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The downside of solder is the lead.  It will deteriorate with time.

 

Yea, I can attest to that.  I have a AL Morgan Whale boat that I built some 20-25 years ago. All the harpoons, cutting knives, oar locks are made from some type of soft white metal (probably lead based bismuth or something) - all have become brittle, cracked and broke under their own weight. I've tried gluing them together with CA but another section will break off in time.

Elijah, donrobinson, Canute and 1 other like this

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I guess I'll need to keep an eye on it. I'll let you know in 25 years. The solder is 60 / 40 Tin / Lead. I'm no chemist, but that may lengthen its' lifespan. Finding a lead free solder with a rosin core may work just as well as the core makes it more malleable and easier to flatten. I just hate using brass flat stock due to its' brittleness. One bend is all you get on that thin stuff.

 

I'll just need to post a note in front saying ' Please don't suck on the boat ' :)

 

I do clean the rollers with a paper towel when done rolling.

Edited by ColoradoDave

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A good source of fine absolutely straight wire (if rather short pieces will work) is a wire brush.  The wire is stiff but not so stiff as music wire and can be bent with needle nose pliers to a rather sharp bend. Good for railings, some jackstays, and other small fixtures.

 

To get the wire out of the brush, you'll probably have to cut the brush; the wires are usually anchored in their holes with staples.

 

Another source of straight wire, but softer and somewhat larger in diameter, is Christmas tree ornament hangers.  They come in several diameters and colors.

 

 

Chazz

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One of our members needed whip antennas for a destroyer model.  His son had left his drum set behind when he moved out.  The wire brushes from the drums provided long straight wire that wouldn't bend easily.

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Just a thought ...

Would there ever be any benefit in saving these anti-damp things and building them into a model ship's hull?

 

BHC_2210.JPG

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Brian,

 

They're really only a temporary type of product used during storing or shipping.  The problem I can see is getting them out to bake any collected humidity which should be done periodically.  Maybe hidden discretely in a display case might be better.   I'm also not sure if they would draw the moisture out of the wood and cause premature aging.    

davyboy, John Allen, Canute and 2 others like this

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21 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Brian,

 

They're really only a temporary type of product used during storing or shipping.  The problem I can see is getting them out to bake any collected humidity which should be done periodically.  Maybe hidden discretely in a display case might be better.   I'm also not sure if they would draw the moisture out of the wood and cause premature aging.    

Perhaps better to put a dehumidifier in the room with your models, if you're lucky enough to be able to have them all in one place.  If you're in a constant rainy region, however, that might not be helpful.

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Let's see if we can get this thread back on track ...

 

CHALK

Perhaps the best method of recreating small, carved details can be found in XKen’s USS Constitution build log. Wood carving is a skill-set that can take years to master. One slip-up can mean having to re-do hours of work. But Ken has found an easier way.

XKen5.jpg.9d4cb09b6004db1620dc837cec947ee8.jpg

 

Here, he shows us how to use a piece of ordinary black-board chalk to carve the detail ends for his catheads. With Ken’s permission, I have lifted a few pictures from his log. I’m sure that his explanations speak for themselves …

XKen1.jpg.d840926460ce966d23cf9ce2bd0a6f53.jpg

 

XKen2.jpg.97656cc46c925e2829dcf9311ad26dc1.jpg

 

XKen3.jpg.b307a5c850591ababab7373fe77bbe6d.jpg

 

And here's the final result, in position on Ken's Constitution build.

XKen4.jpg.1423b581643e3521c68ac3ba966516f9.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by CaptainSteve
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SHOELACES

Browsing some of the logs that I follow recently, and I stumbled upon this idea by one of my favourite USS Constitution builders.

Tom4.jpg.150c8fc58d925497d6b4110dc3d2149b.jpg

 

Thanks to Tom (UsedToSail) for this idea to reproduce more realistic slings for the boats on his build.

Over to Tom …

“I have been doing some thinking about how to stack the two cutters on the waist rails. The plans show only the large cutter with cradles underneath and strong backs over the tops to hold it down. I could use the same method and use cradles on the small cutter to sit on the strong backs, but I thought they might stick up too high. In the AOS book, they show the small cutter inside the large cutter, with fenders between them. I liked this method better, but was struggling how to make fenders until one day, as I was tying my shoes, it hit me to try pieces of shoe laces. I bought some white oval laces and after cutting the pieces, I browned them using brown shoe polish. I was quite happy with the look.”

 

Tom says that he first tried this with round laces, but it didn't look as good:

Tom3.jpg.9c93af1f09084d38424f15eebd10ab88.jpg

 

Better success was had using a flatter lace …

Tom.JPG.9356b3c38f8c174184177aef5aa0962c.JPG

 

And a later pic from Tom’s build, showing the boats positioned on-deck …

Tom1.jpg.ae1aacd7bd5bbcaeb3efd91bf24726ba.jpg

 

 

Edited by CaptainSteve
mtaylor, Elijah, Canute and 2 others like this

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DRINK CAN RING-PULLS

After the above entries, taken from USS Constitution builds that I follow on MSW, this one comes from my own build.  I had noticed some iron-works marked on the plans. As this hull will eventually be copper-plated, I wanted to replicate these hull braces as an added detail.

Steve1.jpg.9c3f63bd57e3cd9cb6a484508e6f7155.jpg

 

To my eye, the horseshoe-shaped front brace looked a lot like a drink can ring-pull …

Steve2.jpg.cc77ad7d69a5da97a1520567edeaed26.jpg

… so I salvaged a few for a trial. Holes were drilled to simulate the bolt-heads. The ring-pull ends were trimmed off.

 

Steve3.jpg.5b946616ba9aa0fb3cd9be11264b08d8.jpg

… shaping the bow hull-brace around a pencil-tip.

 

Steve4.jpg.3a8515fdc7ead7da76b39d5ec615a0a0.jpg

Braces for the stern were cut from the rim of the drink can, annealed and straightened.

 

Steve8.jpg.68435c600288025d88f44ee19bd0252f.jpg

… grooving out a seat for the stern braces.

 

Steve7.jpg.f4ea18f0d5712eedce26919aa5af074f.jpg

The horseshoe-shaped bow brace fitted into position ...

 

Steve9.jpg.72412039b1e99e886165703dacefb917.jpg

…. and the stern braces also placed. The surface of the braces sits slightly proud of the keel.

 

Steve5.jpg.aea7ad6dbf019d9dc8330706f1131609.jpg

 

Since I am still a long way from planking and copper-plating my hull, a test was done to see how the braces would appear, once plated …

Steve6.jpg.9a58112ff460ffac696bbabb24504120.jpg

... NOTE TO SELF: Be more careful when coppering-over the holes.

 

 

Edited by CaptainSteve
Update

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