HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Gregor – FINISHED - Caldercraft – Scale 1:64 - first build

[Gregor]

Progress is very slow at the moment, and I’m seeing some difficulties: While the shrouds and stays are in place, it’s very crowded in the top.

 

 

 

 

This is a consequence of my rather naïve disregard for plans. I have built all the parts after Petersson and picture sources; but I have forgotten that these parts have to fit together in a working system. You can see that the stays loop around the mast rather narrowly; therefore the blocks for the Jib Halliard are very near the mast and leaving only little space for the yard…

Well, it’s still fun, and I’m learning a lot, and my admiration for the builders of sailing ships is rapidly growing.

 

 

Seen from across the room it doesn't look so bad, after all.

Cheers

Gregor

[tkay11]

Well, it looks great to me! But I'm nowhere near starting the rigging yet as I'm still debating the placement of the aft companionway, its direction and its height. So I look forward to hearing when or if you change the arrangements round blocks for the jib halliard.

 

I'm interested in the boom crutch you've placed at the centre of the transom. I'm trying to fashion one out of wood at the moment, and I was thinking of putting it into a socket that is replicated on port and starboard as the plans suggest that kind of placement to me. Is yours made from brass (something I've also considered)? It would be nice if you could post a picture showing its placement and say how you made it, as I might change my own plans as a result!

 

Thanks again for demonstrating (as have Kester and Dirk) the potential of this nice kit.

 

Tony

Edited December 8, 2014 by tkay11

[Stockholm tar]

Gregor,

 

She's looking great.

 

I know what you mean about the bight of the stay around the mast. I believe I mentioned in my last log posting, that I thought I had made mine a little too small – not by much, but giving just about enough room for the halliard to pass through it and belay to the rail in front of the mast, without fouling too much on the way. The preventer stay, which I am now in the process of fitting, makes it even more confined. I don't think the yard will be a problem in this regard, as it is set rather lower than yours. I think this is one of the areas on the model where measurement, etc., is critical for it all to work. I'm not sure I have it quite right.

 

I try to envisage each part of the ship working, if possible, so that various parts of the rigging, etc, don't impede one another. However, it is not always possible. I agree, the builders of these vessel certainly knew a thing or two, as did those who sailed them.

Edited December 8, 2014 by Stockholm tar

[Gregor]

Thank you, Tony and Kester.

Yes, the Alert-type of rigging separates the parts rather nicely from each other - my jib halliard chafes at the yard, and that can't be good...

 

But here, for Tony,  some pictures of the boom crutch on the (big) model in the Londoner Science Museum (no longer in display), from Petersson.

 

 

This model was the inspiration for my modernization project, and I tried to make a crutch resembling the one shown on the Sherbourne plan.

 

 

My crutch is made from bent (but not flattened as in the model above) brass wire, soldered on another piece and a washer, placed in a hole drilled in the taffrail.

 

 

I hope that helps.

Gregor

[tkay11]

Thanks very much, Gregor, that helps a lot! Nicely made!

 

Tony

[Gregor]

It’s that time of the year: While the reasons for my slow progress are mainly not hobby related, here is one culprit who is stealing some of my Sherbourne time – please meet HMC Dragonfly.

 

 

It’s a jewel of a resin kit in 1:35 scale from Langton Miniatures. And another small cutter has just arrived, from the same producer: HMC Firefly, white metal7brass in 1:1200 scale.

 

 

Whenever I think I have a problem rigging the Sherbourne, I have a look at these two and at the super thin fly-fishing threads I found in a local shop, and feel instantly better.

More Cheers

Gregor

[Gregor]

I spent quite some time now with rigging. The latest addition to my Sherbourne is a bobstay; as I learned it’s really an important part that prevents the bowsprit being lifted upwards. Tony has started an interesting discussion about the subject here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8646-bobstay-for-bowsprit-on-sherbourne/?p=256873

 

 

My bobstay goes from a hole in the stem to a fourth eyebolt under the cranse iron, is fully served and has two double blocks.

Only after that was in place I dared to belay the backstays and topmast backstays. Both are inspired by Chuck’s Cheerful (the plans have been published now).

 

 

They are rather far aft, but not as much as on the original plan.

 

 

The running rigging has yet to be belayed, much is hanging loose.

 

 

I think it was necessary to test all the lines with their belaying points so they do not cross or chafe on each other, thankfully that went well.

 

      

  

Next I will do the ratlines, anchor cables and, lastly, the braces.

There will be some flags, I think, something mostly red with a cross will look nicely… (Further research in the matter will be needed).

