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Bulkhead alignment question


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I have noticed on some builds that people used support beams between the bulkheads for more strength and I assume for alignment.  I am currently building Model Shipway's Bluenose and I was thinking about using 3/16th or 1/4 inch dowel for this purpose.  My thought was to clamp the bulkheads (aligned of course), drill a hole through the bulkheads and then with the bulkheads in place on the keel, slide the dowel through and CA glue it as I align each bulkhead.  This could be done before the PVA glue used to seat the bulkheads dried.  Of course the stem and stern bulkheads are too small for this but are more easily managed.  Comments please, thanks,

 

Poppi

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You would need to be VERY careful to get all of those bulkheads aligned EXACTLY so that the dowel would pass through them and they seat then correctly on the profile former. I would simply square each bulkhead up as you install it and then maybe add blocks in between the bulkheads. This would strengthen the hull without risky an all too likely misalignment of the bulkheads.

 

Russ

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I see what you mean, but it is not necessary. Just as russ has pointed out with aligning each bulkhead as you go. This would give you the best support and alignment you need. And a lot easier.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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Greetings Poppi,

 

I agree with Russ and S.Coleman. I think it is a waste of time and the results are by no means guaranteed. Plus, to Russ's point, the dowels could result in warping of the keel/former. Elsewhere on this forum, a guy built his keel and frames according to the plans that came with the model (Essex) , which called for dowels, and the keel warped. I use a simple build board with two wooden strips nailed to it to hold the keel for framing. Check the frames as you install them, making sure that they slide into the former with binding. Make sure they are square to the keel, level across the tops side to side, and spaced according to the drawings. Check your measurements multiple because she'll move on you even as the glue sets. Get your wales on, or a plank, as soon as the framing is done and you will be fine. I can't see spending hours installing supports between the frames - if you screw up you end up building in the problem you were trying to avoid.

 

wq3296

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Greetings Intar...

 

Yes I have seen that done. It seems to be a good idea because the blocks have good, sharp, corners and can stand up to clamping. I bet it works well. If the kids don't mind you can probably glue them in permanently so long as they don't conflict with anything else.

 

wq3296

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Another way to do it is to position the basswood blocks at the edges of the bulkheads so they overlap the edges. They would have to be sanded down to match the curve. The end result is not only a more stable frame but a better surface area for planking.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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Thanks everyone...   I appreciate the time to respond.  The bulkheads are all uniformly 1 1/2 inches apart.  They also fit firmly in place.  The plans show "an option" to placing support between bulkheads.  I noticed on some builds others have used them.  I think I will do without permanent supports.

 

Thanks again, Poppi

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