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2mm block threading


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1.  Open up the hole in the block with a #80 or #79 drill.

2.  Dip the end of the rigging line in thin CA (super) glue.  Just about 1/4" or so to stiffen it.

3.  Cut the end of the line at an angle to form a point.

4.  It should go right into the block.  If it won't the line is the wrong size.  For instance, at 1/96 scale a 2mm block is about 8".  The hole resulting from a #80 drill will accommodate a 3-4" c line in 1/96th scale which is about right.

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28 minutes ago, Fred stickel said:

Thanks dave i will give a try.

Any tricks on not getting the ca all over the place. It runs like water and i seem to get it eveywhere except where needed.

This is true.  working over a piece of paper or tinfoil will catch the drips. CA is great for some things, but I agree, it is somewhat nasty and messy to work with. While it doesn't set up quite as stiff as CA, I sometimes use clear nail polish. (The color really doesn't matter, since the end will eventually be cut off.) The acetone thinner evaporates very quickly, especially if you blow on it for a few seconds. It's really just a matter of getting something on the thread that will stiffen it enough to get it started through the hole. Nail polish comes with a brush in the cap and isn't messy at all. Cheaper than CA and with a longer shelf life, too.

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I put the CA on my thumb and then run the line through my thumb and forefinger. I have never stuck my fingers together as of yet, just pull it off my fingers when I am finished. Messy but works well.

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

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CA comes in 3 sets I tend towards the gel on certain items takes a little longer to set but you do avoid the mistakes and messes of the 5 second CA.

After knocking over a container of the 5 sec. and it spreading so fast like a rushing river it was a mess. Fumes were so bad they ran me out of the room.

Not long after there were some postings about setting bottles in stable containers where they could no be accidentally knocked over.

Stupid is as stupid does. Gel is best and any mistakes in gluing can be avoided and corrected before it sets.

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Get a good set of mini reamers in different sizes. These have became my most useful tools when rigging. They enlarge and CLEAN the holes. I have used them in blocks down to 3mm, which is the smallest I can handle. 

 

 

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I hold this size block in a fly tying vice, ream the hole out slightly with a very fine drill bit then use a doubled over very fine piece of copper wire taken from the core of a piece of electrical wire. BTW an upturned glass jar (with concave base) makes a good receptacle for a few drops of CA glue.

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery)

                                    Caldercraft  - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery)

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina

                                                                   - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina

                                               

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On 2/14/2019 at 1:12 PM, Fred stickel said:

Any tricks on not getting the ca all over the place.

Go to Amazon and get several hundred tattoo ink cups for about $10.

Drill a hole in a 3"x5"x1/2" or so piece of wood to hold the ink cup. Set in there it will never spill.

Fill the cup with the CA container, put CA container away where you can't knock it over.

Use a piece of wire with a loop in the end to apply the glue. Cut off and make a new loop as necessary.

Apply the CA in dots, don't try to smear it around. This increases the open time of the glue and will result in fewer mistakes of glue where you don't want it.

 

Also, keep your CA glue container in the refrigerator, it will last far longer. You can purchase a better buy bigger container and not worry about having to throw half of it away.

Edited by vossiewulf
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