Cutty Sark by omarcs - Scientific Models - scale 1:140 approx

[omarcs]

Some pictures of port hole cut from styrene and making eyebolts from bell wire. I made 40 some eyebolts for deck. I will need to make more for masts.

[omarcs]

Merry Christmas!

 

I want to thank all of you for a year of learning and encouragement. My ship is better because of your willingness to share your successes and your road to success. Seeing what it takes to make a really good model encouraged me to step up and attempt and succeed in making a model that is much better than I thought I was capable.

 

Omar

[NenadM]

Your Cutty is going to be a very nice model with many details. Wellcome to microscopic works !

 

Happy hollidays and best wishes

 

Nenad

[omarcs]

Not much work lately. More eye bolts - too easy to do, so many to make. I did get the billboard and port holes on starboard side. Also pulled cat whiskers and cut new ones from steel rod rather that pins that plans suggested in plans.

 

One of the things seldom mentioned is the sequence of putting items on the hull. That aspect stalls me - what to work on now, what can I attach and not have to remove to attach something that is blocked. sigh  .

 

Also been working on my 1967 Plymouth Barracuda. It too has parts to replace because they are broken or too rusted to salvage, Things to take apart, repair, reassemble, and stuff to buy to move forward.

 

Working on the Cutty Sark has encouraged me in working on my other hobbies, Barracuda and model trains. If I can make a part for CS I certainly make parts for car and trains.

[omarcs]

I needed to paint my eyebolts before installing them. I decided to count them since I had to handle each one - I have 113. Guess that should hold me for  a while.

 

Next is to install the deck ones. I am using the Revell plans for location. The other plans I have been using were not clear enough to use. No two agreed. Oh, wait, that is expected, isn't it.

[omarcs]

photos of eyebolts installed. I had not considered that the eye bolts would not get any bigger when I went to install them. One pointy tweezers to pick them up and a flat one to hold while inserting in hole. Certainly more likely to hold than glue to top of deck. 

[omarcs]

 I examined the Campbell plans and made a list of things that need to be done to finish deck. Only 18 line items.  

[NenadM]

Only 18 ?

[omarcs]

then I found my second list and now I have 35. I have decided to do stern pin rails next.

[omarcs]

I have decided to install the grate by the wheel housing next. The kit comes with an oversize decal, which just won't do.

 

I cannot tell from the plans if the grate is flush with the deck. Guess I will need to go hunting examples. Also, Campbell shows a hatch on the starboard side which I can find no where else. I think it will be harder to figure out, folks don't take many photos of the deck.

 

Omar

[omarcs]

found photos of hatch and grating. Grating should be interesting at 1:150. An observation, not whining.

 

I used up my time I had set aside this evening for the knightshead  looking for information on the bowsprit. I have discovered the Scientific plans had me build a bowsprit jiboom that are maybe 90% accurate. But, this is not bad since it will allow me to securely anchor the assembly.

 

and I still have some time for the knightshead.

 

Omar 

[omarcs]

so much for the grate for the present.

 

I decided to add the knightshead, which is coming along okay. But in the process I discovered that my bowsprit was wrong. I did a little cutting to get it better, but I have decided I would never be able to make it secure enough. Now I have a dowel chucked in my trusty drill. But with several grades of sandpaper the dowel is tapering nicely. Now I will be able to add chains around bowsprit, and make all the little pieces to hold the jib boom plus insert the dowel into the hull securely.

 

Pictures are being taken and will be posted.

 

Omar

[omarcs]

Photos

 

The incorrect bowsprit. Trial versions of knightshead. New versions of bowsprit. Drilling for new bowsprit. looks like bowsprit will work. Knighthead is going to take new thinking. I found a photo that shows lots of metal. Perhaps that is what I should use too. I do have some very thin aluminum.

[philo426]

Man you trashed the stem!You have to be careful.I know because I did the same thing on my Scientific Sark and had to carve a whole new stem that connects to the keel!

[NenadM]

Ouch ! I am very sorry you crashed a bow.

But devil is not black as it seems. It is oportunity to make bow profile as on C-plans (slightly different curvature)

 

See if you are interested my correction

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-started-as-tehnodidakta-and-scratched-by-campbells-plans/page-28#entry146850

Remaking my own bowsprit, I passed the same hard way working with hard artillery, and that what happened to you was my fear I was very affraid to be happened. I was lucky

But, it can be fixed much easier than you think !

Knighthead also bothered me a lot, and I decided to make it wider, and to mount together with base of bowsprit only, not with whole bowsprit structure. Use strong glue,  and after glue dry, cut off excess of material, and line it with outside bullwark line and rail of foredeck. Tricky, but it can be done. Putty and paint will make it ok. It will be easy to mount another part of bowsprit structure later. If you are interested, you can see in my thread, section:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-started-as-tehnodidakta-and-scratched-by-campbells-plans/page-95#entry291548

 

One important thing I realized : On bowsprit, there is a place where many little forces of tightened ropes will collect after rigging. Think about this on time to avoid another crash, and make bowsprit and all parts of bowsprit strong enough

Good work so far

Edited May 29, 2015 by Nenad

[omarcs]

The lack of strength was a concern. As you say, an opportunity to make strong enough replacements. I now know why model ships have so little balsa - it has very little strength.