 

 

My best wishes for New Year

Gregor

[Kurt Johnson]

Gregor, Which of the NMM prints did you use? The three on their web page look almost identical. They're a little expensive to get them all and then not use most of them. Do you think getting them all is worth it?

Kurt

[Gregor]

Hi Kurt

This is the one I have bought: http://prints.rmg.co.uk/art/494933/plan-of-the-sherborne-1763.

I thought it the cleanest version, and like it very much, standing framed on my worktable. I don't think any of the others give more details.

Title: Plan of the 'Sherborne' (1763) Product code: J8467 Copyright: © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London  

Cheers,

Gregor

PS: I hope you will show us your Sherbourne in your own build log - enjoy it!

Edited January 1, 2015 by Gregor

[Kurt Johnson]

Happy New Year. Thanks for answering my question. I noticed the reference in your original rigging thread and ordered a copy last night! That should take about 10 days to reach the states. I'm going to replace the walnut with boxwood and try a clinker hull. Not much modeling time with work so it will be slow going. I've read all the current Sherbourne builds on MSW. Wish the MSW 1s were still around.

Kurt

[tkay11]

I've been going over your log yet again, Gregor, and now that I'm almost ready to start the bowsprit and the rigging, I have an intense interest in the belaying plan.

 

You have said you considerably modified your old belaying plan, so I am wondering how you have changed it. In particular I would like to know how you have placed the points for the jib inhaul and outhaul, the topsail yard braces, the foresail downhaul and the lower yard counter-braces -- all of which have the special belaying rack forward of the windlass on Petersson's plan.

 

Now that I have made a windlass along the lines of yours (i.e. as per the original plan), the only option would be to attach a rail on either side of the pawl if I were to continue with Petersson's idea. However that would mean a real crowding of the deck space between the pawl and the stem.

 

As a result I am trying to cut searching in the darkness of my lack of knowledge and understanding, and instead asking for the simple solution that I am sure you would have found! 

 

As usual, I'll be very grateful of any ideas!

 

Tony

[Gregor]

Tony, welcome to my personal dark side…

At first, I wanted to use the timberheads extensively, but that did’t please my eyes. At the moment I’m thinking of doing the following:

Inhauler and outhauler are belayed in pin 1 and 3; the inhauler comes in on the port side of the stem, and the outhauler through a hole I made in the bulwark (I didn’t like the idea of lines coming in over the railing).

The bowlines rove through the triple block on the cranse iron, come in over the railing and are belayed at the tip of the bowsprit bitt (green arrow).

The squaresail yard counter-brace starts on a block at the cranse iron (standing end), roves through the block at the end of the pendant, comes back through the block, comes in through a hole in the bulwark, and is belayed at the bowsprit bitt crosspiece (red arrow).

The topsail counter-brace (the topsail braces are belayed at the aftermost pins in the stern) starts at the yard, roves through the thimble just behind the cranse iron, comes in through a hole in the bulwark, and is belayed also at the bowsprit bitt crosspiece, outside the squaresail yard counter-brace (green arrow).

 

 

This is far from perfect; the topsail counter-brace will chafe at the cathead, both will be made fast with a clove hitch instead of a more suitable pin. Starting again from scratch, I would make a bowsprit bitt with pins (and knees!)

I hope this helps answering your question. I add my belaying plan here; but now that Chuck’s Cheerful plans are out, I think they are a solid base give the Sherbourne a modern rigging. In hindsight, though, I think also that a historically correct rigging would be very interesting (although I still cannot make sense of the flying jib boom on the bowsprit).

I’m looking forward to see your new windlass,

Gregor

Sherbourne Rigging.pdf

[tkay11]

Thanks a lot, Gregor. I like the fact that you did add a pin rail, but immediately behind the stem. Very crafty (I hadn't noticed it before). I'll now study this and come to grips with it all.

 

As to the windlass -- yours is definitely better than mine, but I've much enjoyed making it. I see that the blocks holding it to the bulkheads don't reach the deck in your model -- in mine they drop to the deck, but I wasn't sure about it. I'll leave mine as is.

 

I'll start posting all the updates on my build soon, but there'll be little interest for you. The main differences are: (1) my boom crutch -- I've placed holders for the crutch on either side of the the stern -- as a result of Chuck's Cheerful. (2) I've threaded the ropes for the steps into the ship through the steps themselves. (3) You'll also see the compromises in rigging the gun tackles I tried as a result of the 3-pounder carriages being smaller. (4) I altered the rear companionway to be in line with the plans, and added the ship's bell to its top. (5) I've shortened the tiller considerably and given it an S shape (because of the position of the companionway on the plans). (5) I've left out the fife rail in front of the mast and left room instead for the galley pipe).

