SpencerC Posted September 20, 2013 Share #1 Posted September 20, 2013 So I'm thinking about diluting some copper paint in cyanoacrylate the water thin kind, so that when I glue the copper plates down it will seep out the sides making it look welded/soldered. How should I do this? Should I use enamel? Acrylic? How much do I put in? Do I dilute it in water first or just dilute it in the glue? Any advice would help on what the best way to do this would be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegert Posted September 20, 2013 Share #2 Posted September 20, 2013 Spence--- This question should bring the glue wizards out in force! It sounds like a recipe for a mess to me..... I'm not a big fan of ACA anyway, and mixing paint into it sounds like some heinous, coagulating gelatinous scum. Further, copper plates on wooden ships were not soldered or braised , but rather nailed or screwed, overlapping each other a bit. This caused a whole set of galvanic corrosion problems which were solved by changing the fasteners to copper as well. These were the first real corrosion laboratories--- a fascinating topic in its own right---- starring my hero Sir Humphrey Davy...... another story. With my luck lately, you'll probably hear from a bunch of folk who do this all the time, and will call me a brainless fool, but I'm just not buying the idea. john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerC Posted September 20, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted September 20, 2013 Hmm. Interesting. Well mostly what I'm worried about is having little gaps in between the plates so does anyone know if this would even work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegert Posted September 20, 2013 Share #4 Posted September 20, 2013 Go to the planking and plating topic in the forum directory, and look at what the other crazies are doing. On most of their builds, they are either using Caldercraft or Amati commercial plates or using some variety of stained glass coppering material. The few tiny miniature degenerates like me have used copper shim stock, or even painted paper. But your gap question is only going to be answered by "don't make any damn gaps!!", I'm afraid. This work is not as hard as it seems, and is harder to explain than to do. The two Big Deals are to lay them in a proper lines, and to get the brickwork-like stagger pattern correct. There's a ton of good info here and at other sites---- search "coppering model ships" and you'll get a bunch of hits. THEN, ask our resident authorities any question you need, and they will tell you more than you ever wanted to know. You will soon be an old hand at this. john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafi Posted September 21, 2013 Share #5 Posted September 21, 2013 Why don´t you simply paint the wood underneath with copper paint before gluing the plates onto it? The mixing of CA and paint will not work imho. XXXDAn Quote To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/ See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/ Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits. http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Ensign Posted September 21, 2013 Share #6 Posted September 21, 2013 I'm with Daniel, don't go there, ca makes a mess of copper plates and needs to be removed from the surface asap to avoid marring the surface, particularly if you want the copper to take on a natural patina over time. Any residue will show up. B.E. Quote Current Build: HMS Indefatigable-1794-by-blue-ensign-vanguard-models-164-scale Medway-longboat-1742-by-blue-ensign-½”-scale Completed builds: HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign. 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models Queen-Anne-Royal-Barge-circa-1700-by-Blue-Ensign Fifie fishing boat Lady Eleanor Muirneag-1903-–-a-scottish-zulu-fishing-boat-164-scale-based-on-the-vanguard-models-zulu-kit/ HM Cutter Alert 1777 HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 18th-century-English-longboat-by-Blue-Ensign-ms-148-scale/ finished 18thc English Pinnace by Blue Ensign-Model-Shipways-1:24 scale/ finished HMS-Pegasus-by-Blue-Ensign-finished-Victory-Models-1:64-scale/ Heller Seventy-four 1:150 scale - modified Le Superbe/Le Glorieux kit after Boudriot, waterline setting with sails. The schooner Pickle, Jotika pob kit 1:64 scale, my interpretation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted September 21, 2013 Share #7 Posted September 21, 2013 Acrylic will cause problems with CA as its water based and will react. Futhermore thin CA is really not suited to bonding plates to to the hull,I used a Medium viscosity which works well but even thats not totally foolproof. I never had a problem with gaps coppering my Snake - biggest problem was the odd plate just refused to stay in place and took a couple of tries on the keel for those I used a Unibond Powergrip adhesive , not a water based or contact. Norman Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
src Posted September 21, 2013 Share #8 Posted September 21, 2013 Hmmm Interesting idea. Like the others it sounds like a recipe for disaster but then I am not a real big fan of CA myself; I use it but very sparingly. There are a couple of chemists here, if they dont respond here in a couple of days try searching the user names, at least one of them has chemist in his name. Give him a PM, I have not interacted with him but he seems like a very friendly decent person. Quote Current Build Constructo Enterprise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted September 22, 2013 Share #9 Posted September 22, 2013 CA is widely recommended by kit manufacturers such as Caldercraft but not thin - low visosity. Never mix CA with water based products it just doesnt work as I said above. Norman Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PierreJean Posted September 22, 2013 Share #10 Posted September 22, 2013 Sorry but this sounds really weird - I've mixed cyano glue with paint as an experiment and it turned out as a failure. Try it yourself and let us know - you might have better results! Pierre! Quote Just Started: Golden Hind scratch build Previous - Scratch Built :Mayflower HMS Myrmidon Kit: HMB Endeavour +/- 20 RC Boats:Tugs,Yachts, Skimmers 4 Miniature Freestyle Sailing Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerC Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted September 22, 2013 Well I trust your guys' opinions. Looks like this is one of my worser ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted September 22, 2013 Share #12 Posted September 22, 2013 Water will cause CA to instantly cure and it will turn right in the process. Since acrylics are water based, I'll leave the result to the imagination. I'm not a chemist, just someone who's screwed up more than once. dafi 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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