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HMS Warrior by StuartC - Billing Boats - 1:100 - started 1/1/2014


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Cheers for the encouragement gents.  I've been really bogged down with the chain plates. I thought they were all secure hmmmmm....they all sprang. So I've spent the last couple of what seems like years, drilling and pinning them back in place. Lesson learned. Back to the deck fittings  :)

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Hi - just started on my own Warrior, and this is my first post - I've built a Thames barge, Louise, King of the Mississippi, Bremen, Renown gunboat and various smaller models without help, but this time I think I need rather more expertise than I possess so I'm very grateful for all the tips. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with the model - it just seems to be a big version of a small kit, lacking a lot of detail - but we'll see how it ends up.

 

So far I've built the frame, planked the visible bits of the main deck using leftovers from the plank drawer and started on the sides, but now I've got stuck. 

 

I note you've armed your model: I've made up one side of gunport inners and a bunch of identical muzzles (as you say, slightly incorrect but nicer to look at) but can't work out from drawings or photos how much of the muzzle would protrude beyond the hull side when the guns were run out. Can you help with this detail? The way I'm doing the interior I can't start the the rest of the hull until I've done the gunports.

 

Many thanks for your help

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Hi - just started on my own Warrior, and this is my first post - I've built a Thames barge, Louise, King of the Mississippi, Bremen, Renown gunboat and various smaller models without help, but this time I think I need rather more expertise than I possess so I'm very grateful for all the tips. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with the model - it just seems to be a big version of a small kit, lacking a lot of detail - but we'll see how it ends up.

 

So far I've built the frame, planked the visible bits of the main deck using leftovers from the plank drawer and started on the sides, but now I've got stuck. 

 

I note you've armed your model: I've made up one side of gunport inners and a bunch of identical muzzles (as you say, slightly incorrect but nicer to look at) but can't work out from drawings or photos how much of the muzzle would protrude beyond the hull side when the guns were run out. Can you help with this detail? The way I'm doing the interior I can't start the the rest of the hull until I've done the gunports.

 

Many thanks for your help

Hi jbwok,

I based the protrusion of the muzzles on some photographs taken by someone who had visited Portsmouth Dockyard, and found a very early model of the Warrior in the museum . They also sent me a whole pile of pictures of the actual ship, both of which I have found to be extremely useful.

If you want, I will forward them on to you, or I could just post the pictures of the museum model here. 

As far as the model is concerned there isn't a lot of detail that could be added. One thing that was suggested would be to simulate the plating, but I personally didn't do that, as from any distance it just wouldn't be visible, I'm finding that most things added to the hull once painted black just seem to disappear anyway.

Having said that I really like the lines she has, but it is never going to be as detailed/busy as the Victory or any other model of that ilk.

If there is anything I can help with let me know, but as this is only my third model I don't have the vast experience of quite a few of the members who post on here.

Try starting a build log, as you can see from reading them, this crew are a really friendly bunch and will give you any pointers they can.

Cheers,

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart - thanks for getting back to me; I'd be really pleased to get a couple of photos of the model and exterior shots of the gunports. As I'm new to all this I'm not sure how you can get them to me? 

 

As for a build log, although I'm fairly pleased with the models I've built I'd hate anyone to see how much filler was needed to get that finish or to find out why a ship was on display that way round (it tends to be to hide the disaster on the other side!). Perhaps when I've got a bit further along, or at least hidden the botch where I couldn't get the keel to fit properly! 

 

I very much see your point about the detail, but I do think they could have provided a solution to the empty gunports (I've made 3mm deep boxes so the gun barrels start from well inside) and provided slightly more detailed instructions. I also thought the hull would be double skinned, which has in the past been my saviour when it comes to the final appearance of a model.

 

Oh well: I have a very long mantelpiece waiting for the arrival of the Warrior, so I should be getting on with it. I just hope it ends up half as good as yours!

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Hi Stuart - thanks for getting back to me; I'd be really pleased to get a couple of photos of the model and exterior shots of the gunports. As I'm new to all this I'm not sure how you can get them to me? 

 

As for a build log, although I'm fairly pleased with the models I've built I'd hate anyone to see how much filler was needed to get that finish or to find out why a ship was on display that way round (it tends to be to hide the disaster on the other side!). Perhaps when I've got a bit further along, or at least hidden the botch where I couldn't get the keel to fit properly! 