 

Thanks again for the considerable help and advice you continue to give!

 

Tony

Edited January 2, 2015 by tkay11

[Kurt Johnson]

Gregor, Some of the Sherbourne builds refer to problems with the plywood bulwark pieces. What specifically is the issue and the solution?

[Gregor]

Hi Kurt

There was nothing technically wrong with the bulwark pieces in the kit. I would recommend soaking and bending them around a tea mug before gluing. Just make sure not to confuse the two sides.

In my model the sweep ports are a little too small – my fault. I made another mistake: I should have made sure that the distance between the ports and the upper end of the bulwarks is the same everywhere; a little careful sanding will do. You can do that with the bulwarks mounted, before adding the capping rail.

My only “complaint” regarding the bulwarks was that they are not entirely true to the original plans: The portholes are sitting too low. To correct that, it would mean to elevate the deck accordingly – I wouldn’t recommend opening that box.

I think these bulwark patterns are an excellent idea to make a beginners kit even easier to build.

Good luck,

Gregor

[Kurt Johnson]

My plan, when I get there, as far as gunport height might be to plank over bottom descrepency to the proper height then fill in behind it with scrap before the inner bulkhead is planked. I'll make up one of the cannon or some kind of jig for consistency. So far I have just remade the stem and keel piece in boxwood. I'm waiting on the NMM plans before I do much else. I ordered them a while ago, they just emailed on the 15th to say they're mailed. From England to the States should take about another 7 to 10 days. Takes me back to preinternet/Amazon days. I'll just have to work on some patience in the meantime!

[Gregor]

Kurt, I wish you every success with your project (I hope you share it with us in a build log). I only hope you consider the implications of what you are trying to do. Simply elevating the level of the deck so that the guns fit the new portholes is the easiest part. Outboard, it changes the positions of the chains and the wales; in the stern (also simplified in the kit) it would mean structural changes.

 

 

But I understand the urge to change things all too well, and learned a lot in doing so.

Gregor

[Kurt Johnson]

Looking at that picture I see what you mean. I didn't notice the ports where rirght up to the caprail.

[Gregor]

I have been busy since Christmas. Today I found Tony’s question about topmast shrouds (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8622-topmast-shrouds-for-sherbourne/?p=279366) - here is my solution: As described by Wolfram zu Mondfels they go around a futtock stave (8mm long brass wire of 0.5mm) and are made fast to the shrouds by lashings.

 

 

It’s one of several possible solutions. As I made crosstrees and not a spreader, they could also have gone down parallel to the main shrouds to be belayed at the deadeyes. I preferred the shorter version.

Then came the ratlines; there is not much to say (except: don’t do them all in one stretch of eight hours if you’re no longer a teenager, as your back and every muscle there will severely complain.)

 

 

Now the yards are squared, every rope and line is securely belayed, it was like a balancing act. Here some impressions.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I’m coiling the ropes.

 

 

Cheers,

Gregor

[Stockholm tar]

Gregor,

 

Now that is one great looking Sherbourne. Very well done!

 

I particularly like the shot of the complex rigging at the crosstrees. You have reminded me of the 'joys' of the ratlines to come – and no, I won't be doing them all at the same time! I think they'll be one of the last jobs to be done, when most of the running rigging is finished off.

 

 

 

[Gregor]

I always wanted to know how an anchor comes to rest at the rail of a cutter.

 

 

Discussions and Literature are mainly about bigger ships. In smaller vessels anything seems possible. The best descriptions I found were in Harland an Lever (from page 68, http://books.google.ch/books?id=HmJJAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&hl=de&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false).

 

 

So I had to make a fish-davit. I liked the one on the Victory the most (the Sherbourne and her bigger sister share the builder, after all). Several models had to be tested.

 

 

The first, only as long as a man, and standing in the chains, did obviously not work (see the angle of the white fish lanyard).

 

 

Double length was much better. A strong line goes from the cathead to the davit on to the chains to keep everything in place. The davit itself hangs at the burton tackle an can within limits be lifted or lowered, as it is standing in an iron made fast on deck.

 

 

Maybe the davit should be a trifle longer? But I really was able to fish the anchor and place it at a timberhead, with a little help of my boathook-fingers. The little wooden fender (or shoe as it is called by Lever) wasn’t really helpful protecting the model hull, but makes a nice detail.

I fear this is the last detail to add to my Sherbourne. She got her flags, too.

