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nickedw

HMS Victory by nickedw - Caldercraft - 1/72nd Scale - First wooden Ship build

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..., the Arizona is that plastic?

Yes it's the 1/200th scale Trumpeter kit with the KA models deluxe accessory set (laser cut veneer deck and lots of photo etch) it also has correct brass props added.

 

The photo etch set costs about the same as the kit. Well worth it though.

 

Nick

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Well Winter is here, so time to dust the old girl off. Lots of progress, but not many photos during construction I'm afraid.

 

Here's where I'm up to:-

22707745027_3cb30fa484_b.jpg

Finished Glazing all of the gallery now,

 

22520167274_169c80cc99_b.jpg

Scratch built the compasses and lantern

 

22503529464_2a32e78158_b.jpg

Scratch built the scroll work for the mouldings by forming lead wire into a D channel and curving onto a plasticard backplane.

 

23126281685_2a10a8629c_b.jpgbuilt all the chainplates, soldering the links for strength, and fitted the first one.

 

22521714643_380f27dc16_b.jpgCaronades rigged.

 

More to follow.

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw

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I've decided to compromise and partially rig these six guns, as the training tackle won't be visible under any circumstances I've decided to omit it. Pictures to follow.

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Hi Nick

 

Great to see a catch up.

She's looking good, a real credit to you.

I love the work you did on the lathe for masts, I'm a sucker for jigs and fixtures (in my DNA)

I expect you're looking forward to rigging and the fiddly work?

That's were I'm at with my Vic.

All the best

 

Nick

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Just discovered your Victory Nick. Looks great. You've given me some excellent tips and lots of things to think about for sure. I will be following the rest of your build with interest. I'm way behind you on mine.

 

Best, Ian

Edited by Seventynet

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Hi folks, bit more activity and I thought I would show how I made the scrolls, as I have more to make for the second side of the ship. I had considered making resin casts but as 6 of the 8 required are unique I decided it wasn't worth it.

Anyhow, here' what I do:-

Firstly I use an excellent rolling tool designed for forming cylinders from photo etch material. This is one of those expensive modelling tools that you agonise over buying but then proves invaluable on the times you need it so never regret purchasing.

22931624549_f7316c2110_b.jpg
 
It's a nicely machined alloy base with a set of rollers that match each half cylinder cut-out, I formed a couple of test pieces to show what's it's really designed for.
 
So what I'm doing is using some lead wire (solder actually in this case)

23216916531_d193ff460b_b.jpg
 
dropping it into the smallest C channel,

23299519585_cede464ec2_b.jpg
 
then using the largest roller to compress it into the form

23299519575_753b24f022_b.jpg
like this
23299519485_7e38c82a44_b.jpg
and ending up with a nice D section
22671153924_a982fa57ca_b.jpg
There is excess material, flash, on either side, just scrape off with a scalpel
23299519345_7d34023f8f_b.jpg
 
I use the wooden kit item as a template for plastic sheet
22672382363_1a089e0ba5_b.jpg
and carefully form the D section onto the plastic template with the flat to the back of course
22931623829_ce1b37d398_b.jpg
I then use plastic rod as the centre piece and form the second rail in the same way, hot CA when happy with the curves and intersections.
23216915681_1674c00d5a_b.jpg
Finally I heat form some plastic strip (chamfering the end) to fill the void and with a sanding board, reduce the height of all the plastic to match the lead work. Tamiya thin cement takes all the 'noise' out of the plastic - scratches, nicks etc.
23299518795_ddc7f9a63a_b.jpg
Lastly, Mr surfacer is your friend to ensure everything is smooth and blemish free
22931622939_d285bc1358_b.jpg

And that's it. MAtches the prfolie of the brass section fairly well I think and an improvement over the kit item
23003726210_db8663e485_b.jpg

Here's the real thing
23004180770_386ac976f1_b.jpg
and the model
23004788230_d7a04e6693_b.jpg
Hope this may be of use to someone!

thanks for all your support with the build,

Regards,

Nick

Edited by nickedw

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Whilst I'm at it, here's how I make rings for the many eyes on the vessel.

 

I use black coated florists wire and form around the shank of a drill bit for varous sizes as appropriate

23191218892_c3e2fbcd18_b.jpg

23003726040_9072c9d3ac_b.jpg

 

I find cutters fail using the extreme tip all the time, so I have ground down the top jaw of some cheap flush cutters designed for printed circuit boards (the bottom jaw is still full length to locate it the wire)

23299520385_145179fb80_b.jpg

This gives me rings (more or less) with a handy gap the right size to insert into kit eyelets

23299520295_ccde348fb4_b.jpg

 

Just flatten them when inserted, and close up the gap with pliers. I then re-spray with matt black to remove any scratches and marks caused by assembly..