 

I very much see your point about the detail, but I do think they could have provided a solution to the empty gunports (I've made 3mm deep boxes so the gun barrels start from well inside) and provided slightly more detailed instructions. I also thought the hull would be double skinned, which has in the past been my saviour when it comes to the final appearance of a model.

 

Oh well: I have a very long mantelpiece waiting for the arrival of the Warrior, so I should be getting on with it. I just hope it ends up half as good as yours!

Hi jbwok,

If you like filler this is the model for you, the planking is purely a base. I filled and sanded for hours to get the finish I was after. If you look at a lot of the build logs with copper plated bottoms, they have a filler top coat to allow for a good finish. There is no shame in filler :)

 

I came to the same solution as yourself for the gun ports, I made back boxes about 8mm deep, which I attached prior to doing the planking. Here are a few pictures I was sent

post-751-0-62694300-1415390578_thumb.jpg

post-751-0-11782500-1415390580_thumb.jpg

post-751-0-19082900-1415390642_thumb.jpg

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Hi again - terrific pictures, many thanks. Very inspired and off to the garage, although if it's OK with you I'll be back for advice when I try to sort the planking around the stern, which looks very, very tricky...

 

All the best

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I am sorry to say that i could not find the photos I took of the gold medal winner from Manitowoc,  Needless to say your model is a gold medal winner unless the judges are blind.  I was surprised when two models showed up.  I placed them together so that people would see the difference scale meant to the size.  Both looked good.  

David B

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Hi Stuart - carving the prop, have spoken to the foundry. That said, if you still have the spare one of the two they did for you I'd be happy to buy it to use or to make the mould as I'm the worst carver of propellers in Central Scotland! Incidentally, I have bought the Seaforth and Conway books about the ship off Ebay, and would recommend them to any of your followers looking for information and extra detail.

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Hi Jbwok,

 

PM me your details, I've still got the rough second prop. As per the first one it will take a lot of filing and sanding, but it's worth it. I'll send it to you when I get chance, I'm off to Athens on business, but you should get it before too long

 

Regards,

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart - carving the prop, have spoken to the foundry. That said, if you still have the spare one of the two they did for you I'd be happy to buy it to use or to make the mould as I'm the worst carver of propellers in Central Scotland! Incidentally, I have bought the Seaforth and Conway books about the ship off Ebay, and would recommend them to any of your followers looking for information and extra detail.

Hi jbwok,

 

Got your PM. Thanks for the offer, but don't worry about it. It's packed up and should be on it's way this week as long as the admiral remembers to post it.

 

Cheers,

Stuart.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

 

Nearly a year gone (bar 3 days) since I started, unfortunately things have really slowed up recently on the build, as I've come off the employment scrap heap. Great being back at work, but it really gets in the way of my hobby.

 

Anyway this is the state of play now on the upper deck.

post-751-0-51383400-1419884932_thumb.jpg

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Hi Stuart, I have finally purchased the HMS Warrior but work and travel keeps getting in the way of me making a start. I did contact the Prop shop for a quote on a brass prop and they asked if it was a 70mm prop. I'm in Brazil right now and can't check. Do you think that's the right size? I may contact the suppliers of your prop if I can get them a carved sample.

Glyn

I'm taking the time before I start to consider putting a motor in it.

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Hi Stuart, I have finally purchased the HMS Warrior but work and travel keeps getting in the way of me making a start. I did contact the Prop shop for a quote on a brass prop and they asked if it was a 70mm prop. I'm in Brazil right now and can't check. Do you think that's the right size? I may contact the suppliers of your prop if I can get them a carved sample.

Glyn

I'm taking the time before I start to consider putting a motor in it.

Hi Glyn,

 

Yep, just measured and it is 70mm.  I looked at buying a pre-made prop and trying to adapt it. The problem I found was that the examples I found were:

 

1. Not cheap

2. Even at 75 or 80mm, there wasn't enough material to adapt.

3. Was never sure that the hub would fit correctly.

 

Taking all of this into account, I decided to get one cast from my assembled version. The two big advantages were that I got exactly the design and fit I wanted, and amazingly enough it worked out cheaper. Basically an all round winner.

 

I never looked motorising it, are you going for the modern solution or the whole steam plant?, either way I can't wait to see how you get on.

 

Cheers,

Stuart.

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Stuart,

Okay that sounds like good advice. When I get home I'll start on the prop to get one cast.

As for the motor; I think it will be straight forward electric as steam powered is a whole other issue. I will however try to fit a water vapour smoke generator. It will go a long way to explain why the sails are not set.

