Gabek

HMS Triton (cross section) by Gabe K - 1:96

67 posts in this topic

Thanks, Jan!

As to your question...this model is 10.5 cm across the beam, 8.5 cm from keel to the top of the rail and just over 6 cm fore and aft.

(That's 4.5" x 3.25" x 2.5" for the metric-challenged!)

 

This is one concentrated headache generator!

 

LOL,

Gabe

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Thanks. Even smaller than I thought.

(I'm looking for something small as a next build, but this it perhaps slightly too small, especilly while I don't have precision powertools.

 

Jan

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Hey there, Jan.

Power tools, yes. Precision, not so much. I wreck a lot of wood before I get it right! Getting these planks to the correct size has been an exercise in frustration! Sand paper has been my most valuable tool!

 

Have you thought of a ship in a bottle? That's all hand tools. I tried one and I'm sure that I will be building more of them!

 

Regards,

Gabe

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Back at it?

Well, my poor Triton has been sitting idle for almost a year and collecting sawdust from my other addictive hobby - pen-turning. (A dark abyss, but rewarding for the fast results). A victim of this new passtime and the bathroom renovation from hell at my cottage, the deck clamps that I started laying out last January have not been touched in months. I did get a new Proxxon saw blade which I hope will fix my frustrations ripping planks.

 

So, here is the status on the deck clamps:post-3853-0-33313800-1482941960_thumb.jpeg

 

Using The Anatomy of a Ship: HMS Diana I planned out the anchor stock design and realized that, because of the angled cuts, it would be easy to make these run crooked. The lines on this paper are exactly the width I need for the clamps so I am able to lay out the planks nice and parallel, keeping them in place with pins as I go.

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Thanks for the reply, Christian, and everyone for the likes. Good to be back at the dry dock!

 

I found a small error in my layout of the deck clamps. While I was carefully reproducing what was in my main reference, AOTS: HMS Diana, I forgot that I was building the HMS Triton! When I was dry-fitting the planks it soon became obvious that there was a problem: the butt ends were hanging between frames! So, I had to rework the measurements and cut several new planks that now go from centre-to-centre on the frames. Good news was that I could still use parts of the first planks.

post-3853-0-44549100-1483077914_thumb.jpeg

 

Cutting the planks accurately was 'interesting'. After carefully marking out the shape I used a CMK resin blade.

post-3853-0-96318700-1483077678_thumb.jpeg

 

I glued up the pieces and clamped them into place. After a few hours I checked them out. I had to fix up a small mistake on one end...a small gap that still doesn't look perfect but I will try to fill it once the glue dries thoroughly. I don't normally say this, but it is something that will not likely be seen by anyone! (Shhhh...it will be our secret!

post-3853-0-47321300-1483077981_thumb.jpeg

post-3853-0-25309200-1483078010_thumb.jpeg

post-3853-0-23447500-1483078172_thumb.jpeg

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As usual, I continue to enjoy your log and the way you approach the build. It is very interesting how different model building can be from real ship building.

 

I came across the restoration of the Pilgrim Brixham sailing trawler, a Cutter-rigged ketch, at

 

http://pilgrimofbrixham.co.uk/history/

 

In the video of the build on that page it is quite clear that there's a contrast between the visible imperfections on the internal fittings, and the eventual smoothness of the external and visible finish.

 

Also, on the deck and hull planking, I really can't see the treenails in the still photos.

 

Of course, this is a modern restoration, but it made me think about the conventions of the modelling we do.

 

I suppose this is by way of saying that your build is still great even though you worry about the small imperfections such as gaps that have to be filled or colour mismatches fixed. In real life gaps were filled and paint did a great job.

 

Tony

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