 

Here they are in use

22671154724_63eb46dc45_b.jpg

23299518365_c55cdccf7c_b.jpg

23299520185_c906b410fc_b.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw

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Been doing some work on detailing the poop deck ladders - it's looking very dusty now I look at the shots!

23060356950_ee9ff666e0_b.jpg

23330016186_93aa68285e_b.jpg

22727769944_7eb0aafb28_b.jpg

 

Added some plastic sheet profiles to the cheeks of the ladders and frames, chamfered the edges and dry-brushed (a bit too much looking at it) to pop the detail.

 

 

Nick

Edited by nickedw

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Nice work Nick.  I like the way you finished the glass panes with a rippled effect. I think I will try that on my build when I come to it.

 

Robert

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After a very long lay-off, I'm back on the horse now and enjoying my build.

 

I've never been happy with the turned brass buckets provided in the kit and the real items are very distinctive with the GR coat of arms.

 

Nobody I can find seems to make a decent after market replacement for these, which is surprising as I think they are very noticeable and unrealistic  if left plain.

 

So I've been considering 3D printing or making some Photo Etch, both of which I've done in the past for other projects, so I have some experience in this area

 

In the end, I've gone for the simplest solution of ink-jet printed cartridge paper, and I think, they look OK:-

IMG_8540.thumb.jpg.5889fbcc92092775af0a7e382d5fc6f7.jpg

 

I've attached the illustrator file I created in pdf format, if you want to use it - PRINT AT 10% OF FULL SIZE, max dpi your printer is capable of and use good quality matt cartridge paper, not gloss photopaper.

 

buckets.pdf

 

When you have everything cut out, paint the back and all edges matt black first, leave a tab on one end  to make the joint, like this:-

IMG_8534.thumb.jpg.a8ce0f03b24b82e6350b02d80af51700.jpg
Form the curve, by rolling around a metal rod about 60% of the diameter of the finished bucket.

IMG_8536.thumb.jpg.bb6cdb3c191bc7418b71358906472f04.jpg

For the bottoms, I used the smallest size on my rotary punch tool to punch out cartridge paper disks, paint the paper black first as it's difficult to paint the inside of the bucket bottom!

IMG_8537.thumb.jpg.a7086c0ecd563d93ded42e23204f9c66.jpg

The handles are just thin strips of cartridge paper, again painted black. on all edges. This is easiest to do when attached at both ends it turns out.

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Made a start on the rigging now (Eeek!) so took a few shots of general progress today. Also cracking on with the hammock netting which I have really been putting off.

IMG_8614.thumb.jpg.a370f40d1da302507dde78d4a5fb674b.jpg

IMG_8615.thumb.jpg.bc5f760b6e6f28dc8bf87f03518e97ff.jpg

IMG_8616.thumb.jpg.1849dbb4c1e388ff7a421f60f013a75f.jpgIMG_8617.thumb.jpg.9479f70f502f33500c8ae3de583e5f09.jpgIMG_8618.thumb.jpg.5d7afe9bc2df0f81b25abe0358e10284.jpgIMG_8619.thumb.jpg.7ee06dbc8ac7a6336ad2dac4f57817ff.jpgIMG_8620.thumb.jpg.f1656f7a42f22251c0e03e44626f7d7b.jpgIMG_8621.thumb.jpg.18619b46e78908fa21c4a6c64b61e6b5.jpgIMG_8622.thumb.jpg.45b27b4b1654405495b9490d91d5d821.jpgIMG_8623.thumb.jpg.bd8d69735442f03c944068b08ca3ee73.jpg

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Been cracking on with the much-dreaded hammock-crane netting today.

 

Turns out it wasn't too bad. I developed a technique that uses a paper pattern cut and then folded to the shape the net needs to be. I then cut my tulle slightly larger than this, drop the both into the opening and weight down with a scalpel which is heavy enough and just the right shape to make the net conform. I then stitch one vertical end as belowIMG_1677.thumb.jpg.c7afcc135af788e29cd3ec877df2d55c.jpg

Once a vertical end is stitched, I then fold the top edge of the tulle down and stitch the rest as below:-

IMG_1679.thumb.jpg.bcd50e17d305801514046bc0b7362a60.jpg

Finally seal everything with watered down PVA and trim the edges. I haven't trimmed the one in the photo yet in case you're wondering)

IMG_1680.thumb.jpg.420c2276d199b545dbc51c47f87ad5ba.jpg

The paper makes it conform to shape, gives a high contrast (and isolation of the work) and acts as a guide for the needle. So it turns out a job I've been dreading wasn't that bad in the end. I've also discovered how useful draping a tissue over sticky-out stuff is to prevent snags when sewing stuff like this is!

IMG_1678.thumb.jpg.11f0b1f7bd1445e51c9e0de9d30da917.jpg

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