BareHook Posted May 21, 2013 Share #1 Posted May 21, 2013 I'm getting ready to install the pedestals and baseboard. Do I need to shorten the pedestal slots and add chamfers on the inside to align to the hull contour? Or are they just installed "as-is" with the keel not all the way to the bottom of the slot? Thanks Ken Quote Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat Completed Build: MS AVS On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted May 21, 2013 Share #2 Posted May 21, 2013 So long as the keel is snug in the slots and the screws go up into the keel, the slightly different angle of the slot should not matter that much. From outside the slot, it should not show any differently. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nacioffi Posted June 10, 2013 Share #3 Posted June 10, 2013 I think Chuck Passero recommends gluing the pedestals to the keel viv a vis screwing...since screwing them to keel can split the keel Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted June 10, 2013 Share #4 Posted June 10, 2013 Nick: You stll have to screw them into the keel because the screw has to go up through the baseboard to hold the pedestals in place. The only way for the screws to do their job to hold the pedestals is to screw into the keel. Otherwise, there is no point in using the pedestals. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BareHook Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted June 10, 2013 Mine worked out fine for my AVS, as seen in my log. You have to be carefull in creating the countersinks for the screwheads on the bottom of the baseboards as this controls how deep the screw will be tapping into the keel. Ken Quote Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat Completed Build: MS AVS On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthilgen Posted June 10, 2013 Share #6 Posted June 10, 2013 Before screwing to keel, pre-drill hole a two or three sizes smaller than needed. Increase to required diameter. Eliminates cracking keel. EricWilliamMarshall 1 Quote Current Build: La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65 On The Shelf: San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96 (Remake), H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48, H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64, La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65, La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65, Completed: San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50, Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144, Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50, H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146, H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50, Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25, Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96, Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50, Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45, PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72, U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Wood Posted June 12, 2013 Share #7 Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Is there a rull-of-thumb so to speak for the distance apart, of the pedestals for a specific scale model? 1/3 third looks abut to me, but I don't know if it's correct or not. Thanks, Tim Edited June 13, 2013 by Timothy Wood Quote Tim Current Build: Future Build: BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull BlueJacket - U.S.S. SAMUEL B. ROBERTS, DE413 | Butler-Class Destroyer Escort BlueJacket - 310' Destroyer "The famous "four-piper" of both World Wars" Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack) Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht) Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch) Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build) CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit) Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit Blue Ridge Models - USS Alaska CB-1 (Resin Kit) Completed Builds: 18th Century Sea Mortar Endeavour Half Hull by BlueJacket Ship Crafters Scratch Build - Atlantic (Schooner 1903) Half Hull: Winner of the 1905 Kaiser's Cup Race. BlueJacket 80' ELCO PT Boat 1/48 scale Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmo Posted June 16, 2013 Share #8 Posted June 16, 2013 Rule of thirds seems to sit best but you're best to set it up roughly on that measurement and make sure it looks right. I've laid the pedestals on the full size plans to make sure it looks right. it could also depend on other factors like length of bowsprit. It's obviously got nothing to do with supporting the hull but its worth considering I'm building a bomb vessel with a sprit about a third as long again as the vessel and its worth just setting the pedestals either on the plans or under the hull if you've got that far and sticking a dummy pole on the front to make sure it still looks right. EricWilliamMarshall 1 Quote Current build Enterprise class 28-gun frigate 1774 - scratchbuild 1:36 RC Completed builds Cruizer class brig - scratchbuild 1:36 RC HM Bomb Vessel Granado - Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne - Caldercraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Wood Posted June 17, 2013 Share #9 Posted June 17, 2013 Timmo, Thanks that helps a bunch! I never thought to set the pedestales against the full sized plans, thats a great idea. Cheers, Tim Quote Tim Current Build: Future Build: BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull BlueJacket - U.S.S. SAMUEL B. ROBERTS, DE413 | Butler-Class Destroyer Escort BlueJacket - 310' Destroyer "The famous "four-piper" of both World Wars" Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack) Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht) Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch) Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build) CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit) Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit Blue Ridge Models - USS Alaska CB-1 (Resin Kit) Completed Builds: 18th Century Sea Mortar Endeavour Half Hull by BlueJacket Ship Crafters Scratch Build - Atlantic (Schooner 1903) Half Hull: Winner of the 1905 Kaiser's Cup Race. BlueJacket 80' ELCO PT Boat 1/48 scale Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipman Posted December 1, 2019 Share #10 Posted December 1, 2019 I make my pedestals from cut off chessmen from yard sales. Carefully drill your holes through the keel including a strengthening pad inside. Then securely bond a brass or stainless bolt from above. Drill a close fitting hole through the middle of the 'pedestal' and cut a snug slot for the keel. Push it up the threaded part of bolt. The bolt then goes through your base board and is secured with a recessed washer and nut. Cheap and simples; works every time and doesn't move on a 3-4 foot model. Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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