What blade for what purpose?

[glbarlow]

I'm moving to scratch building with the Echo cross section and buying a scroll saw to cut frames. Lots of choices there but my question is what blade (size, type, model - not manufacturer) for what purpose. Specifically what blade to use to cut frames from boxwood for the Echo, which one to use for small pieces of wood and very precise cuts without splintering, how to augment my Byrnes saw with precise cuts, curves, 90 degree turns etc.

 

I've never owned a scroll saw. I'm sure it's a different experience than all the othe model and big boy power tools I have.

[WackoWolf]

Try and make sure the saw you get can use pin-less blades, this way you have a bigger choice of the different types of blades that you can buy for the saw.

[glbarlow]

Thanks, but still interested in knowing more specifically what blade to use for what purpose.

[WackoWolf]

Someone will give you that information, I am not the best one to answer that, there are people here that have a heck of a lot more experience than I do to answer that.

[S.Coleman]

Yor right there are a handful of different blades for different jobs. The big wide chisel like blade # 11 is mainly used for heavy duty cutting work. It has a lesser angle of the blade. The smaller, skinnier blades #1 are used for the more smaller pieces they have a greater angle of the blade. The rounded blades #11 are good to rock back and forth to get that cutting motion. To prevent splintering of the wood use lite strokes of the blade, each time cutting a little deeper as you go without putting too much pressure on the knife. I must add try to avoid the scalpels with a blue plastic chuck that holds the blade as these can break and be dangerous. I use a brand called Excel, they are stainless and very durable. Your local hobby shop will have a selection hopefully. As for the scroll saw I'm afraid I will have to leave that for someone else to answer. Hope this has helped you.

[mtaylor]

Greg Herbert recommended this place: http://www.sawbird.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm and specifically their #3 Double Tooth Reverse (20 TPI, 8 Reverse Teeth).  I've found them to very good for everything I've cut.  I wish I had found these before I started my Licorne.

[Richard Griffith]

Hey Glenn, Mark's post about Greg's reference is excellent-there are many blade choices.  The best advice I can add is to try different blades for each job.  There are variables that make a definitive answer difficult: these include the saw speed, the feed rate, the tooth geometry, the hardness of the material.  After you discover the best combination, make a note of you blade selection, stock thickness and type of wood so you can duplicate it without additional experimenting on future jobs.

 

As for scroll saw features, try to get a saw that has a variable speed selector (a built in rheostat), a tilting table both left and right, and a decent blade change device (if the blade changing system is poor, you will tend to avoid changing blades).  All other features are secondary to these three (I am targeting us model ship builders with these comments). 

 

Have fun and let us know your progress.                     Duffer

[glbarlow]

Mark,

 

Thank you, this is the info I was looking for.  There are so many different sizes and types of blades it's hard to know where to start. As I said in the original post, I'll be cutting frames from boxwood as the first job (although I'll practice on less expensive scrap wood first of course).  I have learned what blade works best for my Byrnes saw, I don't want to waste a lot of wood or time figuring out what is best for a scroll saw.  

 

There are a lot of experienced scroll saw users on this forum and I want to take advantage of their knowledge. I had gone to the sawbirds page earlier, it lists 10 different types each in 3-10 different sizes, although they have a recommended page I was thinking all modeler's do many much the same thing - cutting .5 - 5mm wood into various ship parts, there must be at least a short list of type and size to use that prevents splintering, cuts the wood in small intricate shapes, and minimizes waste. 

Edited September 9, 2013 by Glenn

[rafterrat_2005]

Has anyone used a table saw from harbor freight? Can I use a paneling blade? Or other type of electric tools?

[reklein]

Where jig saw blades are concerned, there are quite a few manufacturers of blades but the most available ,in the US any way, is probably Olson. In the hobby shops that are still left one can find Zona brand also. A rule of thumb is to choose a blade that can put three teeth on the thickness of material being cut. So for thin metal you probably want 48 -56 TPI. (Teeth Per Inch) for thicker material, 1/4", you may want say 12 TPI skip tooth blades. These will allow the saw to clear out the sawdust as you move along. Also for thicker material you may want reverse tooth blades for quicker cutting. These blades cut on oth the up and down stroke to speed cutting.       BILL

[captainbob]

The courser the blade the faster the cut, but a course blade on thin wood will splinter it instead of cut.   As bill said, "A rule of thumb is to choose a blade that can put three teeth on the thickness of material being cut."  That's what I've always heard also. 

 

Bob