Glyn

Edited by captbearuk
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

There are times I amaze myself, if you look at this photo of one of the vents, and the fact that both parts are made of brass

and given the choice of joining them by either

 

a - tape

b - glue

c - solder

 

I managed in an addled state to pick b, yes b. Not only that I have stuck with choice b for an inconceivable length of time.   :o

 

Finally in the words of a famous man " I had a dream" that it would be great if you could join two bits of metal together using another type of metal that would melt at a low temperature. I decide to call this metal solder......wait a minute that's been around for ages. So can anyone please explain to me why the xxx I picked glue!!!

post-751-0-26175200-1425934249_thumb.jpg

post-751-0-85856300-1425934266_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I've been following this build silently for some time Stuart, but had to pop in just to say that she's looking magnificent. You're doing an excellent job and you're right about the addition of the funnels making such a difference to apparent progress. The brass work looks great too - does this get laid directly on top of the deck planking, or is it set into the deck somehow?

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Good to hear from you again! I'm really struggling to get a smooth hull despite four weeks of continuous sanding, filling, sanding, filling...! I've bought the red paint to encourage myself that I'm getting near the point I can use it, but it ain't happening until I can sort the area around the stern.

 

Incidentally, which black did you use? 

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I've been following this build silently for some time Stuart, but had to pop in just to say that she's looking magnificent. You're doing an excellent job and you're right about the addition of the funnels making such a difference to apparent progress. The brass work looks great too - does this get laid directly on top of the deck planking, or is it set into the deck somehow?

Hi Grant,

If you look at the actual Warrior the brass work is inlaid, and as much as I would like to do this I've had to take a bite of reality pie, and recognize the fact that the damage I could cause to the deck far outweighs any benefit I would get from trying to inlay the brass. In short it will be stuck on top. 

 

Good to hear from you again! I'm really struggling to get a smooth hull despite four weeks of continuous sanding, filling, sanding, filling...! I've bought the red paint to encourage myself that I'm getting near the point I can use it, but it ain't happening until I can sort the area around the stern.

 

Incidentally, which black did you use? 

 

Hi Jbwok,

 

Glad to hear your still sticking with it, daft question time, are you using a sanding block?. When I did this process I dealt with it as if it were a panel on a car, and yes it did take quite a while until I was happy, remember I am nearly 16 months into this.  If you could post a couple of pictures of the area your having issues with you will probably get some great tips.  All the paints I've used are the Billings ones listed for the model. So far I have used 2 pots of red, two of black and one white.  I chose not to use the yellow that they listed as I did not think it gave a good enough representation of the true colour.

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Hi - the sanding block has worked for all the flat and convex bits, but I'm struggling with the concave curves at the stern. I'll take your advice, though, and put up some photos on my pages and see what other people suggest.

 

I've never come across Billings paints (and my son works in a model shop!) - I'll probably just use a Tamiya gloss black.

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beautiful Fitting out Stuart,

 

its a great looking model

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Cheers Nils, I'll never say no to a bit of encouragement :)

 

 

I've been following this build silently for some time Stuart, but had to pop in just to say that she's looking magnificent. You're doing an excellent job and you're right about the addition of the funnels making such a difference to apparent progress. The brass work looks great too - does this get laid directly on top of the deck planking, or is it set into the deck somehow?

 

Grant I've just had an attack of hindsight, if I had planned this better I should have inlaid the brass at the time I was laying the deck, then any damage could have been easily repaired.

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Ah........ Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing? And always 20/20 vision! Though I'm not sure just how difficult that might have proved with all those curves. Never mind though Stuart, I'm sure that with the skill you've applied to date, it will look stunning regardless.

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Now you can't ask for a better reference photo than that Stuart! Looks like you were right all along!!! ;)

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the wheels must be indented,  so the races act much like a track.  predetermined moves......

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hi Stuart - according to the photos of the Warrior in the book by Davies and Dennison the races sit on top of the deck.

Thanks far clearing that up, as Grant says obviously I knew that I was just playing along  :rolleyes:

 

the wheels must be indented,  so the races act much like a track.  predetermined moves......

Hi Popeye, makes perfect sense when you think about it, blind luck wins out again  :)

 

I am very impressed of your modelbuilding skills... will follow with big interest.

If you saw the amount of times I glue my fingers together you might think otherwise, but nice to have you along  :cheers: 

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