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Garboard Strake Width


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Edited by frankwil
Too embarrassed after druxeys post. I've taken everything apart so I don't need this question answered anymore.

Current Build: HMS Beagle 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19447-hms-beagle-by-frank-williams-mamolidusek-164/&do=findComment&comment=593563

 

Completed Builds: 

Midwest Dinghy

Occre Bounty Longboat

 

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Please do yourself a favor and read one of the planking turorials on this site, such as A Primer for Planking. You will see that your garboard runs way too far up the stem. This will give you grief planking higher up the bow later. It also looks as if a bit more bevelling us required on your bulkheads so that the planks sit in a smooth curve without the bends you see now.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I think Druxey is correct and your garboard ends way too far forward.  Looking at the picture the garboard should probably be ending at around the 3rd bulkhead or somewhere close to it and not the first as you have it now.  The curve of the garboard should probably be starting somewhere between 4th and 5th bulkhead. And gently sweeping down. The second plank should follow along and be bent in to lay flat.  

 

Following the article section 11 on page 20 describes this.  I think everyone has pain with this when beginning 

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Is this a double-planked hull? If so, then also keep in mind that what you're adding there is not the true garboard plank -- it's just the substructure upon which to add the 2nd layer of planking. That's where you'll need to pay close attention to actual practice, if that's your goal.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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I totally agree with what has been suggested. If that is the finished garboard, it extends too far up the stem. You will run out of room for the rest of the planks to fit at the bow. I strongly suggest you take it off and give it another go with the end of the garboard sitting much further down. Good luck. 

 

Russ

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On ‎11‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 3:38 AM, frankwil said:

Edited yesterday at 05:32 AM by frankwil
Too embarrassed after druxeys post. I've taken everything apart so I don't need this question answered anymore.

Don't be embarrassed.  It's a learning experience.  If ONLY pull off one or two planks on any given model I am pretty happy.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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Frank: please don't be embarrassed: that was certainly not my intention. As, Chuck says, it's a learning experience we have all been through ourselves. How do you think we learned? We've made the same mistakes ourselves! Good luck with the re-do.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Hi Frank maybe this will help. Have a look at the garboard plank in this example. You will see just how early it finishes at the bow. If it didn’t then the following planks would just start pointing upward at the stem. Also just to let you know I think that plank was about my 6th attempt before I got it where I wanted it. So just keep going mate and it’ll all come right with practice.  Never be embarrassed to ask a question - it’s the only way we learn 

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Thanks everyone for the encouragement. I've removed all planks in order to reshape the bulkheads as druxey suggested. I feel much better about how it flows now. I'm still perplexed with the GB though. In most places I've read - including the "Simple Planking Techniques for Beginners" - that the garboard strake is to be shaped from placing a batten the distance away from the keel the width you want your GB to be. With this method, I'm still seeing it run up the stem somewhat. With a 10 mm wide GB, it runs even further. Is there an alternate method for doing this, or am I just interpreting this wrong?

 

Frank

Edited by frankwil
druxley to druxey

Current Build: HMS Beagle 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19447-hms-beagle-by-frank-williams-mamolidusek-164/&do=findComment&comment=593563

 

Completed Builds: 

Midwest Dinghy

Occre Bounty Longboat

 

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I did read the primer and I know why it needs to be that way. It's just that the method I'm using seems to prohibit it. 

Current Build: HMS Beagle 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19447-hms-beagle-by-frank-williams-mamolidusek-164/&do=findComment&comment=593563

 

Completed Builds: 

Midwest Dinghy

Occre Bounty Longboat

 

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Can you post a couple of pictures to show us what you have done?  Picture's worth a 1000 words.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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So I think I got this. Took all night but I'm fairly happy with the results. I guess it's standard practice to place a steeler at the stern where the GB would have met the rabbett/bearding line had I had one. I did try and carve one, but ruined a keel doing so. I will just have to live with the "ridge" along the keel and sternpost on this model. I will attempt it on my next. Please let me know if this looks ok.

 

Thanks again to everyone,

F.IMG_1812.thumb.jpg.6bc25d9a861cb8d7e553b459fb589fe4.jpg

Current Build: HMS Beagle 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19447-hms-beagle-by-frank-williams-mamolidusek-164/&do=findComment&comment=593563

 

Completed Builds: 

Midwest Dinghy

Occre Bounty Longboat

 

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Now thats more like it mate it seems to rise a little which is ok, and you could lessen this if you like but there's really no need from what I can see.  As you lay the following planks just taper them so that you keep the rise at the stem to a bare minimum.  Just remember that when you do taper planks the minimum width should be no less that half of the original plank width.  Good luck!

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Try lining off the hull before you go any further.  That will tell you how many planks you need and how much to taper them.   There's two pinned posts here that will point you to several instruction "how-tos".    

 

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi andante there is no definitive answer to your question that I know of.  My current build has the garboard strake as the same width as the following planks as it just so happened that it worked that way.  The best way to discover its width is to place the next plank out from the garboard strake and see how this fits running from stem to stern.  It also needs to be parallel to the keel so that all of the following planks are also parallel.  Its at this point you can see just how wide your garboard plank needs to be bearing in mind that it also fits into the keel rabbet and must fill the gap between.  Some builders will say that this is working backwards but it works for me.

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