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Hi all model makers. I love our hobby ,the only thing that scares me when building is doing the name on the boat and scroll work if needed. I grew up with applying decals to all my plastic kits and that was easy.   However ,  I'm just about nearing the end of the Bluenose by Model Shipways . The build has been a labour of love but always in the back of my mind was the dreaded lettering and scroll work , If you could offer some advice I would be most grateful. Thank you all and happy boat building....Jim

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Maybe if you could photograph the work required and then take it to a lettering shop or maybe Officeworks and get them to print same to the scale required onto an adhesive backed vinyl strip , you can then strip the backing off and stick it to the hull.

Maybe you can get some Lettraset.

just a thought.

Eddie.

Current Projects: Souvereign of the Seas by De Agostini

                            Sciabecco. By Amati

Finished projects: Port Jackson by Modellers Shipyard

                             Botter boat by Amati

                             King of the Mississippi by Artensia Latina

                             Endeavor by Artensia Latina

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Fabric shops here have letter size sheets of Mylar, used for patterns.

A computer drawing program = font sizing and rotation

Web has sites with free fonts.

An exact pattern of the location can be made from the model and that scanned into the drawing program

You can practice the scroll in the drawing program.

Print the result on the Mylar - cut it out and you have a stencil

double stick tape to reduce seeping

 

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

BrownSkateDecal_360x.jpg?v=1544389507

There are many products now on the market which permit you to make your own decals with an ink-jet printer. They are popular with model railroaders for signage on model railroad rolling stock. There is a special type which permits printing white letters. I've never used it, but they've got it.

 

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Custom-printed decals would be my first thought. However, you need a special printer that is able to print 'white'. It is a while since I searched the market, but then there were only one or two models around for home use. There are various suppliers for custom-decals for modellers though.

Not sure how good the market for these still is, but there are also dry rub-on letters, e.g. by Letraset. Dito. for lining, inclduing curves - check out model railway supplies.

It would be probably an overkill for just one or two name-boards, but one could also etch a stencil from thin brass and then spray-paint with it the lettering.

Finally, there is a steady hand ... 👹

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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A lot of people make white decal paper - but that doesn't give you white letters ...

 

A semi steady-hand option would be to print the outline of the lettering on a clear decal sheet and then fill the letters with paint, while the sheet is flat on the table. Should be a lot easier than doing it on the model and wou have infinite tries too.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Use the white background paper for white letters.  You have to match the color of the surface you are putting the decal down onto for the area surrounding the letters so the decal doesn't show.  Remember to make sure the surface where the decal is going has to be glossy so the decal doesn't "silver" with trapped air between the decal and flat paint - apply the appropriate dull or matte coat over the decals once dry.

Kurt

 

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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42 minutes ago, kurtvd19 said:

Use the white background paper for white letters.  You have to match the color of the surface you are putting the decal down onto for the area surrounding the letters so the decal doesn't show.  Remember to make sure the surface where the decal is going has to be glossy so the decal doesn't "silver" with trapped air between the decal and flat paint - apply the appropriate dull or matte coat over the decals once dry.

Kurt

 

Toyed with this idea at various times, but unless the background has a uniform and 'simple' colour that seems to be difficult to achieve, even, if you cut the decal very close to the lettering, thus minimising the printed area.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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The Bluenose is a perfect subject to use white decal paper on because the hull is black. I have made 2 MS Bluenoses and drew the name and scrollwork in Turbocad, with the yellow and black printed, leaving the letters white. It worked great and the decal was all but invisible.

From about as far from the ocean as you can get in North America!

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