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Ship Cradle


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John

 

The one I made was a 2x4 and 4 to six nails and foam padding.

 

The 2x4 was 24 inches long, used 3 inch nails with a large head, 2 holes were drilled every 6 inches at an angle, to cradle the hull I used thin foam doubled padding.  you can actually rotate the hull in the cradle quite a bit to change the angle depending on where you are working.

 

Man it is ugly but works well if you have shallow pockets.:wacko:

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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I have used them and found them useful.  the material its squared off sides worked well to quick store stick pins and to keep parts handy, and were especially useful while rigging. I used the large piece of the ship, the smaller part for longboats and smaller ships and the smallest part to brace other pieces while waiting for them to dry.  

Was it essential? No. Was it useful? Yes.  Could I have made my own? Probably.  

Richard  

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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I use them and find them excellent. They give you a great deal of flexibility moving the ship around easily...Moab

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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I save the foam when anything comes boxed with foam that looks like it might be useful, then cut to fit as needed. Beyond that, I have found that the split foam tubing sold at the hardware store to insulate pipes is great for making cradles. Just cut sections to the length you need and then stack them up lengthwise to make a "cradle" and run some masking tape around each end to hold them together. Keels fit between the two tubes at the top of the pile and you're good to go.

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Take 2 lengths of plastic overflow pipe at 300mm long and 2 lengths at 200mm long. You now need a length of circular foam insulation, the type plumbers use on 15mm copper tubing. Cut 2 lengths to suit the 300mm pipe. Slide the foam onto the pipe with a squirt of PVA glue. Cut 2 lengths of foam at about 100mm. Push the 200mm length of pipe through the foam already fixed, squirt PVA onto it and slide the short length of foam on. Push the free end through the other fixed length of foam. Repeat at the other end.

Result is a soft, maleable foam base for cradling your ship.

Cheap, cheerful and effective.

Aitch

 

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I bought them when they were on sale - haven't used them yet, but I think when I get copper plates on my models, I'll be more inclined to use the foam cradles rather than the kit ones.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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