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Heinrich der Seefahrer

St. Philippe 1693 by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Heller - 1:100 - converted from Soleil Royale kit

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Posted (edited)

There are some good reasons to build SR as a WLmodel...

Tje very first is this iceflat area underside!


On the other hand it is an impressive and gorgious sized kit.

The scale for SAINT PHILIPPE is due to  keel length 1:91




Edited by Heinrich der Seefahrer
Scale added

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Posted (edited)

I suppose you could scribe in planking on this flat area, but it really isn’t visible when the model is in a display base.


The important thing, I think, would be to raise the load waterline by a solid quarter inch.  If you do not cut away the lower hull to make it a waterline model, then you will have to carefully scrape away the moulded waterline, because it will telegraph through whatever paint you use for your “white stuff.”


This one simple alteration really improves the appearance of the model.  Just look at your hull clipped together; without paint clearly demarcating the stock waterline, the hull form looks pretty good, and sufficiently rounded in the hold.


If you decide to experiment with Evergreen wales, you could probably raise the lower two wales another 1/8”, at midships, and then correct the exaggerated forward sheer of the wales.  Keep in mind, though, that doing so will require alterations to the head rail arrangememt and the hawsers.

Edited by Hubac's Historian

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Posted (edited)

Dear Hubac, thanks for the hint with the two waterline-stripes. I'll keep that in mind.


Raising the CWL is an idea I thought about till I opend the box. The number of a „a solid quater inch“ sounds realistic when we look at the lines and the kit's hull. The best seems to raise it up to the lowest gunwale.


I'll have to figure out several points in and at the hull during the next days or weeks:


As I want to build a baroque like stand for her I'll have to add some inner structure in the hull to rest thewight of the kit on four simple long screws - manteled with a decor element as an enlarged column from the transom or some alegoric figure sculptures.


So I need to establish four strongpoints inside the hull to rest the four srews inside.

This will be under the UD in the empty nowhere of the hull.



Edited by Heinrich der Seefahrer

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Hello yesterday I decided to try to act as a scientist... 


I thought, if I get the inner form or the hull I could easily construct bulkheads to build an inner structure. But how to come to such an inner form? By using building foam! 

So I painted the hull with oil closed the lower transom by the kitpart with tape and filled in foam...and I stoped at the line of the gundeck... I promice I did!


My idea is to cut the foamblock into slites to get my bulkheads, so I can copy them onto birchplywood and saw them out. This inner structure will hold the hole wight of the kit on its four point stand. So I bought threaded rod and drive-in-nuts (not: werft-mother, stupid Google 😉 ). So the Under-gundeck area is well connected to the hull, because this gluing-area takes all the comming wight of the hole SAINT PHILIPPE - from the masts to the gun barrels to the rigging and bolts and gratings been pulled and pushed into the kit.

And until I can open it I have to wait 24h ... 

Under the transom on the edge of the lower transom part there the tape opend and foam got out and got aou and more... so I dont knor how the wood struchture under the foam on the outside of the kit looks like.


May be the solvend ruined the kit... but there will be a fat layer of antifouling paint - there is some hope left. So I may have god good luck in the middle of bad luck. We'll see in some days! 





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This looks very interesting and I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out. My experience with using expandable foam at work is that it may not fully expand to fill all the space evenly. Many times there can be holes and gaps. They can always be filled in easily enough though if any appear.


Hopefully the oil base you applied will act as a good bond breaker but if not, most foams clean up with some effort and solvent.

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Don't passed the exam... the building foam is still wet and I easily broke out a part of the keel...


...after waiting three times longer as been told in the spray cans manual!!!


Waiting some more days.


The positive thing is, that the foam gives a very percise repeat of the surface. And  that these clamps for IKEA curtains realy catch the parts very hard and press them together very tight.


Okay so this trial ended in a draw.








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