Jump to content

Modifying a kit planking scheme


Recommended Posts

I've started work on the Artesania Latina  "Scottish Maid" and have nearly got the frames etc ready for planking. Looking through the tutorials on this site I find very different planking methods from that given by AL. You can see the results of their instructions in several kit build logs on this site or clearly in this pic

http://www.shipsofscale.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=2581&sid=01a8caf0a5f9c49923eb132fe3fc17c7

Two questions -

Is the planking structure this gives authentic, or as I suspect, a compromise made by the manufacturer to make construction easier and allow the use of the straight 5mm strips provided?

If so, is it feasible for me to plank the first layer using the simplified method and then try for something more authentic using  2nd layer veneers? The 2nd layers in the kit are 5 x 0.6mm. I presume that if I change the method I'll need to buy different material. The ship is a 1:50 with a hull length of around 70ft- she has fine lines which should help planking, I'd guess. Any suggestions as to what material I would need to buy?

Thanks for any help

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome to the forum.In answer to your question yes.The option I always take is to apply first planking so it follows its natural run and disregard the 'rules'The second layer i apply to follow the rules of planking in an authentic manner.This has two benefits,you can use the kits first planking and second because the planking runs are very different,it makes for a stronger hull.

 

Kind Regards Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. You are correct, the planking as depicted in that picture is a compromise to make construction easier. Real planks are not shaped like triangles, nor do they terminate as sharp points. Take a look at some of the other build logs, especially the scratch built logs to see how planks are tapered.

 

2. You can make a complete dogs breakfast of the first layer of planking if you want, and then use a lot of woodfiller and sand it like crazy. That's what I did with my first kit! The second layer will hide all your sins. But really, you should look at your first layer as a practice run for your second layer. Try as best as you can to follow good practice - you will learn heaps.

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are no rules laid down for the width or length of hull planks on British merchant ships - only the thickness and the spacing of the plank butts.  In practice, a plank width averaging about 8 inches would be OK - this would be about 4mm at your scale.  Remember that the planks on a ship are not parallel sided, but vary considerably with the shape of the hull.  The widest planks will normally be found at the stern and the narrowest at the bow.  With an average 4mm wide plank you should aim for no more than about 6mm for the widest planking and narrowing to no less than about 2mm.  The average plank length would be no more than 25 to 30 feet in real practice, which would equate to roughly 150 to 180 mm on you model.  When planking the 'shift of butts', you should try and plan for a minimum plank length of about 6 feet, or about 36mm on the model.

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would work around a 6mm plank width as a basis.If you plan on 'spiling' you can get away with 7mm at the stern to avoid stealers,but you may find that a lot of the planks end up less than 6mm apart from amidships.I would also recommend you go for 1mm  or 1.5mm thick planking for the second planking giving you a bit to go at with sanding.I am personally not keen on the 0.5mm stuff.Even if you don't sand through it,some areas can end up thin and you can see the first planking through it when you apply a finish.

 

Kind Regards Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. You are correct, the planking as depicted in that picture is a compromise to make construction easier. Real planks are not shaped like triangles, nor do they terminate as sharp points.

Actually sometimes the real planks end like a sharp points. I was really surprised when I saw how Vasa planked :)

Take a look on the bottom part

post-5430-0-58339800-1388609574_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume we are talking about the plank under the bottom wale.The narrow piece under the wale I think is fitted over the planking,so the plank that looks pointed runs under this into the rabbet.It does then have a square end.I may be wrong, without going to the museum and prising it apart I can't be sure :D  :D  :D

Kind Regards Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found it, Nazgul made a great photo, copy from his buildlog:

post-5430-0-29336500-1388620408_thumb.jpg

There are some stealer planks right on a head (bow) of the hull.

It is still not clear enough, because its really dark under Vasa. Need a strong flashlight to make a clear photo. Maybe you can use some photoshop magic there. But it is quite visible when you see it in reality.

Edited by Mike Y
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...