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HMS Victory by nickedw - Caldercraft - 1/72nd Scale - First wooden Ship build


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..., the Arizona is that plastic?

Yes it's the 1/200th scale Trumpeter kit with the KA models deluxe accessory set (laser cut veneer deck and lots of photo etch) it also has correct brass props added.

 

The photo etch set costs about the same as the kit. Well worth it though.

 

Nick

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  • 2 years later...

Well Winter is here, so time to dust the old girl off. Lots of progress, but not many photos during construction I'm afraid.

 

Here's where I'm up to:-

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Finished Glazing all of the gallery now,

 

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Scratch built the compasses and lantern

 

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Scratch built the scroll work for the mouldings by forming lead wire into a D channel and curving onto a plasticard backplane.

 

23126281685_2a10a8629c_b.jpgbuilt all the chainplates, soldering the links for strength, and fitted the first one.

 

22521714643_380f27dc16_b.jpgCaronades rigged.

 

More to follow.

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw
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I've decided to compromise and partially rig these six guns, as the training tackle won't be visible under any circumstances I've decided to omit it. Pictures to follow.

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So I just went for the main rigging on the 'hidden' guns in the end. I think this is a reasonable compromise

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The deck is fitted now anyhoo.

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A little bit more deck to do then the fun with string really begins.

 

Nick

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Hi Nick

 

Great to see a catch up.

She's looking good, a real credit to you.

I love the work you did on the lathe for masts, I'm a sucker for jigs and fixtures (in my DNA)

I expect you're looking forward to rigging and the fiddly work?

That's were I'm at with my Vic.

All the best

 

Nick

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AS I had already prepared the planks, the deck went on fairly quickly:-
23191464941_2db15be7ac_b.jpg
23155084065_13b0436fd2_b.jpg

 

I had already built the skylight and flaglockers.

The skylight is glazed with glue'n glaze for that hand blown glass look.

Nick

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Got a little more work done this weekend, planked and capped the poop deck, installed the flag lockers and knees,built the two platforms and ladders, although not fitted yet.
22854450779_def3a5c3c3_b.jpg

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Just discovered your Victory Nick. Looks great. You've given me some excellent tips and lots of things to think about for sure. I will be following the rest of your build with interest. I'm way behind you on mine.

 

Best, Ian

Edited by Seventynet
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Hi folks, bit more activity and I thought I would show how I made the scrolls, as I have more to make for the second side of the ship. I had considered making resin casts but as 6 of the 8 required are unique I decided it wasn't worth it.

Anyhow, here' what I do:-

Firstly I use an excellent rolling tool designed for forming cylinders from photo etch material. This is one of those expensive modelling tools that you agonise over buying but then proves invaluable on the times you need it so never regret purchasing.

22931624549_f7316c2110_b.jpg
 
It's a nicely machined alloy base with a set of rollers that match each half cylinder cut-out, I formed a couple of test pieces to show what's it's really designed for.
 
So what I'm doing is using some lead wire (solder actually in this case)

23216916531_d193ff460b_b.jpg
 
dropping it into the smallest C channel,

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then using the largest roller to compress it into the form

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like this
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and ending up with a nice D section
22671153924_a982fa57ca_b.jpg
There is excess material, flash, on either side, just scrape off with a scalpel
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I use the wooden kit item as a template for plastic sheet
22672382363_1a089e0ba5_b.jpg
and carefully form the D section onto the plastic template with the flat to the back of course
22931623829_ce1b37d398_b.jpg
I then use plastic rod as the centre piece and form the second rail in the same way, hot CA when happy with the curves and intersections.
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Finally I heat form some plastic strip (chamfering the end) to fill the void and with a sanding board, reduce the height of all the plastic to match the lead work. Tamiya thin cement takes all the 'noise' out of the plastic - scratches, nicks etc.
23299518795_ddc7f9a63a_b.jpg
Lastly, Mr surfacer is your friend to ensure everything is smooth and blemish free
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And that's it. MAtches the prfolie of the brass section fairly well I think and an improvement over the kit item
23003726210_db8663e485_b.jpg

Here's the real thing
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and the model
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Hope this may be of use to someone!

thanks for all your support with the build,

Regards,

Nick

Edited by nickedw
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Whilst I'm at it, here's how I make rings for the many eyes on the vessel.

