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What’s the best way to scratch build cleats?

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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Hi YT;

 

A cleat in this context is a metal or wood object which is used to make fast (belay) a rope from the running rigging, so that whatever is at the other end of the rope will not move.

 

They come in all sorts of sizes.  Think of something like the top of a longhorn steer's skull with the horns poking out to each side, both in a straight line. 

 

The rope is passed under the horns, and over the middle, around and around in a figure-of-eight pattern.

 

They were fixed to the ships' sides, to the masts, or to the shrouds (this latter type are called shroud cleats)

 

A cleat is also the name for a small timber batten, used to hold something in place.

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

 

Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans.

2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans.

 

Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB 

 

On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research.

 

Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. 

 

Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS

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Hi Grandpa,

 

I guess that very much depends on the scale and period you are building.

wooden cleats can be done in various ways: miling a strip of wood into the outer profile you need, and sawing off cleats in the width you need.

or just forming them one by one froma strip that has the correct width and thickness.

 

metal cleats, I never did one, but I guess that there are also various ways....

Jan

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Hey Grandpa,

 

This is the best way I know of to make cleats from scratch..

Syren Ship Model Company    ( There are several sizes.  This is one example. )

 

Cleats.jpg.bd8b46bafbc8143c1553e33bfed4ccad.jpg

 

 

OK, so not scratch..  But at that price, your time is worth a lot more.

 

As amateur mentioned, using the example from Syren, you could shape some stock to that profile, then slice of a piece and shape it accordingly.

 

Metal?  Paint them accordingly and call them metal..😂

 

Edited by Gregory

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans.

Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs.fiferail 6.JPG

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Use a hard dense wood, cut a pattern, define the lines with files, finish with sandpaper up to 400 grit, apply tung oil. I made all the cleats I needed in my previous boat quite easily. Link to that page

 

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/9355-24-exploration-gaff-rigged-ketch-by-vaddoc-scale-112-a-tad-roberts-design/&page=8

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Actually, it is nearing the time I will need cleats so I sat down today and did a bit of CAD. Maybe this template will help others. The printer settings can be used to scale up or down. The vertical lines are for through bolts/tree nails.

cleats.pdf

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3 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Actually, it is nearing the time I will need cleats so I sat down today and did a bit of CAD. Maybe this template will help others. The printer settings can be used to scale up or down. The vertical lines are for through bolts/tree nails.

cleats.pdf

Thank you very much, I saved a copy.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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Pleasure!

 

I made a cleat with this template, in the last two photos the cleat had a bit of tidying up sanding and a coat of Tung oil

 

20190216_145225.thumb.jpg.0f191fbdcd07e743fde5666f0d550aa3.jpg

 

20190216_151350.thumb.jpg.2e3b4992fa17bc61445aa9f87753aea8.jpg

 

 

 

 

20190216_151619.thumb.jpg.b6345c38299759d75cf734a9afd91343.jpg

 

20190216_151659.thumb.jpg.c24a6d146ca31b8bf319dc2f66a6266b.jpg

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Nice work.  I saved a copy also.   :)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I haven't tried it, but I'd think that a tumbler would wipe out a lot detail since it take off the high spots and do nothing for inward curves.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 2 years later...

Actually the same techniques can be applied to wood, metal, and plastics. I prefer metal or acrylic glass for small parts over wood, as I then don't have to worry about the wood-grain. If you need to have the parts look like wood, it is quite easy to simulate this with paint.

 

I have, for instance, milled the cleat-shape from a suitable rectangular brass profile and then sliced off individual cleats. If you let a spigot protruding from the foot of the cleat, you have something to hold it in a pin-vice for further shaping operations and, of course, for mounting it later on. The same technique works for acrylic-glass, which is easier to shape, but more brittle than brass.

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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