 

Every day is an adventure

 

Thanks for the comments and references.

 

Omar 

[keelhauled]

Hi Omar,

Ship is looking great!!  There are many of us that have done drastic rebuilds to parts of our ship.

Make sure that your stem and its connection to the frames is strong.  As Nenad said, the standing rigging will all tie back to these structural pieces.  Stay away from basa for ship models; it doesn't have the strength.

 

Marc

Edited June 10, 2015 by keelhauled

[omarcs]

working on new stem. I am using 3 ply plywood. I had not noticed the shape of original was so wrong.  I need to do some more shape correction. I worked on ship and stem to make a good glue surface. put on a coat of paint. knighthead and bowsprit seem to be working together as I dry fit with stem.

 

was not as hard as I thought it might be. used computer to get plans same size as old part, then traced correct shape to paper, transferred to plywood, etc.

 

did a lot of looking at build logs. no one actually records adding stem, it seems. in one set of pictures there is no stem, then it is there and something else is being built. Magic happens. I decided since there were no pictures it could not be that hard.

 

Omar

[omarcs]

Picture time.

 

before starting work on new stem I worked on bow sprit and knightshead. no worry about breaking anything

I used Campbell plans for pattern. cut, filed and drilled to get shape and to add slot for chains around bowsprit and stem.  Painted surfaces that were not going to be glued. Used wood glue, and made sure the matting surfaces were nice and flat.

 

What are the names for the chains that go around the bowsprit and the slot in the stem? I can't read the plans.

 

The result is something much more sturdy. Now to blend in with hull.

 

 

[baskerbosse]

Nice repair!

 

-The word you are looking for is "Gammoning" I believe..

 

 

 

/Peter

[historyguysteve]

Peter is correct, the plans are indicating 'gammoning' Also they are not chain, they should be tarred (black or very dark brown) rope. 

 Also another side note, you probably already know this, The Cutty Sark was composite build - some structural elements were wood others iron. I am almost certain that the bowsprit stump was iron, use the strongest stuff you can employ for the bowsprit and jib boom, you don't want a breakage at the last moment when all of the rigging is done and you're just about to put her on the display shelf, ask me how I know. :)

   Great job - these scientific models are inexpensive, a great display size and fairly accurate, I'm surprised they are not more popular on MSW.

 steve

[omarcs]

Keel is repaired. Now to continue with working on bowsprit and jibboom. I have been researching how the two are connected. I think I have it figured out. Now to determine how to do it at scale. Think some thin brass/copper is in order to cut straps to go around the two. will try to solder together in order to get strength and still accomplish space between bowsprit and jib boom.

 

photos will follow

[NenadM]

Go on, man, where are the pictures?

 

I can not wait !!!

Edited October 6, 2015 by Nenad

[baskerbosse]

I think when it comes to the gammoning, usually they are indeed rope, however, I believe Campbell has this one right and for the Cutty Sark, the gammoning is actually chain.

 

Thanks,

Peter

[samson]

Hi Omar

 

Dibly respekt for your woark on your fine model.  in 1:140  her (Les is more ) wirly makes cens .

 

Jens

[omarcs]

_{I finally realized that I am stuck because I am uncertain if the direction I am going is anywhere correct. I am asking for second opinions about the bow. I had thought to use copper and but could not find thin enough. What you see is aluminum flashing. It is as thick as the lines on the ruler. It glues on firmly using canopy cement from model airplanes. I will wrap it around bowsprit and then jib boom for strength and then adjust cosmetically.}

 

_{Now to the hold up. The knighthead and bowsprit I think are working out okay. The jib boom bothers me. I find it "big". I am wondering if it needs more tapper and also to have a smaller diameter.}

 

_{Your observation and thought are greatly appreciated. When I did computer programs for a living I sometimes tried to make code work that I finally just threw away and rewrote the code correctly. I feel this might be what is going on here.}

Edited January 17, 2016 by Omar CS

[samson]

Hi  Omar

I'm glad to see it's not just me working in thin aluminum

Very nice work

[omarcs]

I have not been doing much with ship except feeling guilty. But I have completed some model train projects,  and continue to work on my 1967 Barracuda restoration.

 

The photos are of work last done. Normal angst of is it good enough, or should I try again. I did decide I needed to install a bunch of eye rings thanks to Nenad's drawings. That started the question of whether the eyes I have made are small enough. I found the Artistic Wire in a discount store and tried and liked it. The photo of the wire spool has one of my first eyes and below it is an eye made with smaller wire and a needle to size hole. The photo with scale compares the art wire to wire from a transformer that used to reside in my microwave until the push buttons failed. I don't think I need to look for anything smaller. With the 3 gauges I think I am set. The transformer wire should be perfect for eyes on masts and yards.

[omarcs]

I started making eyebolts from the finest wire. Harder to do than thicker wire. I am not soldering them, just a tight twist. I will be gluing them into a hole so I am hoping the glue will suffice. The outside dimension of the loop is 1mm.

[NenadM]

A thiny drop of CA on a shaprened toothpick applied in a hole will be just fine. Keep on good work