 

I use black coated florists wire and form around the shank of a drill bit for varous sizes as appropriate

23191218892_c3e2fbcd18_b.jpg

23003726040_9072c9d3ac_b.jpg

 

I find cutters fail using the extreme tip all the time, so I have ground down the top jaw of some cheap flush cutters designed for printed circuit boards (the bottom jaw is still full length to locate it the wire)

23299520385_145179fb80_b.jpg

This gives me rings (more or less) with a handy gap the right size to insert into kit eyelets

23299520295_ccde348fb4_b.jpg

 

Just flatten them when inserted, and close up the gap with pliers. I then re-spray with matt black to remove any scratches and marks caused by assembly..

 

Here they are in use

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23299520185_c906b410fc_b.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw
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Been doing some work on detailing the poop deck ladders - it's looking very dusty now I look at the shots!

23060356950_ee9ff666e0_b.jpg

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Added some plastic sheet profiles to the cheeks of the ladders and frames, chamfered the edges and dry-brushed (a bit too much looking at it) to pop the detail.

 

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw
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although I'm very much a dog person, I must admit I did enjoy building the catheads:-

22778248863_b2c05f4235_b.jpg
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Here's a few general views of progress - A long way to go!

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23322858551_7af64e0e7f_b.jpg

Thanks for looking,

Nick

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  • 4 months later...

Nice work Nick.  I like the way you finished the glass panes with a rippled effect. I think I will try that on my build when I come to it.

 

Robert

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  • 2 years later...

After a very long lay-off, I'm back on the horse now and enjoying my build.

 

I've never been happy with the turned brass buckets provided in the kit and the real items are very distinctive with the GR coat of arms.

 

Nobody I can find seems to make a decent after market replacement for these, which is surprising as I think they are very noticeable and unrealistic  if left plain.

 

So I've been considering 3D printing or making some Photo Etch, both of which I've done in the past for other projects, so I have some experience in this area

 

In the end, I've gone for the simplest solution of ink-jet printed cartridge paper, and I think, they look OK:-

IMG_8540.thumb.jpg.5889fbcc92092775af0a7e382d5fc6f7.jpg

 

I've attached the illustrator file I created in pdf format, if you want to use it - PRINT AT 10% OF FULL SIZE, max dpi your printer is capable of and use good quality matt cartridge paper, not gloss photopaper.

 

buckets.pdf

 

When you have everything cut out, paint the back and all edges matt black first, leave a tab on one end  to make the joint, like this:-

IMG_8534.thumb.jpg.a8ce0f03b24b82e6350b02d80af51700.jpg
Form the curve, by rolling around a metal rod about 60% of the diameter of the finished bucket.

IMG_8536.thumb.jpg.bb6cdb3c191bc7418b71358906472f04.jpg

For the bottoms, I used the smallest size on my rotary punch tool to punch out cartridge paper disks, paint the paper black first as it's difficult to paint the inside of the bucket bottom!

IMG_8537.thumb.jpg.a7086c0ecd563d93ded42e23204f9c66.jpg

The handles are just thin strips of cartridge paper, again painted black. on all edges. This is easiest to do when attached at both ends it turns out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Made a start on the rigging now (Eeek!) so took a few shots of general progress today. Also cracking on with the hammock netting which I have really been putting off.

IMG_8614.thumb.jpg.a370f40d1da302507dde78d4a5fb674b.jpg

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Been cracking on with the much-dreaded hammock-crane netting today.