 

  

 

 

Cheers,

Gregor

 

[tkay11]

Yes indeed. Not only beautiful to look at, beautifully and carefully made, and lovely historical research -- as well as yet another signpost to the kind of thing I should attempt.

 

Thanks very much, Gregor, for your wonderful continuing input. I can't get over my luck at having you, Dirk and Kester all doing such wonderful things with your Sherbournes. You all provide such terrific guidance, ideas and gently get me on to the right path whenever needed.

 

Tony

[Kurt Johnson]

Beautiful! What's your next project? You had better have one soon! I really love following your build. By the way, I finally received my plans from the NMM a couple of days ago.

 

 

Kurt

[Stockholm tar]

Gregor,

 

So your Sherbourne is finished, and very beautiful she looks too! Very well done!

 

I'm sure the fish davit is possible, although I have not seen any examples on cutters, but I query the white pennant at the masthead. Since she has a red ensign, I think the pennant would have been red too. (Btw, I intend using a red ensign as well, red pendant and possibly a jack.)

 

Just a little niggle though, on what is a lovely model. As Kurt said, what's next?

Edited January 31, 2015 by Stockholm tar

[davyboy]

Hi Gregor,

 

That is a beautiful model,love your depiction of the anchor Fish Tackle. For info,The Fish Davit Beam length should be 3/10th of the ships extreme breadth according to Goodwins' Sailing Man of War. It fitted into a shoe located between the 1st and 2nd deadeyes.

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[Gregor]

Thank you, my friends, for the likes and kind comments – the compliments go both ways: Don’t underestimate your collective influence!

I’m glad I don’t have to close this log too quickly: Kester has it right; there is a new pennant to add (I will give her a tricolour pennant to match my own streak of independence); and while I ordered a few small things for my next project I added a additional kedge anchor for the Sherbourne, to be placed in the starboard chains. And, this afternoon, two handspikes for the windlass...

 

There are still her two little sisters, the Dragonfly (1:350) and Firefly (1:1200) to finish, too. This is quite convenient, because I have to do the heavy sanding outside – it’s too cold for that at the moment. In spring, everything will be ready for the Schooner La Jacinthe after the plans by Jean Boudriot in 1:64. The false keel, deck and the bulkheads are already cut. But for now, the cutter story is not over, yet.

All the best,

Gregor

 

[Stockholm tar]

 

'there is a new pennant to add (I will give her a tricolour pennant to match my own streak of independence)'

 

Gregor,

 

Tricolour pennant, independant commission, ok, I'll give you that!

 

'In spring, everything will be ready for the Schooner La Jacinthe...'

 

SPRING! Can't come too soon for me... nice schooner by the way.

 

[Gregor]

Fun days in my wharf: HMC Firefly is ready for rigging, as is her big sister, the Dragonfly.

 

 

  

 

Turning to things less complex, here at last is the new pennant for the Sherbourne.

 

 

All this is a pretext to tell you that I have opened a new build log for my next project – you can catch a glimpse of the French schooner “La Jacinthe” in the background, or head over to http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9743-french-schooner-la-jacinthe-la-mutine-by-gregor-–-164-scale-1823-1835/?p=288578 .

All the best,

Gregor

 

 

[Gregor]

Rainy days – finally I’ve found time for my small cutters again. I spent hours with fly-fishing tread. As shown in the Langton’s manual, I drilled small holes (0.3mm) and glued a small, bent piece of wire in (you can see one of these hooks on the wale beneath the anchor; this one is for the bowsprit guys). The threads were fastened to that hook with CA, and a little brown paint simulates a block. Looks easy, doesn’t it?

 

 

I’m feeling a little proud of myself. After many discarded, broken or otherwise destroyed pieces I came up with an idea for a three-hole-deadeye: A thin piece of 2mm brass tube was “filled” with a toothpick, glued, and drilled.

 

 

I really can recommend a Langton kit as a rewarding side project!

Cheers,

Gregor

[Gregor]

My fleet of cutters is now completely rigged; tiny Firefly is completed, Dragonfly still awaits her flags and crew. Here a few images:

 

 

 

 

It was a good decision to replace mast and bowsprit with brass. They are looking slimmer, and are no longer prone to bend. This was the biggest challenge with Dragonfly, where I have used the original white metal parts. This will not happen again (yes, there is another project in the pipeline).

 

 

 

The brass sails are relatively heavy, compared to the fly-fishing threads and soft masts. I tried to use copper wire (from a power cable), but this was totally out of scale. Now I’m quite happy with them.

Cheers,

Gregor