that hole should be.

 

I agree, drilling that hole does not look easy. My plan is to position a vertical post on the drill stand and align the drill so it is on top of the post. If I then hold the stern post of the model against this post with the deck upmost and drill down through the deck etc, then the drill should come out just behind the stern post, where it should. Does that make sense?

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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My kit ,dated 1979, tells me to find the wooden block and hand carve the rudder . Then drill a hole straight through the hull to enable the 3mm. Rudder post to poke through ready to connect to wheel/ rudder assembly.What fun and jolly japes this involved .Then after gritting my teeth and drilling through the hull I had struggled to build I inserted the helm/ rudder assembly. As a reward I oiled the hull so it looked better. 😆

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update as now virtually completed the hull. Next to start on sanding the masts to shape .

Learnt never to allow super glue near rope work . Weathered the scuttle butt as the kit provided a light yellow plastic barrel which I thought looked horrible. Sorry I don't know how to put text in-between photos so can't put comments on relative pics.

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Wow, that's quick. Looking good.

 

The time to allow CA glue near rope work is when applying a small drop with the point of a needle to make sure a knot does not come undone. Using thin CA, it will wick into the knot and 'fix' it.

 

To get a picture where you want it. Position your curser and then click on the picture at the bottom. Any pictures you have not positioned this way seem to appear at the end.

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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One thing I'm finding with this kit( maybe the latest version is different) is that instructions can be vague to the point of being totally confusing . An example being the anchors . They are metal but aren't mentioned anywhere in my instructions. On the box they have a large ring moulded on the top.In reality they are blank and tiny. This meant me constructing two rings out of spare brass wire then lashing  them to the top of the anchors. The minimal drawing in the instructions show them attached by hooks fitted to blocks. The hooks aren't in the kit and the blocks provided don't have the two grooves for the ropes shown in the diagram only one. I had to look on this site and YouTube to learn how to scratch build this stuff. This isn't a complaint simply an observation. The learning curve I have undergone has been great. This is where all build blogs (hopefully including mine) gives inspiration to others and especially novices like myself to realise you're not the only one baffled for a day or two by confusing or non exultant instructions.

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A simple needle threader has changed my life after spending a couple of hours attempting to thread a deadeye with aged eyes and fingers.1f642.png:) The threader can be inserted through the tiniest hole ,thread passed through the wire and simply pulled back through. Perfect every time....brilliant

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  • 3 weeks later...

Shrouds and ratlines completed after numerous restarts! At least I managed to complete using knots rather than glue :)Bought some rigging tools from Amati but found them useless. Maybe I don't know how to use them . I find their long handles hard to manipulate so all work done with a small nosed tweezers and my trusty needle threader. Still somewhat clumsy and not all level but slowly improving. Still finding seizing very difficult. Now to fit gaffs ,yards and working rigging.

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Edited by mispeltyoof
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bro, it looks very nice and crisp. could you please take a closeup of the rudder area? I have a feeling you might have something rather out of place there...

I too have this kit, same year too. I bought it as part finished on ebay for about 20quid. I only found the reason for why it was sold later. bad warp in keel. to learn the planking, still would do...

I got as far as fitting the sides , now I have to do the inner bulwarks. I made  slight mod to the kit, where I have raised the bulwark as it was very low. only later I realised, that the kit is wrongly marked as 1:50, where it should be more like 1:100

 

 

Pavol stands for Paul, Pablo, Paolo etc. Please do not try to pronounce it, just call me Pav...

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On 1/2/2019 at 1:33 PM, mispeltyoof said:

A simple needle threader has changed my life after spending a couple of hours attempting to thread a deadeye with aged eyes and fingers.1f642.png:) The threader can be inserted through the tiniest hole ,thread passed through the wire and simply pulled back through. Perfect every time....brilliant

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Slowhand,

 

Current build - Polacca scratch build from Amati plan

 

previous builds

San Martin - Occre

H.MS Resolution - Corel

Half Moon - Corel

Dragon keel boat - Billings

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Have been following your thread, no pun intended and used your advice to buy a pack of needle hole  threaders from Hobby-craft to thread the deadeye things, thanks. 

Edited by Slowhand
Wrong emoji

Slowhand,

 

Current build - Polacca scratch build from Amati plan

 

previous builds

San Martin - Occre

H.MS Resolution - Corel

Half Moon - Corel

Dragon keel boat - Billings

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On 1/20/2019 at 5:39 PM, maaaslo said:

bro, it looks very nice and crisp. could you please take a closeup of the rudder area? I have a feeling you might have something rather out of place there...

I too have this kit, same year too. I bought it as part finished on ebay for about 20quid. I only found the reason for why it was sold later. bad warp in keel. to learn the planking, still would do...

I got as far as fitting the sides , now I have to do the inner bulwarks. I made  slight mod to the kit, where I have raised the bulwark as it was very low. only later I realised, that the kit is wrongly marked as 1:50, where it should be more like 1:100

 

You're right ! I had to creatively "scratch" build the rudder area. The reason being that after I had finished the hull and planking without hitch when I came to fit the rudder I realised that my overhanging stern didn't overhang quite enough! Still have no idea how or why but clearly I couldn't contemplate a total rebuild so had to be creative and change the rudder fitting . Thankfully all looks good and looks as though it's right ( so long as you don't know what it should be 😁)

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Scottish Maid now completed after 600 hours. Many errors but I am reasonably pleased with my efforts. I have included a pic of my use of a fork ( ask a responsible adult for permission before borrowing 😉)for constructing the looped belaying pins ropes. 

After studying the rigging bible I decided to drop some of the highly complex rigging as I thought it would be visual noise for the viewer.

One huge error was to attempt to add the belaying pin rope loops after the complex rigging was completed. Now I need to decide what I'm going to about a display mount. May make a cradle or go fir a column approach. 

Caldecraft HMS Snake has arrived and will be the next project.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
On 11/26/2018 at 1:00 AM, knightyo said:

RE the black paper caulking.  He probably glued black paper strips on the edges of his planks.  (Just one edge, as the "other" side of the plank receives it's caulking from its neighbor plank).  I think the easiest and safest way to caulk is by coloring the edges with a graphite pencil.  

 

Alan

On My Charles W Morgan, I used black sewing thread as the chalking.

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On 11/9/2018 at 6:41 AM, mispeltyoof said:

Trying to reconcile the instructions/diagrams with the plans as the instructions show that A2 is the glueing of support blocks onto the formers and false deck. They then show much later in A4 how to fix the false deck. Once realised that the sequence of instructions and diagrams are not in the correct sequence my head is clearer.

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You actually got instruction booklet!!!!!!

My instruction book int he kit I am starting consists of about 4 pages in English and a lot of pictures on the box that IK need to refer to.

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