 

Turns out it wasn't too bad. I developed a technique that uses a paper pattern cut and then folded to the shape the net needs to be. I then cut my tulle slightly larger than this, drop the both into the opening and weight down with a scalpel which is heavy enough and just the right shape to make the net conform. I then stitch one vertical end as belowIMG_1677.thumb.jpg.c7afcc135af788e29cd3ec877df2d55c.jpg

Once a vertical end is stitched, I then fold the top edge of the tulle down and stitch the rest as below:-

IMG_1679.thumb.jpg.bcd50e17d305801514046bc0b7362a60.jpg

Finally seal everything with watered down PVA and trim the edges. I haven't trimmed the one in the photo yet in case you're wondering)

IMG_1680.thumb.jpg.420c2276d199b545dbc51c47f87ad5ba.jpg

The paper makes it conform to shape, gives a high contrast (and isolation of the work) and acts as a guide for the needle. So it turns out a job I've been dreading wasn't that bad in the end. I've also discovered how useful draping a tissue over sticky-out stuff is to prevent snags when sewing stuff like this is!

IMG_1678.thumb.jpg.11f0b1f7bd1445e51c9e0de9d30da917.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everyone, I’ve been doing a bit more work on my Victory. 

I was never very happy with my mast-making set up, I have a model engineers metal working lathe, and a little ‘toy’ mantua lathe I’ve never really used. 

So I thought I would put some effort into getting a better setup. 

The main issue with the mantua lathe, is it’s all made out of polycarbonate so the Chuck is a bit rubbish and doesn’t tighten properly, so long thin pieces slip, whip and destroy themselves. 

To cut a long story short, I decided to start drilling some holes in it...

D894903B-EAC5-4D09-917A-109D9AB79529.thumb.jpeg.45f4922f2215e00f412f8f1464bc4f86.jpegEEE5517A-2C39-42BF-A6A0-7F2CEA47A915.thumb.jpeg.181f78a2becccd589f34787a5aba2751.jpeg

So one in the tightening ring to get some leverage, with a steel rod inserted, which transformed it into a useful bit of kit from someting I was about to abandon, so while I was drill-happy, I also drilled 8 indexing holes and added a ply strip as you can see, that gave me the ability to cut squares and octangons easily as well as turning. 

This works really well I think:

5A406377-887F-4B29-BAF9-00789D874DEE.thumb.jpeg.bafae87b050a05df26d89c1102c5cf5f.jpeg81CEDACA-9343-4B07-8DDD-234FD82DFF47.thumb.jpeg.f2faf65929864d338554b102415f36e6.jpeg4C57D543-EA04-43D3-B3C5-E568C6BA7E54.thumb.jpeg.8f8216476e76308a02721c9c58e40aa0.jpegDF9E6AE8-5B29-41C8-B10D-4C6A6D8E044F.thumb.jpeg.9fd60a5e0d44b106871bb1de2f892734.jpeg

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Edited by nickedw
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Fun with mice today.

 

I'm trying to produce a decent looking mouse for the next stage of my build, so I turned a wooden former on the lathe from scrap dowel

victory-mouse-5.thumb.jpg.a50b3cd229283d3067cd5c9fcbb8a62f.jpg

I then modified my server that I built a few weeks ago, by adding a couple of nylon gears I had in the parts bin, and then threading them with .25mm  thread

victory-mouse-6.thumb.jpg.3e846c63c100b447e03c71d92cc91e70.jpg

I then carefully pulled them in to the base of the mouse taper, ensuring they were evenly distributed

victory-mouse-8.thumb.jpg.8d0ac7c2ef4bb7173501c905699f807c.jpg

victory-mouse-9.thumb.jpg.61190872faccdfedd097d5af3cdeebe7.jpg

After that it was just a question of darning a covering for the wooden mouse formed, here's how it turned out

victory-mouse-2.thumb.jpg.e9c178897426e6b06b2275381b20ad0c.jpg

victory-mouse.thumb.jpg.44a997b9482cdfbaad441468aa3ab98e.jpg

victory-mouse-3.thumb.jpg.cbbbcf732bc61bfba39481c49bfa23d9.jpgvictory-mouse-4.thumb.jpg.ebe8b52fc072030ec791869481b2f453.jpg

Edited by nickedw
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