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Grants Triton - FINISHED


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Great as always and I like the mini-tool for holding the blocks steady while you rig them. It's these little things that can make a frustrating job that little bit easier..

 

Joss

...

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Great work as always. Very nice way of doing the blocks. Gotta remember that!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48  Duchess of Kingston

 

Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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The breech rope is made up of 3 x 3 thread ropes from the DMC Cordonnet size 100 thread, I tried 3 x 2 thread ropes, but it looked a little under sized. The loop around the cascabel is made with a simulated cut splice. The splice ends were touched up with some dilute pva glue, and slight taper cut on them. One end was tied on and whipping wrapped around it and tied off. A dab of dilute glue was used, then the end trimmed.

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The barrel is held by a drill bit the same size as the cannon bore. The breech rope is siezed as close to the cascabel as possible, a bit of dilute glue applied which is allowed to dry before continuing. I didn't want the siezing to slip whilst finishing the whipping. 

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The job so far. Tieing the ring bolts on will be the next task.

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Regards,

Grant.

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Your cordage looks very good and the colour you arrived at I really like too. I also think your breeching rope around the cascabel and your seized splice looks very good also.

 

I’m wondering if you will seize the other end of the breeching ropes to their ring bolts before installing? I lose track of the very small size when looking at the photographs but when realizing just how small you’re working with it becomes even more impressive.

 

All top drawer Grant.

Edited by Paddy

 

1st Year Apprentice :mellow:

A new member of the NRG as of 8/28/13

 

Work in Progress -

 

 Triton 28 Gun Frigate Cross Section 

 

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Paddy, 42Rocker and Pete

thanks, I appreciate the interest and comments.

Paddy, I spent some time today attaching the ring bolts to the breech ropes according to a diagram from "Historic Ship Models" By Monfeld.

The eye bolt was held in a hole drilled into a block clamped to the table. At this point I would like to acknowledge the material assistance provided by the nice lady in the 'sail makers' shop, couldn't have done it without you. All the siezings were knotted, glued  and allowed to set as before, prior to wrapping them around the rope. One thing to note, always keep the end of the thread to be whipped around the rope on the side of the knot in the direction of whip, that way you will not have to cross over the thread to start the whipping. It will sit better  this way.This may sound like gibberish, but you will see what I mean when doing it. The rest is self explanatory.

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Grant.

Edited by Boccherini
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Excellent Grant. Thanks very much for your continuing photos and notes. I have Mondfeld’s “Historic Ship Models” open to the Armament section here at the work station now. Really a great reference work I think. Your knots and seizing look splendid.

 

BTW, a double tot of Nelson’s Blood to the lady of the ‘Sail Makers Shop’.

 

:dancetl6:

Edited by Paddy

 

1st Year Apprentice :mellow:

A new member of the NRG as of 8/28/13

 

Work in Progress -

 

 Triton 28 Gun Frigate Cross Section 

 

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The rigged guns areinstalled temporarily, I needed to make sure everything fits. They will be removed and replaced at the end of the project. To ensure the guns don't get loose, I have 0.5mm copper wire pins in two of the trucks on each gun that fit into holes drilled in the deck. These will be permanently attached with epoxy at the finish.

On an unrelated  note, my son was examining the ropewalk yesterday (he helped with the electrical side of it),  admiring the finished rope, and wanted to know where it was going. It is the first time he's seen the cross section (it's always been under a cloth dust cover), he was suitably impressed. Which is good, as he is the ultimate owner, though he doesn't know it yet. At the current rate of progress, it will be a Christmas present.

 

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Regards,

Grant.

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Grant:

The guns looks very good. I like the eye splice around the cascabel. Very neatly done.

 

I also pin my gun trucks in position, although I use bamboo pegs. Same idea though. Good job.

 

Russ

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Very nicely done on the guns and breechings, Grant. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen. Russ, I would've used bamboo dowels, but there are none around at present and I'm too lazy to make any. 

I decided to try a different method to construct the gangway brackets, cutting the pieces from a copper sheet. The prototype seems to have worked out ok, just needs a bit of tweeking. The pattern for the brackets is a modified version of a diagram from TFFM vol 2. A template was made from thin sheet metal which allowed the outline to be scratched into the copper. This was cut from the sheet with a jewellers saw and filed down to the final shape. The two parts were then silver soldered together. The copper sheet came from a piece of 25mm (1") copper tube that was cut, annealed, then opened out and hammered flat between a wood block and a steel plate. To give you an idea of the size, the gap in the bracket for the skid beam is 4mm ( about 0.15" I think). The copper sheet is about 1.2mm thick.

 

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Grant.

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Nice metal work, Grant. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Grant:

Your bracket is very close to the one we used in the plans. Ours was patterned after those found on a model in NMM.

 

Very nice work.

 

Russ

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I appreciate the assesments and comments gents.

Bob, working with wood scared the heck outta me when I first started because I'd been working with copper and brass since my teens. Don't be defined by what you perceive are your (current) limitations. The Triton x section is a good place to start learning, just enough parts to get a feel for the work. I remember a comment by Harold Underhill that is a great encouragement ..... he believed that anyone is capable of building a good model if they take care with the work and be patient (paraphrased).

If anyone should decide to try this method, the following sequence may be helpful. The holes drilled in the outline allowed me to twist the saw blade around corners without breaking it, I learned this quite quickly. By planning the cuts, you can keep the bracket firmly clamped to your bench whilst cutting and filing. After the last cut, the bracket was placed in a small vice and the top filed down to the line. The top arm is still a couple of mm long (better a little too much than too little), this will be trimmed off later.

 

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Grant.

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