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Mayflower by Tigersteve - Model Shipways


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I used 1“x2”x3” steel blocks to square the bulkheads. It worked well. Some of the mast filler blocks are installed while I wait for the replacement bulkhead from Model Expo. The remaining bulkheads cannot be squared until bulkhead 2b is installed. 

 

I dry fit the bow filler blocks and beakhead platforms. This will be tricky to install as you need to center the platforms with the reference lines on the bulkhead. I will use the bullwork templates to check the lines before I install the bow fillers and platforms. 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received some new plywood bulkheads from Model Expo. Although the sheet was warped, I was able to salvage bulkhead 2b, which was the one I needed. 

 

Bulkheads are set and stern framing is complete. The stern was especially tricky to align and frame. I hope the fairing will balance any symmetry errors. I’ll have one more update before I put together a wood order. The laser cutting on the wood in this kit could be better. Very inconsistent, non square edges. 

Steve

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Repositioned ZZ one more time. Bulkheads A and B were shifting out of square on the port side so some strips of basswood were used to shift them back in alignment before the dummy cannon support strips were added. The eyebolt at the foremast was created and added after the void was painted black. 

 

Now to put together a wood order consisting of cherry. The decks will be planked with cherry as well. Thanks Mike and Chuck for your input.  

Steve

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  • 1 month later...

Received my cherry order from https://www.crowntimberyard.com/. The photos don’t do it justice at all. Jason stated to me in an email that the color is closer to steamed pear. I have to agree and it’s a beautiful color. 

 

Two of the sheets I ordered had a couple of small cracks. I did email Jason to let him know. That was my only disappointment. However, I believe I have enough cherry for this project. 

Steve

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  • 1 month later...

Completed top and bottom of the gunport framing. The replacement bulkhead 2b is slightly smaller than the kit’s original so the gunport framing curves inward at that bulkhead. It should be fine after the hull is faired.

 

These bulkheads have notches to accept the framing. Be sure to fit the framing strips deep into those notches. The strips were pre-bent with dry heat and spacers were used when gluing the top of the framing. 

Steve

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Gunports are complete. I used a thin strip of wood to mark the port openings. The vertical sections were cut at a 10 degree angle and sanded to fit. A mini 2” chop saw was invaluable for this task. I created a spacer for the gun port openings to make sure they were consistent widths. A photo is attached of the tools used. Fairing the hull is next. 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

The hull is about 99% fair at this point. Be careful with the fragile gun ports during this process. Filler blocks were added at the bow. This made fairing that area much easier and hopefully will ease the job of planking. The stern needed a lot of sanding to get the batten to lie properly. My concern was keeping the shape of bulkhead ZZ symmetrical. The decks were added and the upper part of the hull was faired again. I included several photos. I hope they are helpful to others. 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Planking of the counter is complete. Planks were pre-bent with dry heat and allowed to cool completely. Light clamping was needed as shown in the photos. This area was treated with wipe-on-poly since it will not be painted. Planking bulkhead ZZ is next.

Steve

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Steve, 

Coming along nicely. I’ve seen a few of these kits finished into truly beautiful models. And your’s definitely looks like it will set the standard for that group. My only problem with the kit is it’s dog size. It would be so nice in 3/16 or 1/48. On the other hand hand the smaller scale makes it somewhat jewel like. I will be following your build closely.

 

Kurt

 

I know, I know ... I can always enlarge the plans....maybe I will.

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Great work, this is going to be a beautiful model.

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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  • 4 weeks later...

The planking of bulkhead ZZ is complete. A maple strip was temporarily glued in place to assist with the planking. Gunport lids were created off ship with the jig I used for the panels of my Pinnace. This area is left untreated for now. You can tell the color difference in the last photo. 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

I marked off the reference lines for the initial planks with the bulwark template. Since I will only be planking one layer, I’m trying to figure out the scale lengths and planking pattern for butt ends. I calculated about 4” planks at this scale. I’m trying to follow Chuck’s planking pattern. It seems that some lengths used were longer than 4”. Are all planks supposed to be 4”? Looking for guidance on scale length planks. 

Steve

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Hopefully this info will help you further,

 

The lengths and widths of the planks varied during this period

More info can be found in my log of the Golden Hind (approximately from post 50) 

 

Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long

The average  thickness is 7 cm

The width varied between  36 and 48 cm

The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull

 

Greetings,

Patrick

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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  • 1 month later...

The initial planking is completed starboard. Sanding was done with 220 grit followed by 400 grit. Two coats of Wipe-On-Poly were applied with a 400 grit sanding between coats. 

 

1/16” thick strips were a good design choice for this project. It allows for the needed sanding at the bow, which is tricky to say the least. I planked in scale length planks and left an approx 1/64” rabbet around the gun ports. 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Planking around gun ports- The plank is cut to size and pre-bent with dry heat. Bevel the edge as necessary to get a tight fit. Next, mark the port openings using a straight edge. I like to file the edges and then draw a horizontal reference line representing the top of the opening. Various files are used and the fit of the plank is checked constantly until there is a clean 1/64” reveal. Still working on a more uniform reveal.

Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Two more strakes to go port side. The gun ports are much sharper with a more consistent rabbet. The planking on this side is coming out much cleaner. I will most likely close the gun ports starboard and leave the ones port side open. I’m learning a lot from this initial planking. 

Steve

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Now that the initial phase of hull planking is almost complete, I thought it would be useful to share the method I’ve been using to plank around this tricky bow.

 

1. Measure 80% of the 1/8” plank width and mark at the tip of the plank. It’s .1”. I use digital calipers for this. Mark 3” from the edge of the plank and draw a line from this point to mark the taper. I sand up to this line by running the plank across a 220 grit sanding block. 

2. Bevel the plank to fit against the previously laid plank on the hull. 

3. Soak the plank in hot water for 5-10 minutes. (This is the only time I use water.)

4. Clamp the plank to the hull and heat the plank until it’s dry. Let it cool. 

5. Mark the butt joint and sand. Test fit on the hull. 

6. When you have a nice fit, mark the edge of the plank to simulate caulking. 

7. Apply glue and re-clamp. 

For the hot water I use a Keurig. I keep a disposable coffee cup in my work area. This works well since the plank lengths at the bow are short. I’ve included a photo of the clamping. 

Steve 

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Port side planking is complete. Two coats of wipe-on-poly applied at this point. I hope the photos show how nice this batch of cherry wood is. 

Steve

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Really looking excellent...Moab

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. 

 

I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. 

Steve

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  • 1 month later...

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 

Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve

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  • 1 month later...

Back to planking the remainder of the hull in basswood since this will be painted. Almost done with the first belt on the port side. I anticipate many rounds of sanding and filler. Not obsessing over this part of the planking, as I’m fairly sure I can get a nice surface for painting. A drop plank was created at the bow, which I may show in a later post. 


Nothing worth photographing at this point, but here’s a photo of some plank bending. 
Steve

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  • 1 month later...

Port side planking is complete. There’s more sanding and filling to do, but I will continue after I complete the starboard side. Rushing through some of this caused me to veer off my initial planking plan, which caused some problems and some weirdly shaped planks.

Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hull planking is complete. Several days of sanding and filling. I used 100 grit through 400 grit. After primer is applied I will see how much more work is necessary to achieve a smooth hull. The stern needs more sanding. I will sand more in that area after the keel and stern post are attached. 
 

A tip for those building this vessel in future. Add filler blocks for the first three bulkheads. This will show you if you have the correct shape and help with fairing and planking. I did not fair enough in some areas. The shape at the bow is tricky. Mine still needs work. 
Steve

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