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Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

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Martyn - nice touch

 

Working on the flags - My technique - might be of use to some---

 Use a wire to pre coil the ends. Add Elmer’s Glue, and now spool the end around the wire

 

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Add  hobby masking tape, roll/twist the wire up and down then remove it before glue sets

 

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After glue dries here is the tube shaped end

 

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Now using CA Gel run a bit along the intended rope, double the length of the flag’s end let it harden

 

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Run the stiff rope through, add a ring and then return the end back through the flag’s coil. BUT first add, Again CA Gel along both lengths of the rope. Pull through from the other side.

 

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Next pics are self-explanatory.

 

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WORK in progress. Now need to figure out a way not to have the whole thing fall apart when soaked in starch for the flags shaping’s.

BECAUSE when I initially experimented using only the Elmer’s Glue with a piece of extra flag material– the starch saturated coil just fell apart. It was as if starch removes any trace of glue – grrr  My reason for the above CA glue insurance.

 

I’ll post results of the next steps -- need to preserve the already done work _ (I have some ideas) Hmmmm

 

PS: I did make some mistakes by coiling the flag's ends on the wrong side. I had intended, when flags just hung, that the brighter colored face would be the face of the flag.

I know that I can still do that, but a couple of the coiled bits don’t look so good wanted to hide them when the flag hung around the mast.

 

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Cheers,

 

 

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Hi Mates,

Well the flags came out as I had hoped. Using starch, as opposed to watered down glue has some advantages (for me in any case)

1) It dries flags into shape as soon as the starch dries within seconds (using a blow dryer-low heat low, speed – adjusting the distance)

Your fingers need to be part of the shaping as well when using the dryer – yup they can get a bit hot.

 

2) If the “shape” is unacceptable, you can always re-soak the area and reshape ( I had to do this for the large stern flag to get the final shape I wanted)

That said – Who knows it the shapes will hold over time?

 

Next post should be shots of the completed build along with its case.

 

Oh PS: that stern flag is incorrect but I sure like the looks of it - haha

 

Regards,

 

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flags look good Michael........I realized that what I showed was likely a dutch flag :)   I looked in the box I have allotted for the Gothenborg parts,  and the flags in there are the same as yours...smaller scale of course.   your almost at the finish line of your wonderful ship.  

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Dens, Patrick Thanks mates.

 

Working on attaching the flags, but came up with an unanswered dilemma. Need some advice –Please.

 Googled this -- how to attach flags to flagstaff on 16th century ships. No help beyond the first photo below.

 

Anderson, does not address this – only writes about proportions of flagstaffs to other masts - 

 

The next two photos are my dilemma. Should the flag rope lengths at least extend down to the closest platform in order to be properly rigged? Any help will be appreciated – might need to re-string at least two flags, not biggie but Hmmm.

 

As always thanks for your help, dropping by and the likes.

 

Regards,

 

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Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for your responses.  I assumed as much (sort of) but was hoping for an easy resolution. 

So for the fore, main, and mizzen, will re- rope the flags using much thinner/longer rope (thanks Henry)

 

Now need to understand where the shrouds should run to the tops. Through or around the platforms?

Prob. around the outsides, but that will make for sloppy looking details, and poss. criss-crossing the already numerous lines.

Along with the flags not "hanging" parallel to their flagstaffs. 

 

For now doing the two easy ones, bowsprit and stern flags.

 

Again thanks for your input mates......

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Hi Michael,

It may be explained before in some topics but I didn't found, I apologize...

Please let me know the origin of these wooden parrels?

Hand made, kit supply, purchased from a store? (if purchased, what is the size and which is the store?)

Thank you.

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Ferit,

 

These parrels came from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK. 

They are from Amati sold as fittings.

Make sure that you get them from Amati - The Corel ones (that can be ordered) may be the same as what was included in your kit?

Mine were metal spacers and plastic beads.

The Amati have wood colored plastic spacers and wood beads. They look very good IMO.

They come in doubles, or triples.

 

4384/10 Mast Parrels with Spacers 10mm  (photo shows two rows but there are three with the 100mm)

4384/06 Mast Parrels with Spacers 6mm

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=parrels&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!

 

Regards,

 

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Hi Mates,

Last build update for this Vasa – the next (last one) will be some shots of her full views - completed. Hard for me to believe  :cheers:

Just finished the flags better rigged. Henry, et al – thanks for your advice; pics of the three masts.

Tomorrow I go to pick up the case cover, and move her to her new room.

 

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Thank you Michael for the info.

Denis, as Michael told; Corel kit supply was made from metal (coopper?) and plastic. IMO to find parrels in; right/appropriate size and shape and material (wood) and good quality from a store is not easy. Nowadays I spend lot of time to make my own blocks. Corel and store ones (that I had bought before to replace kit supply blocks) are too bad.

Michael's choices (blocks, parrels, riggings lines, etc...) are very good and satisfying...

Michael, your Wasa Log is really a reference source... I understand better when I need it.

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Hola Michael:

You have really done a splendid job, especially considering that your finished boat has nothing to do with the original Corel Kit and much to do with the Vasa found in the museum. I remember your first post in February 2013 about Vasa, and although time has passed, it has been well worth it.


Ready for the next project?

:champagne:

 

Saludos, Karl

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I love the color of the wood in the model. Can I ask what wood and what finish you are using on the different parts? I'm about to start the Billing Vasa and have already started the Deagustini Vasa bu I can't stand the plywood and the planking material. I also can't find  a nice stain or something that I like.

and ofcourse congratulations on this wonderful build.

 

Br

Jörgen  

Edited by Passer

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Hi Mates,

 

Well she is done. Last pics for this log, a big thanks, especially to those of you who have followed along – for such a long time!! adding your kind and encouraging words, and all of your important advice. So many of your compliments have also helped me become a better builder – again thanks. Big thanks for so many of your Like clicks and visits as well.

 

Captain Steve: Up next, after much hand wringing –it was between the Billing Oseberg (1/25th

As much as I became obsesses with Vikings after watching all seasons of The Vikings this kit is just too big (my fault for not paying attention to its size during the purchase) Yes there are smaller size kits – could be…..

 

So having learned so much with Vasa, I will go with the OcCre Santisima Trinidad cross section. I intend to bash the heck out of it, including leaving some of the lower and upper gun deck planking bare, as well as poss. at the weather deck as well – showing the, to be added,  under framings. And trying my first at coppering the hull. 

 

Jörgen regarding the woods – those that came with the kit, along with wood from Corel’s Mirage. Then from Midwest products; some walnut, mahogany, Cherry, and beech. I did not use any finish on this build, nor do I intend to.

 

Again Mates THANKS SO MUCH for your kind words.

 

Regards,

 

 

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Congratulations on finishing your ship! She looks great and you should be proud of what you have created. Enjoy your well earned drink and best of luck on your next build. I look forward to following along with it! :D

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